Nacks

Hi all, it's been a while. I'm listing a whole stack of 260Z parts on eBay, thought I'd give you a heads-up. Some examples: Rear Demister switch: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201820117363?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 2-seater Tail light surround: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201827111936?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Rear strut caps: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201821152910?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Thanks, James

Sold, deposit taken.

Dropped the price to $18000

Never mind the body kit, which I kind of like. A British V8 and transmission. That's the killer IMO. Why would you do that to a Z? Imagine parts availability and cost. The interior looks pretty good, a lot of money spent there.

Cheers

PM sent.

Interesting hypothetical. I don't mind Skylines at all, good cars generally. The thing is, I'm trying to lower the number of cars we currently own, down from three to two.

Here you go. I don't have any of underneath the car sorry. Suffice to say it's straight, clean and non-rusted. Thank you for the unsolicited appraisal Sirpent.

Price dropped, see original post. Cheers

Thanks. I forgot to add that it has an alarm and two immobilisers fitted. Tyre size is 205/50-16.

As above. Model: 1974 260z 2-seater manual Location: Vermont, Melbourne Item Condition: Excellent Body: Bright red 2-pack paint. Fibreglass front airdam. Only badges are the '260Z' ones on the front guards. Rust? Some paint reaction on tailgate where badges used to be. Hasn't gotten any worse in the 15 years I've had the car. Same for a couple of spots above the left rear tail light. Something just above the C pillar on right side. Again, hasn't gotten any worse during my ownership of the car so I haven't done anything about it. Passenger's door might need a repaint some time, paint reaction/scratch. Mechanical: Reliable daily-driven vehicle. Electrically/mechanically A1. Price and Payment Conditions: $18000 negotiable Registration: NFW 539 March 2012 Vic. registration with RWC Chassis No. RS30000848 Engine No. L28337023 Extra Info: Engine: Balanced, blueprinted L28 bored to 2.85L, built by Steve Newing's Speed Technologies in Mitcham. P90A cylinder head, ported and polished - runs on unleaded fuel 120RW kWs, I have the dyno sheet somewhere Custom plenum with VL (RB30) throttlebody and L28 EFI setup controlled by a Microtech MT-4 ECU Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Swirl pot fitted running Bosch pressure pump 280ZX electronic distributor Twin thermo fans controlled by the Microtech ECU Twin headlight relays, controlling both power feed into headlights and earths through the dip-switch Quartz halogen H4 headlights with 130W/90W bulbs fitted Starter relay 55-Amp Bosch internally-regulated alternator Cold air intake with wet-type Fyna Filter Front and rear strut braces 5-speed manual gearbox. 3.7:1 clutch-type LSD VT Commodore ventilated front discs and calipers - much lighter than Hilux units 1-inch brake master cylinder 2.5-inch exhaust running large bore extractors Adjustable Whiteline stabiliser bars Nolathane bushes throughout Suspension work done by Toperformance in Vermont: Struts shortened 50mm Coilovers with adjustable height spring platforms 250lb. King tapered-wind springs (these cost $170.00 each) Adjustable Koni yellow shock absorbers on front, Koni Reds on the back New windscreen Momo Corse steering wheel, shortened gearstick Seats re-upholstered in grey/red velour, door trims redone in pale grey leather Interior light grey in colour with charcoal carpet in excellent condition CD player with 6.5" speakers in front and 6x9" speakers in rear. 16 x 7 'Performance' brand mags with S-Drive Yokohama tyres I've owned the car for 15 years, even had it as my wedding car. It was an ongoing project, I gradually did things to it as I had the money. I'm selling because I just don't drive it like I used to, don't compete in MSCA sprints with NDSOC any more. It's best time at Sandown was 1:36.5 on street tyres btw. Plus I needed a car with more than two seats to pick up two kids from school. Coped for a year but I'm over it now. Engine has done roughly 75000Kms. Doesn't blow smoke/use oil. Oil changed every 5000kms Fuel economy: City 15 litres/100kms. Highway: 9 litres/100kms Ultra reliable daily-driven car that is awesome fun on a track. Pictures: see attached Best way to get in contact? PM or Mobile

I recently had my windscreen replaced by Noves Windscreens in Mitcham. I had to get the rubber seal as Novus couldn't supply it, I got it from Rare Spares in Bayswater. All up it cost me just under $400 for the lot. Cheers

What's your battery voltage with the engine running at a fast idle eg. 2000RPM? Anything between 13v and 14.4v is fine. This reading will depend on how flat your battery is and how much voltage drop you have across your charging circuit. 12v or below is not good. 35amps sounds pretty right on cars of that vintage. Bosch brought out a 55amp unit but they were mainly on cars that had A/C. some of the Japanese alternators were up around 45amp from memory. You might have a crook battery or a leak that's draining the battery eg. glovebox light that stays on. Do you have a voltmeter or a test light? 1. Turn everything off. Lights, ignition. close all doors. 2. Disconnect one battery terminal. 3. Put your voltmeter leads between the disconnected battery terminal and the battery post. If the voltmeter reads battery voltage ie. around 12v, you MIGHT have a big enough leak to drain the battery. Use your test light between the disconnected battery terminal and the battery post to see if there's enough of a leak to make the light glow. If the test light doesn't glow, you probably don't have a leak. Testing an alternator on a test bench is one thing, fitting it to a car adds a whole pile of new ingredients that might be causing problems. See how you go.

