Painting my Z with a roller...

[trolley]

Hi guys,

 

Im looking for local (Australian's) opinions on this 'rustoleum' enamel paint that people have been using with a roller...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

 

Ive seen some results, they are pretty good. Being a uni student with no chance of getting a professional to paint my car, i would like to use this method. The paint it self is american, and there isnt a distributor in NSW so thats a problem.

 

Do we have an equivalent rust enamel paint that i can pick up at bunnings or something?

 

I actually have all the gear for spraying, i sprayed etch primer on my car. The results were pretty bad, dust and hair and crap everywhere. Its just too damn dusty out here (its a country garage). Hence the roller option. Also means next to no masking, no overspray means less paint etc etc etc. Theres lots of sanding involved, but i have no problems with that.

 

So once again im looking for some australian opinions on this. thanks!

 

PS its a 1976 260Z. Has only had primer on it for over 3 years, poor fella i have two weeks to paint it.

[zedevan]

INDUSTRIAL

Superior Coatings Australia

Factory 14, 8-9 Gabrielle Court

Bayswater North, Victoria 3153

Australia

(61) 3-9761-7331 Phone

(61) 3-9761-7337 Fax

(61) 0418-354-315 Mobile

 

Mr. Iain McEwin

Managing Director

Email: sales@superiorcoatings.com.au

 

 

CONSUMER (DIY)

Dy-Mark (Aust.) Pty. Ltd.

89 Formation Street

Wacol, Queensland 4076

Australia

 

(61) 7 3271 2222 Phone

(61) 7 3271 3716 Fax

 

Mr. Ben Gillespie

Director

Web: www.dymark.com.au

 

have you tried calling either of those distributors to see if they resell it to anyone else around australia? bayswater is close enough to my place that i can just drive there one day, hopefully they sell the type used, just realised they sell the industrial stuff...so i was going to do that and pick up some semi-black paint to paint my flares and the bottom rusted bit of my car.

 

i'm up to about page 7 of that mopars thread and am copying and pasting everything thats worthwhile to know (basically whatever the guy with the orange cars has said hehe) so i can post that up when i've gone through it all if anyone wants a better summary, although around page 7 some summary's are starting to be given by others...it doesn't seem that hard.

 

i guess you could always read every type of enamel thats at bunnings and if it can be diluoted with mineral spirits and doesn't have to be mixed with a catalyst to make it harden u may as well give it a shot?

 

some of the flat black paint jobs people are posting up that they've done with the paint looks pretty nice and if there were defects on it i guess its part of the look hehe. if my paint job was dodgier on my car i'd love to give the whole thing a go, it'd be hard to decide on the colour though, atleast its cheap to change it though!

[Toecutter]

Trolley, that threads a really interesting read. I've seen this discussion on classicz before but thought nothing of it seeing I assumed the result would look like rubbish but those cars on that thread look quite ok. It would be really interesting to see the results up close in real life!

 

Keep us posted if you take this route. I reckon as he said your prep work would be important and removing all the parts prior to spraying the car would make it look a lot better. IE remove all glass and badges.

 

Sulio

[RBZ 260]

I must admit when i read the title i thought to my self "u got to be kidding"

 

but after reading some of the posts from that link im hooked.

 

i thought best paint and easy is the 2pk paints base over clear. easy quick and last longer without polishing every month. but it does cost and its very dangerous to work with.

 

but this is very interesting. if thats the case u can paint the car any colour u want almost on monthly basis :twisted:

 

I realy would like to see his work up close

 

but pics are nice.

 

its probably the brand too that since he said he can get pretty much any colour made up.

 

i doubt it we get that luxury here in oz.

 

hmm i may have to try that idea on my rx4 just for the hell of it. so if anyone can find (before me) the brand and people in oiz that could be selling it let me know.

 

try and see if i can replicate the job that bloke in USA has done. bit hard to believe as ive been invovled in crash industry for some time now. but ill give it a go.

[Azon]

that looks interesting..... have to think about this..... will be ready for a paintjob in around 2 weeks..... :?

[zedevan]

those two companies information i posted up are from the rust-oleum site and are listed there as distributors, when i have a car on the road i'm hopefully going to go grab me a can and paint these doors along with the bottom section of my car. here's a lists of availble pre-mixed colours for one of the types used

 

http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1&dds=16

 

but there's an industrial version of it thats a bit tougher or something, its getting more confusing the more i read it! i'm thinking i should go for the gloss black so i can see just how glossy their gloss paints are in person

[zedevan]

thought i'd stop in at bunnings on my way past to see what they had in terms of rust paint, they dont have tremclad or rustolem but i'm thinking i'll see if the wattyl one, Killrust, works. it says u can dilute it 10% with mineral turps...is this the same thing as mineral spirits? looking at the thinners i couldn't find mineral spirits, only metho spirits...so i'm confused! going to go and buy the things tomorrow after reading the ingrediants more and looking up what it should be, or i might call that place in bayswater first...

