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Posted

Okay Datsunians, I replaced the points on my 240Z's standard Hitachi dizzy with a Hotspark electronic module. Wiring diagram excluded the ballast resistor and so did I. I just took it out and left the wires swingin' in the breeze. Car ran fine, but tacho took the last train west.  Reading Stivva's post on getting the right coil on, I've replaced the GT40R with a Bosch non-resistor type (tho yet to fit it). Question is what should I do with the ballast resistor wires:

A) Nothing

B) Connect them up to each other

C) Make some sort of relay affair that triggers off the alternator

D) Ask some clever sod off this forum what they'd do?

Cheers

Martin

 

Posted

Thanks for that Ben.

My resistor has only two wires. From what I'm seeing that one will be 12v and the other won't be. Seem the 12v goes to the + side of the coil and the other goes to the - side. Can anyone confirm/correct this?

Posted

With my limited knowledge of electronics.

The resister is there to drop the current on the +ve. So my thoughts would be to connect the 12V supply straight to the coil.

Posted

B. Connect them together

They should be a black/white and a green/white wire from memory.

 

The funny thing is, if you have just left those wires swinging, the motor should only run when you have the key turned to crank not when the key is in the run position.

 

There should be two black/white wires round there, one went to the coil +ve and the other to the resistor. Could you have switched them over?

 

Cheers

Mick

 

Posted

Thanks for the help, guys.

But, the mystery deepens. Before the new coil went on, I checked the existing wiring. On the + side of the coil, I have a 12v feed (a white wire) and then the +supply (red) to the electronic  module. On the - side of the coil, I just have the -supply (black) to the module. Just three wires. Swinging in the breeze, I have four 'spare' wires. None of them have power when the key is out of the ignition or when the key is in the 'on' position. Couldn't tell what happened at crank as my arms are not that long...

So the two wires that were connected to the dearly departed ballast resistor are still not connected together. Car starts after a few seconds (reckon that's just the fuel getting to the cylinders rather than an electrical malfunction) and the car runs well. As it's the only 240Z I've been in, I don't know how well it runs compared to others.

Part of me (okay most of me) stays it runs, leave it alone. But the other part wonders what those other wires are and is there anymore life to squeeze from the mill.

Anyone want to satisfy my small part (actress/bishop, fnar, fnar...)?

Posted

Thanks for the help, guys.

But, the mystery deepens. Before the new coil went on, I checked the existing wiring. On the + side of the coil, I have a 12v feed (a white wire) and then the +supply (red) to the electronic  module. On the - side of the coil, I just have the -supply (black) to the module. Just three wires. Swinging in the breeze, I have four 'spare' wires. None of them have power when the key is out of the ignition or when the key is in the 'on' position. Couldn't tell what happened at crank as my arms are not that long...

So the two wires that were connected to the dearly departed ballast resistor are still not connected together. Car starts after a few seconds (reckon that's just the fuel getting to the cylinders rather than an electrical malfunction) and the car runs well. As it's the only 240Z I've been in, I don't know how well it runs compared to others.

Part of me (okay most of me) stays it runs, leave it alone. But the other part wonders what those other wires are and is there anymore life to squeeze from the mill.

Anyone want to satisfy my small part (actress/bishop, fnar, fnar...)?

 

Anyone got any clue on this?

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