HKSZ Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Can anyone recommend a 88mm piston without going custom. If I was to build a stroker I might want to go under 3.0l to save PRC minimum car weight Quote
dat2kman Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Have a look at Isuzu G200 engine pistons, shorter pin height, and you can finish the tops off how you want. Flats, flats/flycut, slight rise with flycuts or shaped lumpy. They come in 87.5 But are not high end forgies....... Quote
Enzo Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I have for my new engine 88mm forged Pistons from Eiji at datsun Spirit in the USA. Mine have a 29mm pin height to suit the longer rods, but they can be supplied to suit standard rods. Check his web site. David Quote
Triptych Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 This is helpful as I was about to be chasing the same info as I only want to take my block to 88mm (f54 block) as I am staying turbo and wanting a forged bottom end. Quote
dat2kman Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Eoji's 88's at 29 pin height with 133 mm rods on a 79 stroke crank will be under 2900 Longer stroke will push them out of the deck x stroke increase. A shorter rod ie 130 and crank welded and reground x3mm will get it upp into the 2900's Have you had the block sonic tested to see what bore wall thicknesses are like? Quote
HKSZ Posted February 14, 2015 Author Posted February 14, 2015 datsun Spirit is my fall back option, I think I had isuzu truck pistons in an L18 rally motor PRC 2500-3000cc =1090kg 3000-3500cc =1180kg really if I'm going to spend $$ for custom I want the biggest bang for buck 3.1 but it's a big weight penalty what sucks is a datto 1600 can stroke 50% to 2.4 and still be under 1030kg Quote
Enzo Posted February 14, 2015 Posted February 14, 2015 My rods are 139.5mm with the 29mm short skirt forged Pistons and using the std crank. About 2900cc with the 88mm pistons. Deck height is good. Block has been sonic checked, deburred and line bored with the ARP main bolts fitted and tensioned. All the good stuff. David Quote
pauly_adams Posted February 14, 2015 Posted February 14, 2015 Toyota camry 1MZFE pistons are the go , you just need to ream out the gudgon pin a little, and presto Quote
600Z Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 Mhale forged pistons, you get the VW 88mm ones in the big bore kits so you might have to buy two and make sure you get the forged ones. The ones I had, had coated skirts for less friction and 1mm piston rings. The pin height is 1mm lower so the pistons will have to have a skim taken off the top as well as your small end of your con rods will have to be bored out for the slightly larger gudgen pin. Then drill two oil holes about 45deg from vertical for your gudgen pin oiling (the pin should be a clearance fit on the rod as the pistons have circlips holding the gudgen pin in. Any engine reconditioner can do this. I used these a long time ago and found them very good so I'm guessing there still available. Justin Quote
600Z Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-88mm-x-69mm-Forged-Slip-In-p/mahlet188f.htm http://www.volkswagenrestore.com/bus_proddetail.php?prod=198880&cat=76 Those are the Mhale pistons I was talking about, most of the VW performance shops would be able to get them for you. Quote
HKSZ Posted March 5, 2015 Author Posted March 5, 2015 i would never have thought to look at VW, the problem is the engine builder wont guarantee my motor when I start boring out conrods to fit Quote
dat2kman Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 Yep. Ot'll be a Driveway Warranty. At end of his driveway, warranty expires,,,, Have a look at largest oversize ACL pistons for Osuzu G200 engine, should be 88's They definately do 87.5's You need to use a L24 Conrod at 133mm, as these are short pin height, and depending on head chamber volume/shape, and gadket thockness, you can come out the bore a bit, even shape the top to get more sqish into chamber. These do require facing off a few mm to get flush with block. If your engine builder s a bit "vanilla " he'll prob go for this option. G200 sets are in fours, ie you need two sets. Are cheap and readily available. Quote
600Z Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 I have forgotten the gudgen pin diameter difference but its not much at all. I had them in a L20B 2.1 ltr engine with a lot of work done to it and I had no problem spinning it up to and sometimes over 7500rpm very often for 5 years before selling the car to a friend who eventually broke the crank from too many burnouts though I think the button clutch had a bit to do with that. The rods and pistons never failed or even looked like failing. A friend of mine put me onto them as he was running them in his drag car engine for a long time until he did a 2.4L series and used Murray Coote's head and 55mm webers off his 1200 rally car then he went to different ones but that's another story as he was on methanol. Anyway just putting it out there. Also what engine builder really guarantee's an engine..... they will always say.... oh it's been over reved or something as it will never be their fault. But I wasn't worried about a guarantee as I built the engine. Justin Quote
PZG302 Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 And I just happen to have a set of 133mm rods available if you need them..... Quote
jock Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 This is helpful as I was about to be chasing the same info as I only want to take my block to 88mm (f54 block) as I am staying turbo and wanting a forged bottom end. Interesting , In my 240z I have a stroker bottom end with prepped rods and 88mm forged pistons from SPS in Melb, also engine runs a custom P90 and a TO4e comp and .82 turbine, it has done probably less than 4000kms runs on Autronic management and goes very hard, I will sell engine for right price either complete or parted as I am returning car to N/A as it has way to much power for chassis. Interested?. Quote
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