Clutch Slave Cylinder Rod Length

[wildy55]

Guys

Will be soon onto the clutch Reno part of my resto - 71 240Z

I bought a new clutch slave cylinder which came without an actuating rod. When I test fitted it, there seemed to be too much gap between it and the clutch fork. Are there different length rods? It might also be a different throw out bearing causing the problem. If so, is there anything I can do to save dropping the gearbox to swap it?, ie make up a longer rod and keeping the bearing in place?

Cheers

[Retro Z]

I just cut off some steel rod/bolt and cut and ground it until i was happy with the length and the clutch fork was getting full travel. The one that came with it is 6cm long and was too short..but it does depend on which bearing collar you use aswell. If the bearing collar isn't the right height gearbox needs to come off. It took me about 3 attempts having to remove and replace gearbox until i got it right.

 

If u have a low height pressure plate you need the taller coller and vice versa. You can also put washers under the pivot ball of the clutch fork to entend travel.

[wildy55]

Cheers mate.

Might be paying the price of mixing and not matching clutch components. Another job to add to the list...

[Linton]

same as above I made my own rod on the lathe, the brgs are the same but as I found out there are 3 sizes of the part the brg (carrier?) pushes on to I think I read it in one of Lurch's posts, I had my flywheel machined and they decided to lighten it with out asking,(not that I minded) all up they took off about 1/2 inch of material off the flywheel, after I fitted the clutch I popped the slave trying to bleed it, in the end I took off the boot, screwed out the pivot put a lock nut on it and screwed it back in leaving 1/2" of the pivot screwed out to make up for the material removed, so far it is working great.

[dat2kman]

There are five different height thrust bearing carriers.

You can machine up a spacer ring to fit over carrier, before pressing bearing on, up to 4mm thick.

 

Other option is to drill a hole in the depression on the clutch fork, and, using a decent shanked bolt, of appropriate length, cut off hex head, round it off, to fit into slave cyl, other end, machine up a rounded collar, approx 10mm long, fit two hex nuts, onto threaded portion, slip collar, fit into slave/fork, and adjust nuts/locknut up, till the clutch fork has just a few mm of freeplay

 

A spring to hold fork towards slave cyl, helps keep thrust brg off clutch cover teeth.

[Andrew_L26]

If you go into bunnings you can get a "Dyna Bolt" which has a really nice taper at the end, fitting neatly into the slave. Then it just needs to be cut to length.