S30 Heater Valve Repair

[YosemiteZed]

Well After watching HomeBuiltJeff and recovered from the shock of the $300 valve cost of part replacement I ventured into my cave and got a heater valve to see what can be done

Went on the forum to see if this has been covered before and could not find any info on repairing but plenty on leaking valves

So the quest begun 

pic 1 The leaking Valve

 

pic 2  Tools I used for repair

 

Pic 3 the valve assembly with lever pin that has to be removed first

 

pic 4 Using a small blade screwdriver I carefully prised the brass tabs up enough to release it from the valve frame

 

pic5 released the valve cock from the frame

 

 

pic 6 bent the brass tabs back a little bit further and with a 8mm bolt up the tube end gently tapped the valve seal mechanism out

 

When you look at the tube you will see indentations on the tube this is where the bottom of the outer seal sits and to release the parts you need to remove ONLY the back circlip,with that removed the valve drive stem can be dismantled and the old seals can be removed and sidelined for reference.

pic 7 & 8 show you that there is an o ring hidden in the middle white plastic part that is one of the main leaking points that needs to be replaced

 

 

pic 9 shows the disassembled valve stem and cock, the replacement parts were some normal metric o rings and a hot water tap valve from my cave via bunnings plumbing parts,be sure that the inner hole of the tap valve is suitable size to the heater stem rod

 

pic 10 & 11 shows the the bakelite guide  and a glued small o ring to duplicate the original recessed seal and centre the guide

 

I glued this oring to the seal with 406 and that allowed the guide to be sealed centrally to the brass valve tube and pressured the circlip back on the stem behind the correct brass washer and now the front seal was complete

pic 13 shows the rear seals I put the on the stem and then ensured the small centre seal was pressed back fully into is plastic to complete the shaft seal

 

I then reseated the valve assembly back into the tube with the new o ring ensuring that the brass washer was sitting on the tubes locating indentations

with that complete I used the g clamp ,socket over the stem and wood to the tube bottom to slightly press the assembly to its correct location in the tube  and slightly bent the to tabs slightly to hold the valve assembly into its tube 

Relocated the tube back into its position in the frame and with a punch and small tab hammer bend the tabs back over as in pic 3

tested the valve and it was a success 

so don't toss the valves all is not lost

Cheers

PHIL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2019 by YosemiteZed

[gav240z]

Nice pinned this post, I've seen these valves new for $80 or so. Not $300!

However at some point these may become NLA and always good to be able to fix something for a few dollars in seals.

Edited February 1, 2019 by gav240z
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