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240z or 260z 2 seater prices


RBZ 260

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hi guys

 

new to this forum but not to new to the z.

 

anyway ive been looking for a 240z preferably with matching numbers to restore in the future. as im almost finished my modded 260z 2+2 (butchered as some will say :roll: ) i want to get hold of a 240z also consider 260z 2 seater.

 

ive looked at few in adeialde here are prices

 

$2.2k '74 matching numbers,was on ebay but no sale Complete rust bucket.

 

2k '72 defected engine shot l28, chassis "repaired" by some butcher probably need complete removal of LHS chasis rail, also defected.

 

interstate

 

5k '70 original numbers etc.. look ok havent seen all the pics yet

 

1.8k '74 260z 2 seater rust bucket but runs. chasis ok, but modded.

 

now the 5k on ebay currently, was 8k last week and now price drop.

 

is it worth the 5k???

 

Let me know what u guys thinks here is the link but im sure most of u guys have seen it.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-240Z-HS30-1970-Chassis-00060-matching-numbers_W0QQitemZ4627235169QQcategoryZ102220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

or if anyone else know of a 240z at respectable price for what it is. ie no previous repair to chasis can be rusty but not total. no matching numbers or etc.. still considered but for the price.

 

deal is if i get a matching number one ill definetly restore to original spec. minus rims i hate those hub caps but will source them.

 

or if not matching than ill restore the body to close to stock but put different engine eaither nissan v8 with twin turbs or rb26dett or vg30dett

 

i like the admins 240z looks sik i want it :twisted: hehe

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personally, if you want to restore to factory-ish spec....best to get lowest Vin 240z.... as you'll buy now for 3-5k, say something that needs a full ground up restor, and not molested already.... but it will be worth it in the end, as if yo keep it for long enough, and restore it to its formor glory, it will be worth more in the end than compared to a 260.... be just more collectable...

 

try to get the lower VIN in best original conditon you can find, spending more at the start might possibly save you money in the long run,

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I'll be selling a 240z soon. Just in the last stages of getting the carbs cleaned up to get it driving. Just sourced the original hubcaps too. Totally original with maching numbers, fresh red 2 pak paint, reskinned dash and refreshed interior ie reuposltered seats etc. However it is auto. I want to finish this car off to look like it did when it came out of factory as far as all the parts on the car. All thats left is the original stereo, if anybody knows where I can get one do tell!

 

Sulio

0413 188 024

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is it worth the 5k???

 

The condition of the body is everything. Mechanicals is easy and interior stuff is generally availble from the US (some unique RHD parts can be hard, but still out there). Rust in the body and previous accident damage are the things that cost the $$ to repair properly, and unless you can inspect the car for yourself how can you know ??

 

I think this guy originally wanted around $9K some months back, so that might suggest the reality is different to the description. On the plus side, it's a low chassis number and if it has the original engine/mechanicals that increases the value, assuming you want that.

 

His description suggests the car was originally brown, but painted white, which is not unusual. But the photo of the chassis number appears to show yellow and the engine bay is black. None of these things are a 'big deal', but one implication is that the car has been in an accident at some stage (painting the engine bay black is an old 'trick' used to 'hide' chassis/rail damage - makes it harder to spot). Of course, a car of this age is highly likely to have been in accident at some stage. It's a question of repair quality.

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One thing I really don't like the look of - where the dogleg coming down from the rear quarter meets the rocker panel on the left hand side (just at the rear of the door), it appears to be smooth finish, and the seam has been hidden (ie filled over) - but on the rh side it hasn't, and you can see a bit of rust there also.... I'd say theres been accident damage on that left hand side...

 

On the plus side, interior looks complete, and fairly decent, and it is a very early car....

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hi guys thanks for the reply.

 

ive talked to the guy and he seems ok. and found out bit more about the car. also got pics.

 

well talking to him the car seems to be in good condition. and it has 98% original bits on it except the rims. he told me the usual rust spots but no chasis at all.

