Ben

How many members of my family will I need to sell to fund one of these kits? I'll take one with minimal boring and a set of dished pistons thanks! (How many HP would an OSG stroker make with 20psi boost?) I guess I should start saving so I can buy one in 15 years' time...

You sure about that Johnny? The regulations I have clearly state that hub spacers are strictly forbidden, unless originally fitted by the manufacturer...

You are progressing far too fast in your restoration for my liking... Still, my Z was 100% L28ET powered back in '05, but if it's still off the road when you're finished I'll be a bit upset! We should catch up sometime.

Please do - I like the Rota RB's and I already have the S12W's fitted... If you have photographic proof, and can detail all the sizing particulars, then I'd be much more comfortable ordering them!

The best thing you can do for your RB25DET is fit a Nistune to it. Then you'll have full mapping capabilities - you'll be near the limits of the stock ECU with your mods, and unable to maximise the potential of your setup. Also fit a Jaycar IEBC for exceptional boost build (My C34 Stagea was just over 140awkw with ~10psi, R34SMIC, and 3" dump) I think you'll get over 170, but only just. There would be the potential for 180+ with a programmable ECU.

Yeah, probably cheapest to pick up genuine from ebay, but you might be pleasantly surprised at the price from your local dealership too.

A true Datsun fan would have the original text handy (How To Modify...), and ideally a first edition.

The S12 Hilux callipers is one issue - they cleared my 15x7 Superlites (close, but ok). The question I've got is; which ones will clear the 4Runner callipers with the Z31 discs? The Superlites foul by about 3mm, and I don't want to buy another set of rims without knowing 100% that they will clear the S12W callipers.

I'm using LED's from http://www.ledshoponline.com in the tail, reverse & parking lamps in my DR30, the incandescent globes were brighter in the reversing lamps, and the white LED's do look a little 'blue', but the reduced heat & current draw is a massive plus - especially for old wiring! I will need to do slightly more complicated wiring for the indicators, as in the R30, all body 'timing' functions are performed from an '80's version of a BCU - which I will of course need to bypass. Any fully electronic flasher can should be ok for the indicators, but the LED shop does sell LED-compatible ones if you're not 100% sure about what you've got. I plan on changing over all possible lamps in the Z - which will mean that the poor melted green diffusers in the gauges will have some long overdue support in the form of coloured LED's! It does cost a fair few $$ compared to incandescent globes, but in the long run I don't plan on re-wiring the Z again...

225mm was early 240Z (flange output shaft). All others are 240mm.

Actually, while I think of it, what year/model car are we talking about here? And where are you?

Earthing is done via the high-beam switch. The Z uses individual left/right fuses for the headlights, and when one fails, the lights on that side go dim (I'd draw a circuit diagram, but it's just too damn hard...). Double check the fuses, swap them over & be 100% sure that they're ok.

What's the deal with the sale? A GTS is a perfect family car! One of the old SA SVD club members has a red S2 which has been his family car for years - he looks after it, but it is 'used'. (From memory the good seats are in the shed & he has standard Silhouette interior fitted!)