[zedevan]

just for anyone else as stupid as me mineral spirits = mineral turps

 

the moparts thread says as long as its not acrylic enamal it should generally work, so if it says to clean with mineral turps then it should work fine. the only thing i dont get now is some ppl say they are using an Alkyd based paint, and others say it doesn't mention it on the can anywhere, and the main guy seems to keep saying different things.

 

i skipped foward alot of pages and they start talking about marine paint, and wattyl make a marine paint thats a alkyd enamel, but it says it has a high opacity...i think its time to just buy a small can and test it out!

[Huw]

I used a big tin of that wattyl kill rust to rust proof my zed (on top of filling all the cavities with oil)....

we found it was best not to thin it and just brush it on nice and thick....

i think the big can was something like $70...

seems like good stuff, but time will tell

[zedevan]

hmmm i should of tried rolling the paint on straight on one bit then...ohwell

 

the bit in the marked out square is thinned the least then you can kinda tell which bits are the most thinned, it started to run on me etc. looks like its going to work, depends on durability i guess! they were saying it takes 3 coats to get a solid colour, and when i had it the thickness where i'd say it would take 3 coats it was running so ?

 

they only have black and white at my local bunnings atm, they said they only have just started to stock it and are going to get the base coat colours soon, they have a colour thats made to match colourbond's "woodland grey" which might look nice, or mayb one of the blues, either new ultra blue or ocean, then there's some other colours which would look nice and match the colour theme of this forum and probably look nicer as solidcolours than the other ones i mentioned!

 

so i'll keep rolling it for now and hopefully have some nice results within a week! here's some pics of the first coat just after i painted it and have left it to even out for a bit

[Toecutter]

Evan,

it's all got a bit confusing. What are you trying to do with the paint you have bought? Isn't your car green? Are you painting the whole car black? Is the paint your using the same type as originally discussed at the begining of this thread?

 

Sulio

[RBZ 260]

hmm seems to be promising.

 

what brand did u use? did u also get the foam rollers from bunnings?

 

maybe if u do 2 coats than wait till it dries than another 2 coats to get the colour right. and stop the runnin as well.

 

did u try on the inside of the doors with wierd shape?

 

i still cant figure how he did that from that forum.

 

i guess with hinges its easy u just dip it in and hope for the best.

 

Is the finish nice and glosy and no visible streaks from the roller?

[zedevan]

i'm painting on these doors to stop them from rusting basically as atm the bare metal parts are doing just that! i'm not wanting to put them on my car anytime to soon as the paint on the majority of the car is quite nice so i'm just going to bog up the bottom of the doors and paint it black with this stuff, well thats the plan anyway!

 

the is killrust, made by wattyl, i ended up buying black instead of a colour as bunnings only currently stocks black and white, but they said they are going to get the base colours soon so it can be tinted, and they have dulux's rust paint which can be tinted but i liked the look of this one for some reason, i think coz they had a sample board of the colours up and they were ppprrrreeetttttyyyy

 

after reading through more pages on the moparts site there were people from other countries trying different paints and it seemed as long as they were an oil based enamel rust paint it went ok, so i thought i'd give it a shot instead of chasing down the rust-o-leum paint, as its not ment to be as good as tremclad anyway in terms of durability.

 

the door has now been sitting outside for 8 hours (it says it takes 16hours before you can put down another coat, and not to let it get below 10 degrees...but i can't help that!) and i thought i'd test to see if i could scrape it off easily, i started with the medium dilution bit and with the back of my nail nothing, but with the front when i pushed hard i could peel it off, i then tried on the thinest bit and it wouldnt' budge! so i think this stuff is going to be good enough! i'll give it more time and coats before testing it more, and try to get it as thin as possible without running consistantly.

 

there are no lines from the roller, when you roll it on the whole thing is covered with bubbles, which they say u roll over it again a minute later and they pop, i found this semi true, but it also created more bubbles, so i ended up just blowing on them in some sections, and in others i kept rolling over them, so i could see the different finishes if any. you can't see lines from the roller as it kinda does all thin down and the bubbles spread out and overlap so there are no distinct lines. because i am doing this just out on a veranda alot of dust has blown into it, its ment to just sand straight out so i'll see how it goes.

 

i used the rollers closest to what i thought they were discribing on the net, just short little white foam ones, they are higher density but not really that hard, and i couldnt' find ones with one rounded end, although i can see how it would help with certain parts. i've only tried doing what was photographed, and i had left over paint so decided to paint a section of my now grey front spoiler to see if it sticks to dirt! i'll post more pics as i continue!

