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Posted

Just got one this morning delivered, they suggest using Hylomar Adhesive Spray.

 

Also i have an L28 sitting in the shed which still has the hone marks on the bore and now that i have the gasket i could just pop it in and see what i think.

Posted

Just got one this morning delivered, they suggest using Hylomar Adhesive Spray.

 

Also i have an L28 sitting in the shed which still has the hone marks on the bore and now that i have the gasket i could just pop it in and see what i think.

 

I use one, 3bond to seal the water passages, does weep oil however and probably not the best option but does work for me and is re-useable.

Roger

Posted

yer people use them with 3 bond and then block the oil passsage and kill there motors all the time ....it can be done mmmm

but there are much better things outthere now and there not that expensive and u can re use the steal lam ones if u need to ......if u need a gasket scoota i have some i give the standard ones away ,,i have some porformance ones there mate if its hi out put thing..

Posted

Why do you think you need one?

 

Are you running extremely high cylinder pressures? Is there some reason you think a standard one won't work? There is a lot of engineering that goes into OEM gaskets, so unless you are deviating from factory requirements by a large degree, why not go OEM?

 

Many of the gaskets out there for 'competition' use, are actually intended to provide reuseability....that's where FelPro head gaskets for chev's and such came from...you could pull the engine down and reuse them....the catch: sealing could be iffy because they don't adhere to the surfaces as well. Sealants such as Hylomar etc are required to get them to seal coolant/oil passages, with the associated risks of blocking small passages that Peter Mc refers to.

 

OEM gaskets provide some of the best sealing out there (oil, coolant and cylinder) to provide you with trouble-free service.

 

As always, the decision to toss an OEM part in the bin needs to be tempered with the question: "...with my limited R&D resources, do I know more than the OEM did when they specified this part".

 

If you're going to routinely pull the engine down, and hence want reuseability, then go for it, but if you want trouble-free sealing, I'd go OEM.

 

Although I o-ringed the block on my L28 turbo (20psi boost = high cylinder pressures), I have had no problems with an OEM gasket for more than 10 years in that application.

 

Cheers

 

Jamo

Posted

Thanks all for the advice.

 

I'm going to fit it with an L28 i have in the garage and if i have problems i'll see what type of gaskets peter has. If only i'll lose a few hrs of labour.

Posted

i use the steel jap gaskets with all my motors, like jamo i like to use the oem KP gasket but when i build a l28t that see 25psi  and 350kw i wont it to stay together and if u o ring the block its hard to rebuild if it goes wrong. and the steel gasket pulls down tighter it does change the block so i use a torque plate with a gasket in when i hone the block. i no it works as these motors don't breath and make more power than other ones  ,,, 

Posted

Peter is right regarding servicing o-ringed blocks...it's hard to deck them once you've put the wires in. But....I have almost never had to do it, and the cylinder sealing is absolutely bullet proof with o-rings. As i mentioned...to seal the coolant and oil passages, give me a nice sticky OEM gasket any day, with suitable roughness on the head and block sealing surfaces to key into the gasket.

 

O-rings are only required for turbo cylinder pressures though, so I certainly wouldn't bother if it's normally aspirated. In addition to what Peter mentioned re servicing, o-rings are a bit of messing around to install in the first place....that said, if anyone wants to do it, I have a cutter here that will put the groove in the top of the block for 0.060"stainless wire. I leave 0.006-0.007" protruding, and it loads up the fire rings in the gaskets so that they just don't move.

 

Peter: I also have a set of the stainless w-rings from the RB26 GTR days that are surplus to requirements if you want a set.

 

Agree entirely on boring/honing with a stress plate....this is an absolute must, as the bores move around quite a bit once you torque up the head and main cap bolts. There are still a few machine shops around that have the plates for both L and RB series.

 

Cheers

 

 

Posted

Well i used the copper one for a few laps and then ripped it back out and replaced with the one Peter Mac generously sent me down. Always wanted to try a copper one but the Hylomar was usless and i would suspect that surfaces have to be surgical.

 

She's all bolted back together now and runs really well with the extra cubes, i think i'll do a stroker  ;D

 

Thanks again Pete.

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