Zedback Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Ok, been a while but there has been a little bit of progress and to tell the truth a huge milestone last Sunday arvo... But first things first. I had a bunch of mismatched locks and my last experience with a locksmith was expensive and a pain in the rear, not to mention this project is DIY as much as possible. So I picked up from evilbay 2 pairs of door locks all keyed alike. 2 for the doors and 1 each for the fuel filler cover and the hatch. The fuel filler cover is identical to the door locks but has a different lock plate (?) on the back - an easy swap. The hatch lock is a very different beasty and requires complete dismantling of both locks and swapping over of the internals (lock pins?)... Other than having to file a litle bit off the protrusions on the sides of some of the pins to get them to fit, none of this was hard and all up was completed in a couple of hours. The finale of course is to add the obligatory key ring... Have also re-fitted the interior. It looks pretty schmick in the pics but in reality it's not quite with everything other than the seats being 30 year old originals. I recovered the seats using a pair from Motor Sport Auto in the US, I've had nothing but excellent service from these guys. While I did redo the support bands in the seat base, my only regret is not adding more soft padding to bulk out the covers. Though I do need to clean a bit of overspray off the rear strut towers So that's most of the little that has been acheived over the last 5 months, but the most exciting and latest development is in the engine department. I dropped in an L28 from a 280zx, fitted the carbs, an old exhaust, mech fuel pump and 280zx dizzy. A lick of paint here and there and a bit of a polish and it almost looks like a new one, rather than a second hand doner. Last Sunday afternoon for the frst time since 1988 the old girl kicked over and started! IT'S ALIVE! ;D ;D ;D ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Nice work Mike. It must be nice to have a running L series again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L28 rat Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Good thread,nice piccies Good to see im not the only one who likes to use nissan metal in nissan rust repairs I love the non "cheque book " build threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Nice work Mike. It must be nice to have a running L series again Thanks for prompting me to update and yeah, last time I had an L series running was early 2004 in Canberra Good thread,nice piccies Good to see im not the only one who likes to use nissan metal in nissan rust repairs I love the non "cheque book " build threads Thanks, appreciate it. I'm also the sort that get's far more fun and reward out of fixing it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 This really is a reno is slo-mo, not helped by dropping an auger through the power supply to the shed but had a bit of fun today. Even though Galderdi had kindly supplied an old radiator I ended splashing out on a cheap alloy one, they're down to $200 delivered! It's ok, nothing flash but it is thicker than stock and there is no room room for a 280zx fan coupling and fan. Even the original 240z hub and metal fan was going to be close. So instead I've gone with a couple of electric fans. I really like the look of the metal fan shrouds with the twin electrics and rather than buy a unit in, thought I'd have a go at fabricating one up. First I marked out two halves on some scrap 0.4mm sheet I had lying around. Then folded the ends to set it out from the radiator. I pop-riveted the ends together and then mounted the fans which really hold it all together. I also added a 5mm bend on the top and bottom long edges to add a bit of stiffness and reduce the gap to the radiator. Lastly, fully assembled on the radiator. It's attached by 2 screws on each end to the frame and is rock solid. Almost as good as a bought one! Have also started on the suspension and have cleaned up the front control arms, painted in rust bullet and new black poly bushes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Good to see you getting there Mike. Wait untill you get to go for a drive. Now that is the best part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Another year and another milestone! Been rebuilding suspension and brakes over the past couple of months. New springs, Tokico shocks and bushes all around. The rear lower pinion bushes have got to be the worst I've ever done, the front end is comparatively simple. Got some twin piston callipers, very noice! and a new gizmo to make up brake lines. Turns out beautiful flares... Very quick and easy to use and well worth the extra dollars for the quality. Made up a pair of hardlines and mounted up the calipers with new discs All finished! ...though I definitely need to upgrade the 7/8" master cylinder, it starts working about the same time the pedal hits the floor! I didn't get to the Qld Z Xmas drive but at dusk I couldn't resist going for a little drive of my own. It's dark, no lights, clutch is only part bled, carbies aren't tuned and there is no exhaust on the muffler ...but how cool to finally take her for a spin. Came home on a truck just under 4 years ago and hadn't previously moved since 1988. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 First drive, awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Is that the eastwood flaring tool, because I bought one myself hoping it was worth the money. Also what tubing did you use, stainless or steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Is that the eastwood flaring tool, because I bought one myself hoping it was worth the money. Also what tubing did you use, stainless or steel? Yep, used zinc plated steel tube. Had a few practice runs and found (for this tubing anyway) that I needed to pull the tubing between 1-2mm shy of the face to get a good flare. With it flush the flared end was too thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 I love the Christmas holidays, so much gets done Still a few things left to do but nearly there... Bullzeds wheels came up good with a bit of a polish and paint - gives it the old school look Another video, this time in daylight - not very exciting to watch... Fitted a 15/16" Nissan Urvan Master Cylinder to go with twin piston front callipers, fits fine just has the front-rear reversed. Down side is it's steel instead of alloy and at 1.8kg is litterally twice the weight of the stock one Not happy with the brakes yet though, pedal is very soft and the action is very on/off :-\ Had a dicky light switch, the mechanism would jam and the lights would flick on or off on their own depending on vibration. The electronic bit can be pulled apart with care The innards are pretty basic with two sping loaded plastic pins mounted in the rotating section (you can just see the 2 holes) which press down on two metal plates that act as the switches. There is a very small lip on each side of the holes for the platic pins. On mine one of these lips for the headlight contact had broken away allowing the plastic pin to fall out leaving the metal plate to flap about. I stuck a tiny amount of black silicone on each end of the wee spring in the pin, just enough to keep it in place. There are some "how-to's" on the net and one of these advised flipping the identical metal plates. By flipping them you get to use fresh, unburnt metal for the contacts. With an upgrade to H4 units running through relays headlights are better than new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Wondering about selling this one to fund the next project. I know I should finish it but interest has been waning of late. Any ideas on what it should be worth? If anyone's interested send me a pm. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Was a bit of a cold wet weekend but got a little bit more done. Fitted mudflaps front and rear, quarter panel badges and cleaned the windows. The H4 headlights make a significant difference too! Have also fitted up a new 2.5" exhaust and shiny TBC headers. New front ball joints and anti-roll bar bushes finished off the suspension, and fitted new rear brake shoes. Reset the carbies and it runs up and down the driveway pretty good. Really down to the last few bits and pieces - none of it really interesting enough to post much about... The most exciting thisng this year has been putting up some additional shed space to store the all-too-many-projects in. 3000x200x50 treated sleepers make a, relatively cheap yet solid floor. It's also easy to relocate and I had to move an existig shed to build this one made from two singles joined down the middle. As stated earlier she's up for sale. The Morris needs attention and there's another 2 rust buckets in need of a lot of work, the '71 240z and another abandoned classic that caught my attention - a 1959 Jag Mk1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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