 

but did get some pics of the inside around the wheel wells on the floor there seems to be fair bit of rust. also the beaver panel near the lock has as well. firewall on battery side usual spot at the air box.raditor support lower near chassis also rusted a bit.

 

5k seems bit high considering its transport will cost at least anotehr 1k.

 

to tell u the truth im not worried how low the chasis number is or if early or late one. as long as is 240z and not total rustbucket.

 

as i was typing this i got another set of pics. and yeah the dog leg does look a bit suspicius. fair bit of rust on it.

 

i think bit on the very rich side now. the one in sa with 2 defect labels and screwed chasis is more rust free. though its not matching number.

 

damn most ppl want huge dollars for these things and they screwed.prob 2-3k is more realistic for it.

 

anyone has any other 240z they know of let me know. at least runing doesnt have to run good but few 100meters would be good lol just makes it cheaper for transport.

 

cheers guys

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(painting the engine bay black is an old 'trick' used to 'hide' chassis/rail damage - makes it harder to spot).

 

heheh is it? welll sounds like it will work. and i does when to come to think about it. the defected 240z that i went to see first time i didnt spot the bubles and rust but second time i did and that one had same black engine bay.

 

BUT

 

my 260z engine bay is painted black as well nice shiny black metalic but my chasis rails are straight as no rust at all. and wasnt hiding anything. i just painted it neutral so if i ever want to change the colour on the car i dont have to pull the engine out to match it, black goes with most colours even nissan does it factory on their newer cars with darker colours that is. plus it bit harder to see dirt on it . :lol:

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Sulio is selling his other Zed at a bargain price when you compare it with car #60.

 

I honestly would be asking more than what you told me you were thinking of selling the car for Sulio but it's your choice. Being as original as you say and matching numbers all the hard work is done. I'm tempted to buy it myself but don't know where I could put it.

 

However on the flip side it that white one is very early, certainly one of the earliest I've seen on the market for the past 6 years. It would be a shame to see it modified really.

 

Finding a 240z these days for 2-3k is unrealistic unless they are totally rusted out. Then they only become useful for parts.

 

I've even got my original L24 matching numbers for my Z stored away "just incase" I ever change my mind.

 

Keep looking the right car will show up. If your not fussed over original a 74-75 260z 2 seater would probably be a better candidate for an engine swap. Longer chassis rails and slightly more refined to begin with, you can always swap in the 240z rear lights like Sulio did if you are like me and prefer the early tail lights.

 

Best of luck with it all keep looking the right car will come up eventually.

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yeah my advice would be to save up and buy a really nice one that someone else has wasted the money on as all the little things do add up and even if you think u'll have time the reality is you probably won't end up having it...

 

i probably paid a bit more for my car than it was worth (5g, which still i'd say is pretty resonable when compared to other cars of the same kinda price and i was in a rush for a car, i probably shoulda bought a crappy daily driver and saved up and bought something like sulio's one) unless i wanted to make it orginal again, which i dont really plan on doing but am keeping the parts just incase.

 

i'm still considering possibly selling my car to buy a crapper one so i can save up for a real beauty but i'm kinda attatched to it...

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One lesson I learnt Evan is you'll always want another car for some reason or another. I still think you got a good deal and the price was fair considering it' originality and condition. The only rust is in the doors and that's relatively easy to fix.

 

From my experience it's much more satisfying fixing up a car to your specification than buying something half cooked. I know your still studying so it's really hard and money is a bitch.

 

Been there done that, now I actually have money but it's a slow process for me too. My engine is taking forever but that's because I want to build a beast. I get tempted to buy other motors like that turbo one recently however i'm trying to stick with the plan.

 

:D

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yeah agreed, just for that few grand more you get a fair few more grand again worth of stuff, still slowly trying to chase up orginal door skins for her but alot of the time they are late 260z doors which apparently are designed so they cant fly open in a crash...where as the ones on my car can :shock: hehe, which makes me wonder if there are 3 sorts of doors or just 2 or ? but anyway

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lol guys nah im not after a finished one wheres the fun in that?