[zedevan]

i'd say this stuff is glossier than the stuff in america, i'm happy with how the first coat dried, but the second coat went on badly, i think its because i'm using the same roller from yesterday and its put lots of small bubbles in it that can't b popped...or mayb its because of my watering down ratio, but i tried various ones next to all of it with the same issue...i did mix up alot less paint this time as i wasted alot yesterday, so mayb i didn't stir it enough

[zedevan]

i just went and looked at it again and it isn't as bad, but still not as nice as the first coat, so i think my mixture wasn't the best along with using the old roller, but i'll see how it dries.

[zedevan]

have you had any luck Trolley? after doing a couple of coats (nowhere near as many as they do, but to get it perfect would need to do the number they suggest) it seems pretty hard to scratch off, and only really does when my nail gets caught on a small bit of dirt etc, as it needs to b sanded again. so i think it comes down to how well it can polish up after being sanded, so i'm off to buy a polisher tomorrow!

 

that orange peel section sanded down well and with a thin coat over it it looks pretty perfect, but could still be better, although with enough practice and a large enough area i reakon this could look really good!

[zedevan]

since my crx was written off (well badly damaged, getting quotes and trying to work out insurance stuff atm) i thought i better get a move on with the zed so i have a car to get to uni in, in a week! so i didn't get the panels completely smooth, and decided to not add any turps to the paint so i'd only have to do 1 or 2 coats, and then later on when i have time i'll jsut sand it back and make it perfect. still have to fix up alot of other things to do with the front end of the car so it will be good to have this out of the way, and its looking good, a bit orange peely, but it will do the job well enough! as long as the masking tape worked...

 

there are a few patches on the door higher up that i dont want to paint black so its a bit of a pain...

[Toecutter]

A vid related to this type of paint.

 

[biggels240z]

Evan the only problem with that wattle paint if you get oil or petrol on it it will just fall off , I used this on my zeds underbody and taillights etc, You however can get a hardener from supercheap auto for about $26 which will make it chemcially more stable and stop paint from stripping the paint. It comes up like 2 pack. I also spray it , i dont mix it with any turps just neat in the run and it comes up a treat. Anyway good luck with the beast

 

cheers

Richard

[zedevan]

hmmm interesting, i'll have to try putting oil on my test door, i know i should of tested it more before i painted it onto my car, but i didn't do a perfect job so i dont really care, i just washed my car to take it down to hopefully get a roadworthy tomorrow (the parts i had painted felt very different to wash, the sponge slid over it alot easier) and i think it looks pretty good! i would of taken some pics but it was too dark

[zedevan]

i haven't had the balls (or time really) to try pouring different substances on it, but i will soon, here's a picture of the car back on the ground and after the wash, pity about what the bird left on the side...

[Toecutter]

Close ups? When is it back on the road? Time to go low!? :wink:

[Natez]

when did you jack up the front... haha, just joking,... but yer closer pics, hopefully see the car on sunday'

 

 

mine is no where rw yet... dman it need to get some sickies at work... haha

[zedevan]

nah i'm working on sunday unfortunately the car doesn't have a RWC yet anyway, i've taken it to a mechanic i was recommended to as i dont have the time to do the last few bits, and would be more productive if i worked and used the money to pay someone to do it in half the time while paying them more than twice what i'm earning hehe

 

it sure does need lowering, for the RW it needs work on the front steering rack, new front flexible brake hoes, the r/h tie rod joint and ball joint boot's both need replacing. then need to get the headlight switch to work instead of using my bypass switch (going to pick up zeddophiles one sometime) and then adjust the handbrake. the only remaining annoying bit is he says there is rust in the right hand door frame, but he didn't pull off the interior panel so i dont know what he's talking about, he said me bogging the skin is fine but i can't just bog the frame ofcourse, but i pulled off the interior panel and i can't see any rust in the frame so i'm going to go talk to him, as i'd prefer to leave my green door on there for now...so hopefully it can be on the road in a week or two, then koni shocks and the king springs soon after.

 

when i was towing it to the place its at, a nice guy pulled over to offer to help push (thought it had broken down as was stopped on the side of the road) and turns out he has a 240z (so i told him about this site) and is selling some stuff to do an rb26 conversion to his so i might buy some of the stuff off him so i can keep this cheap insurance happening and get some performance happening too

[zedevan]

i just tested out putting petrol and brake fluid on the paint, brake fluid makes it very easy to scratch off and it goes all clumpy, but petrol just seems to give it a nice shine and not effect it much at all. i'll try oil in a bit, but i really should be doing homework...