Did you bolt the old alternator on to the new motor? What make/brand of alternator is it? Apart from the main battery wire (thick), how many other wires are there on the back of the alternator? How many plugs/connections? Might pay to take some pics of both and upload. Are your alternators different to one another ie. different brand? 12v tells me it isn't charging. 16-18v is WAY too high. It shouldn't normally go above about 14.4v. Don't EVER disconnect the battery while the engine's running. The alternator uses it to sense/regulate voltage. You risk causing some ugly voltage spikes that might wreck any electronic devices on your car.

It's hard to tell exactly what it's off. You've given a front view and a rear view. A 'side' view would be handy to give me a better idea. Does it look like it'll fit on your car? If you have a Japanese alternator that's externally-regulated, you'll have to mess around with the wiring to get this one to work properly. i'd tend to agree that it's a later-model Nissan. That's an electric choke or 'star' voltage output wire on the back. Nissan Bluebird/Stanza or similar but the side view will give a clearer picture. I haven't seen a regulator like that one but I've been out of it for a while. They might be really common now. A 60 Amp alternator would be a good thing to have, hang on to it.

Yep, I've got Whiteline adjustables front and back, had them on for a couple of years now. They're definitely the go. I set them fairly soft for winter then crank them up in the dry or for when I take it sprinting at Sandown or Calder.

I had my coilovers done by Toperformance in Vermont. I had tapered-wound King springs fitted to adjustable coilover platforms plus Koni yellow dampers from a Celica installed in the front. My Koni reds from the front were rebuilt and shortened to fit the shortened rear struts. Front struts were shortened 50mm as well. Absolutely transformed the car's handling. Mind you, all that work cost me several thousand dollars so it'd want to make a fair difference. Value? I couldn't say how they compare to others out there as I didn't pursue competitive quotes. I'd had good results from Toperformance in the past so I just went with them. If that all sounds too ugly, you might consider fitting a pair of Whiteline adjustable sway bars. They're a really good cheap suspension mod that you can tune to change the way the car corners ie. understeer or oversteer. They're a bit over $200.00 each I think.

Stewart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney sell heaps of bits for Z gearboxes. Check out his website at: http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/ They sell the Porsche-type synchro-rings for the early model FS5C71B gearboxes for $150.00. Probably best off to call them and make sure you're buying the right parts.

They do look cool. The BMW lights are white, not blue though. If you care, you might want to check with the RTA or VicRoads to make sure that forward-facing blue light is actually legal, prior to buying them. You may not be too keen about any extra Police interest in your car. I know I sure as hell aren't My mate bought some blue rubber 'boots' to put over his park lights. He was pulled over by the Police within two days and told he had to get rid of them. Lucky he didn't get an unroadworthy. If they're sealed-beam headlights, just getting a headlight relay fitted would see a marked improvement. Ring a couple of auto elecs in your area to get a quote. The H4 quartz-halogen lights have a globe that clips into the back of the reflector housing. If you're just going to replace the sealed-beams, I doubt you'd get any improvement at all, because they're unlikely to be the sole reason your lights aren't great. Hope this helps.

I just had a thought, reading through this thread. If the camber in the front or rear of a Z was off, could you fit an adjustable brace and crank it either inwards or outwards to change the camber? At that distance from the hub, I imagine you wouldn't need much to make a difference. Anyone tried/looked into this?

Hi, I used to be an Auto Electrician, a good bet is to get yourself a pair of H4 quartz halogen headlights and install a twin headlight relay. You'll love them. I fitted 130/100 globes to my H4s and they're mint. I also fitted a relay to the (+) side of the lights to eliminate any voltage drop to either side of the globes. A relay really is needed, otherwise you run the risk of crap headlight performance due to serious voltage drop over a 30 year-old wiring system and possibly melting headlight/dipper switches due to the increase in current draw. Put simply, it just bypasses most of the wiring system and gives you a feed pretty much straight from the back of your alternator to the headlights. FWIW, 260Zs have a 12v(+) feed to one side of the headlight globe and switch earth (-) to swap high/low beams, instead of most normal cars that switch the 12v (+) side of the globe. Nacks