 

i enjoy rebuilding and fixing things in my spare time expecialy car orientated.

 

as for someones comment for body fixing and mech dont need to pay anyone. i got fully equiped workshop with all the tools in it with chasis straightening inbuilt(thanks to my late father) conteplating in adding a spray booth as well somehow cause takes ages to clean it before a respray lol. and yeah i do know how to use them tools too. i used to work in the crash industry few yrs back before changing to electronics.

 

dont mind fixing rust but hate fixing someone elses butchery.

 

once the gallery decides to work ill post somepics of my 260z with rb20det and lot of other mods such as power steering front suspension and brakes and rear disk setup with cv shafts instead of the unis.

 

all work done by me including the paint job with exception of few items (i dont have lathe for machining hubs). my avatar is only pic of it at the car at the on moment on this site.

 

got one 240 to check out tonight hopefully its better or reasonably priced.

 

 

cheers

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i found a 72 240z pretty good rear no rust at all. icluding hatch is in good cond. i never seen a 240z with no rust on the beaver panel.(that hasnt been replaced).

lhs chasis need repair bit of rust and clean up of previous repair. floor is very good. has few small dents but nothing mayor.

 

comes with l24 but not matching. but apperently can get the matching engine.but its stuffed. has damage on the bonnet and small rust areas on the seals.interior wise seats are shagged door trims ok rear plastic in the boot has few cracks otherwise good. dash cracked as well.and has a sunroof. 1.8k ok price????

 

let me know asap if u guys think its ok dont have much time on it.

cheers

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well i ended up getting it for 1.8k. i think its ok deal. real prob is getting that rail fixed or changed and getting the defect off.

which i dont think would be too much of a problem.

 

otherwise tha car is pretty much rust free. also it has vented rear hatch. rang nissan today apperently some particular models had vented rear hatches till july '73. this one has them but some moran tought he fill it up with bog. probably the reason it hasnt rusted at all lol. anyone know the reason for the vented hatch. i guess it had that option cause of the side badge blocking the other vent hole. im just guessing here. and y did some model have and some didnt.

 

as for some debate prior about mirrors 240z came with fender mirrors when they were new and still available from nissan. or maybe that was on different forum.

 

well my hunt for 240z has ended. cant wait to get it running now lol geez i havent even picked it up yet and i want it runing. lol

 

smartass as for costing ill do it myself so i should save afair bit it will only cost me in bit of mig welder gas and wire and material for new chasis rail. im getting one made up out of spring steel same material they originaly made it. u sed to work in crash industry few years back and have replaced few chasis rails. i just need a rotiserie to make my job lot easier.

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Rbz,

 

The hatch vents were fitted to the early 240's and the pillar vent fitted to the late models. I think the changeover was done because of the old exhaust fumes getting into the cabin trick.

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What they dont have spring steel in old cars. ok fair enough. so what is it just plain steel?

 

its not spring as in spring its but it does absorb impact better, crumbles that is. but its a bitch to get straight again.

 

got to dig up on that.

 

cause with new cars u have to replace with genuine item if possible if not u have to use same material for chasis rails.

 

if fails i just use the 260z rail that i got on the parts car. its rust free pretty much up to the point i need.

 

cant wait to bring the beast home. lol

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as for some debate prior about mirrors 240z came with fender mirrors when they were new and still available from nissan

 

are you saying the mirrors are availible from nissan? any idea how much if they are? i really shoulda called them or something

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Rbz' date='

 

The hatch vents were fitted to the early 240's and the pillar vent fitted to the late models. I think the changeover was done because of the old exhaust fumes getting into the cabin trick.[/quote']

 

That's correct series 1 240z's ended at the end of 71.

 

My 240z is an early 72 and does not have them.

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