Zeddophile

unforthunatwly, grindingf still has to be done, so noise gives me away... Gav can tell you how close my neighbours actually are.... hopefully it'll look better in the morning when alcohol is gone....

Stupid a$$holes - nothing better to do with their time than whinge about me fixing zed up... apparently uin recent yearas, like thge last two, been regulations passed that the only work you may do to own car in residential zone is minor servicing, ie. oil change. they've complained to the council, and now i can't finish zed its a 10,000 dollar fine and $h%t. Very pissed off, had over 8 standardd drinks at this point, and going all out. Might end up selling my zed in almost completeed stage, anyone wanna buy? maybe i can t6emp permit and drive it to work for finishing.... or find a cheap panelbeater... or move to abandonedd warehouses... i hatre neighbours, stupid city.... should go back to countryus. EDIT: Changed some language since it displays on front page .

Anyone laugh at a triumph TR8 there? That was my boss, came into work today and goes I didn't have a chance, there were all these turbo zeds and skylines!

L28 and L26 are the motors. The L is the motor model code, refers generally to the older nissan engines with intake and exhaust ports on the same side of the head. 28 and 26 is the capacity (2.8 and 2.6 litres). The capacity also tells you which car it came from, as 240zs were 2.4 litres (or L24), 260s 2.6 litres, and so on. L28s fairly obviously then, come from a 280zx, and are sort after as a basis of most power upgrades for early zeds - in my zed I have a fuel injected L28, which is why I have an L26 with carbs sitting under my bench. As a side note, in pretty much any nissan engine code, the numbers tell you the capacity.

The VIN number will be engraved on the firewall, as Natez said. On my 260, it starts above the brake booster - start of number lines up almost dead centre of the booster. If its painted over, get a wire brush on a drill and start stripping back there - assuming of course its not stamped on the compliance plate, or the vehicle plate.

I'm going to go an aftermarket wheel, one I have my eye on is the Motorsport Auto black leather item from the US.... http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-3117&Category_Code=SWE Keeping my eye out for anything similar over here, I like the non contoured rim and plain steel spokes.... Very hard to find something so simple that looks decent though.

My car was actually red originally, I believe, and was resprayed white at some stage. Keeping it white because everyone has a red zed That said though, does anyone have any photos of this blue interior colour? sounds interesting.

I think it likely that your interior was originally a light cream, and is now dirty.... I'm keeping the cream interior in my zed, which may be a bit odd with a white exterior, but ah well. Seats will likely be black, as will carpet, so that should break it up nicely.

Do NOT put a holley on it. Sell the holley to some idiot who drives an older ford/holden and doesn't know what the hell hes doing, probably get around $400 for it, if you're smart about it, which will cover the cost of SU's. Once again, I'll quote someone I can't remember - "a holleys not a carbie, its a bucket with holes in it." Very difficult (in many cases impossible) to tune a holley right all through the rev range, will often run rich at most rpm, and be right in a band of about 1000 revs. Run the twin SU's, and you'll get much better throttle response and economy. Check Ozdat, SU's often come up quite cheaply there, also check Ebay, i saw 3 SUs go for about $150 one day - unfortunately I was short on cash (as usual) at the time. If you're really stuck, I have flattop Hitachis still bolted to the side of my L26, but I'd rather not pull them off (want to sell motor complete), and I think being 16 you have plenty of time to wait for the bits you want to come up for sale.

mine has those brackets.... i think it must be a later 260 thing (mines 3/76)

Just jump into your yellow pages, and look up fasteners (or something like that) For things like gaurds etc, you don't really need high tensile bolts, but all bolt shops should have pretty much every type of bolt you want, should you decide to go high tensile anyway.

I would imagine for the cost of the Suby diff, you would be just as well off finding an R31 diff, or even buying a Kaaz LSD... Depends on the reason you want the R160 i suppose.....

Agreed - love the black and white tone of the background, and the "view posts since last visit" button.

Well, my alfa only had driver side mirror, it looked fine, but it was colour coded to the car... I think with chrome mirrors, or contrasting colour mirrors, they'll stand out too much to have just one - plus it can be quite useful to have lh mirror. Although judging by my doors on zed, it only had one....

Anyone can do aircon, long as they have the gear and the licence. Since it sounds like you are going to spend a lot of money, you may as well just have the whole system redone - ie new hoses made, new compressor, new condenser and drier etc... I don't know that most of the zed specialists would have the gassing equipment or the licence to do it though.

As far as modifications, Z-Shop definitely know what works and what doesn't, they have campaigned a number of race zeds, and as he said to me, they like their race cars to win. He is on the expensive side, but does definitely know whats what with zeds. Z-worx i don't know anything about, but from all reports they are very good too. Theres a bloke just off highbury rd in Burwood, which someone was recommending a while back.... In a bunch of little factorys down next to the Audi joint, pretty much opposite the cemetery....

2 pack is by all reports much more durable and sets a lot harder than acrilic. I'd hold out and pay someone to spray it in 2 pack, because the effect of baking it in the oven adds a lot of strength to the finish. Just one of the reasons I'm going to get a panelshop to spray mine when its done.

Well, one of my mates knows someone who makes billet adapters for i think V8 supercars, which adapt from five stud to the big single nut type, so he can get them made up for me if I decide to go that way, probably quite cheap.... Had a bit of a browse for wheels this afternoon, I think I quite like ANZ Voltecs in shadow chrome, but I don't think they make them anymore..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ANZ-Voltec-17-x-7-8-Shadow-Chrome-wheels-Tyres_W0QQitemZ8005085558QQcategoryZ6782QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

How many of you guys are running them, and what do you think of them? Its looking to be about the only resort to get rims in the style i want onto the zed - with a 30mm thick adapter, can run anything off a 180sx etc..... Apparently the standard offset for 260z's on the book is 10mm (according to Donellans in Box Hill), just in case I wasn't the only one who wasn't sure of the exact figure. - hmmm, wonder how these would look on a white zed with a black bonnet..... http://firesport.ipspace.com/?section=item&action=show&id=28848

well, i know Z-shop do a type of coilover conversion - cut your struts down by the required amount of lowering, fit yellow koni adjustables from some other z, and weld on adjustable spring seats. Quoted me 1500 front and rear - not sure if that meant 1500 each end, or all up.

Well, if I were doing it, I'd make up an adapter rail which bolts to the bottom of the seat, and has a hole in the right spot for the zed mountings. Probably would be a full frame in the shape of a square, with a diagonal crosspiece, made out of 20mm box steel. But then again, I have access to a welder and a lot of other stuff.....

I want something in the style of those Speedy Hyperfang II's.... Possibly Simmons OM16's, but I don't really like the centre or the outside of them.... Will research the hyperfangs when I have the money to do it, see if they'll fit allright. I don't want anything bigger than 16 inch though.

Semi gloss black (or satin black). I got rims today - 15 x 8, with -25 offset. Not for the zed though

Yeah, I think I'll shave the indicators, but leave the vent..... And I'm not planning to fill the line between the headlight scoop and gaurd, I like that there to break it up a little bit.