luke_mcmahon85

...and the downside... the rust. The car will need a fair bit of work, but mechanically it's good, it will be driveable after you hunt down the short and replace the fusible link. I'm really keen to get rid of it soon, so open to offers. Cheers

Engine and brakes

More photos

Hi all I have the following for sale, pickup from Ormond, South Eastern Melbourne. L6 turbo exhaust manifold - $300 L6 EFI intake manifolds x 2, both slightly different - $100 each Ford XF throttle body with TPS - $75 Datsun throttle body that came with one of the intake manifolds, it is a strange two stage twin butterfly one - $30 I also think I have the fuel rail and injectors for an L28 (have to check the shed) - $50 I am also selling my 260z 2+2 in the cars for sale section, I will add some more photos and details, but it has an L28, twin carb, F54 block, P90A head, manual, Toyota 4 Piston front calipers, concerted to disc brakes in the rear, r30 discs and r31 calipers. See that section for more details. I will put everything up on ebay (car included) if they don't sell soon, so feel free to make offers. Cheers

Yeah happy to sell turbo manifold, can you pick it up? Its too heavy to post. What's one worth these days?

Haha, its a kind offer.. but while it will probably be a quick fix to get it runnibg, it really needs some rust repairs and some other electrical things like the indicator switch which only works intermittently, to really be a practical car. I'd just prefer to not have it taking up space anymore. Some tool also broke the side mirror off a couple of months ago, the rear bumper is currebtly off, but its in the garage.

I was thinking $2500 if someone can pick it up quickly

Hi all I want to sell my silver 1976 260z 2+2, it has an electrical problem, keeps shorting one of the fusible links. Other than that it was running fine. Its registration has expired and it hasnt run in about 9 months. Ill get some photos up shortly. It has an L28 engine (f54 block, P90A head), 280zx electronic ignition, 5 spd manual, toyota hilux front calipers and rear disc brakes, r31 calipers. The interior is in pretty good condition, some of it has been taken out but I have it all. Reg expired in December 2012 I also have some parts, a couple of fuel injection intake manifolds and throttle bodies and a turbo exhaust manifold and other assorted things - I have put some of these in the parts for sale section. Ive put off fixing it for 9 months now and just cant be bothered dealing with it. You ll have to arranged to get it towed from Ormond, Melbourn South East suburbs. I would prefer to sell it quickly and am open to offers. Either reply here or to luke_mcmahon85@hotmail.com

i'll take some photos tomorrow and you can tell me whether you want it or not. the manifold appears the same as the other I have, the only difference is with the flange which is more elongated.. hard to explain, i'll post comparison shots. I'm in Melbourne. The postage on the TB would be fine, but the manifold might be a bit pricey...

yeah, PZG has hit the nail on the head, the twin throttle setup looks useless... i will get a pic of the XF throttle for you in the next few days, but it includes the TPS, although apparently you can get a stock 280zx one to work with it. It is is pretty good condition some quick googling came up with these for reference - http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=XF_Throttle_body http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4100/4161/22749580007_large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2274958&usg=__fXi5Jdmkz6BNDlpKRX6XZb80egk=&h=768&w=960&sz=306&hl=en&start=9&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=0qsL06DixuS-fM:&tbnh=118&tbnw=148&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dxf%2Bthrottle%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1 Check it out for yourself though, it has been a while since i planned to do this, so i'm a bit sketchy on details. As for 'a bit more work to make it fit' there is probably a few options. You could make an adapter plate, but I was just planning on cutting the end off an xf plenum and getting it welded onto the 280zx intake - you can even buy the aluminium plate with XF throttle bolt pattern I believe. Also where abouts are you located, XF throttle bodies aren't a particularly rare item as far as i know, and the welding work will probably cost more than the throttle body (depending on what you're willing to offer me!). This isn't a bad thing, but if you're interstate,, you amy as well pick one up locally, save on postage... What sort of set up are you going to go with?

I have one which has two butterflys, a smaller one at the bottom that opens first and then a larger one above it that opens - i also have a matching intake for this one, but I don't know if it's the one you're talking about, the throttles are quite small. I was going to go with a Ford XF throttle body for my setup - the XF throttle is for sale too.

Hi, I have a 280zx turbo manifold up for sale, it's been sitting in my shed for ages doing nothing, so may as well get some money for it and hopefully someone else can do something with it. It's in great condition, is painted black, i don't know if it's high temp, i've never used it, but it looks good! I'm in the SE suburbs of Melbourne. Price is $300. Let me know if you want pictures... it looks like every other stock turbo exhaust manifold! I also have a couple of EFI intake manifolds and throttle bodies if anyone's interested.

