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Posted

I bought replacement spindle pins from Nissan, and they have them brand new...about $75 each.

 

When you fit them, put plenty of never seize on them, and they are easy as pie to get out even years later. Also remember the groove that matches the centre cotter pin is not actually in the centre (ie the pin has a front and rear, it is NOT symetrical). If you put it in the wrong way around, too much thread pokes out one end and not enough from the other.

 

There is no brute force involved in reassembling if it is all lubricated and de-burred. Also, if you get the pin in the right way round and get the groove in the right place, the cotter pin goes in very easily and only requires a small torque on the nut to retain it....I do mine up with the inch-pound torque wrench and they are very easy to get out using an aluminium drift without damaging the thread.

 

cheers

 

Jamo

  • Moderators
Posted

Very true... When I had to remove mine again to do the coilovers, I could pull out the pins with just a little bit of force and both slid out. When installing, as you are tapping in the pin, keep an eye through the cotter pin hole, as the pin goes through, look for the pin cut out.

Posted

SW makes a cracker replacment with better nuts ::)

Bought mine from SWR  a Little while back I think they were about $120.00. Pair.

All Stewart's bits are designed for the African Safari rally cars therefore much

Better, stronger than standard.

Will post o/night  p/n 45772400

  • 2 months later...
Posted

When you have to get serious. Cut it.

1. Take out the assembly.

2. Cut the pin and knock out the end stubs. Careful to only cut the pin. Take your time.

3. Ream / polish the bore. If you don't have a reamer, make your own polisher. Do not oversize the bore.

4. Check fit of new pin. Use anti sieze. Do not use force to fit the new pin. Careful to align the lock pin slot.

5. Assemble. Do not over tighten threads. Check torque settings.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After buggering the thread on one with a makeshift puller I tried the other side. I got the locking pin out and skwirted lots of PO in the hole (blocked off the bottom with my finger) the oil disappeared up the bore, lots of it, I left it a bit and was able to hammer it out with a 1/2" brass drift. BTW the strut and trailing arm were out of the car.

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