Thanks for all the help guys! this reply is a little late, but i fixed the problem a week or so ago by following the bleeding advice, and moving the caliper to the 12 o'clock position, with the bleeder pointing straight up, and the air bled out straight away. it stops great now, no pumping or spongy pedal. the pedal stops after only a couple of inches of travel, so i will follow sco_aus's advice and adjust the rod length accordingly, i will also look into a bias valve in the future as the rear is definately locking up early. once again guys, thank you all for the help

yeah, i originally thought the rod length was the problem, but it was hard to adjust, so i took the spacer off... this made the pedal only go halfway down but still no brakes! hahah. the master cylinder is new, and shouldn't have any issues.. when bleeding it it has never had any air bubbles. i will try the horizontal bleeding method this week (fingers crossed).

Huw, you have no idea how much better it makes me feel that others have had the same problems, what finally got it right for you? do you have photos of your rear brake set up?

i installed everything at the same time and did the bleed from furthest to closest. i haven't checked the booster? could this be the issue? the pedal is easy to push all the way down but gets firm if pumped? how would i check the booster? yeah mine are mounted in the 9 o'clock passenger rear and 3 o'clock drivers rear - i thought the bleed nipple was in the highest point this way? what angle do you hold the calipers on to get them to bleed correctly? thanks for the responses guys.

I recently installed Hilux front calipers, r31 rears and a 1" master cylinder. But for the life of me I cannot get them working. I have bled the brakes 4 times now, each time bleeding the master cylinder first. I do not get any air bubbles from the master cylinder bleed nipples or from any of the calipers. However, when I go to drive i can press the pedal all the way to the floor with minimal braking. If i press it again quickly then i get good pressure and the car stops very well. If i'm not wrong this means there is air in the lines right? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out? on the last bleed i followed this guide to the letter - http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/187540/187540#msg-187540 help please! i've been putting this off for month, i want my zed back on the road! also, it's a 1976 260z 2+2 and I'm located in south eastern suburbs melboure, if anyone has any suggestions on a shop that will do a power flush/anyone wants to help me out let me know!

I've had the exact same problem since doing the hilux/r31 swap... So i Swapped in a 1 inch patrol master....same problem... I had a bitch of a time trying to adjust the rod - so to try it out, I just removed the aluminium spacer and bolted the M/C straight to the booster... this had the effect of reducing the pedal throw by half....but still only very minimal braking... I'm thinking it must be a bleeding issue... I'm going to start bleeding again from the master and be reeeeeally thorough (as this will be the 3rd time....) Also, I'll obviously be putting the spacer back and adjusting the rod properly - does anyone have any hints on doing this?

haha, yeah guys, keep it on topic... it will take everyone's combined concentration to find an l28 thats had some work done to it BUT is not too powerful... but more than an l24. sorry dude, i don't mean to be too picky, but you do seem to be a bit all over the place, if a stock l28 has 'more than enough power' for you, you really would be best picking up a cheap l24E from an R30 and putting it in. Then you can wait for a cheap l28 to come up, or rebuild your old one, or just decide your happy with the l24. You also have the option of going FI for kicks, or keeping the carbs If you're using it just for commuting, you really won't find much of a difference between the two

ah....damn you...i'm so jealous.. i lived in florence for a few months while studying, it was the most awesome time of my life. where abouts are you getting married there?

Thanks for all the advice guys, I did use a flare spanner and vice grips with no avail... i didn't try the punch though, i definately will next time, to avoid all this hassle I made up some wire models and took them to Brakes Plus, came back an hour later and they had two perfectly straight brake lines, as someone had 'borrowed' their bending tool and never returned it......(wtf?) Then he told me I could bend them myself, and that i owed him $48......?? Hahaha He said he could bend them when he got the tool back but he wasn't sure when that would be... Anyway, I really wanted to get them on this evening, so I gave him $40 for them which was massively overpriced for four fittings and two straight lengths of hose... ah well... c'est la vie... At least they're on now...i've been putting it off for a while, so i'm glad of that, and they weren't too difficult to bend (not very pretty though) - but not exactly a recommended supplier.

I really need to update my status, I'm in the South Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne. I think I'll try and bend some wire and take it down to my local Brakes Plus (Moorabbin) with the fittings - even though they are a chain and probably charge more, I've had them made some flexible lines up, and the guys are nice.

Hi guys, I managed to mutilate both rigid brake lines when removing the old master cylinder. (couldn't get them undone, had to cut the lines) Does anyone have some spares? Failing that, how do you think is the best way to get some made up? the old ones are no good examples, i'd need to bent some coat hanger wire into the shape to bring down i think... will this make the brake shop guys laugh at me? hahaha

looks great.. where did you get the wheels? thats what i want my 2+2 to look like, but with silver, with a BRE front spoiler in black

if no one else needs them, i'll take them off your hands...i need to show off the new rear r31 calipers, hahaha