Lead filling vs bondo / plastic fillers?

[gav240z]

Hi Guys,

So I wanted to get your opinions on this, lead filling used to be the old school method of panel repair, but with plastic fillers it became a bit of a dying art. I'm not sure if it was too time consuming or health reasons (the lead being toxic?) or perhaps it was all about time invested for panel shops?

 

But I saw a video on Youtube a while ago where they now have 'lead free' versions of this kind of filler. Here is an example:

 

So I'm hoping to hear from the likes of Ledge / Lurch etc.. what their opinion is on it and what are the pro's and con's of using this stuff vs bondo / bog?

 

 

[Casper the friendly ghost]

when I did my apprenticeship in Denmark 15 years ago we used Tin not lead...

 

think they still do.. having wet weather and frost.. bondo or plastic filler would fail in 2 sec..

 

not sure what they do in Australia..

 

But I heard many time "I can do it cheap but it will only last 2-3 years.."

 

or "do you want it to be permanent"

 

 

[PeterAllen]

You can do it at TAFE, just ask Gary or Mark.

 

It's often referred to as Lead Wiping.

[Ledge]

Gav, I will always lead load any FACTORY lead joint. like roof to C and A pillars. Sills to 1/4 or dog legs.

 

I wouldn't recommend lead in normal shallow dents in the middle of panels. Much easier and safer to

get the dent out with hammer and dolly or dent puller.

Fillers these days are good for 5mm+. Although I would not do it doesn't mean its no good.

 

Here is a local kit if you want to give it a go

http://www.metalmantools.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24&products_id=124

 

cheers

 

 

[gav240z]

Thanks guys yeah I'm thinking of giving it a go. I'm not at that stage yet, but will get there.

 

How about a sunroof repair and smoothing out to give that concave shape to it? I was told you could use a form of glue or adhesive (I know modern cars are literally glued together these days) to prevent warpage of the roof panel etc.. but I like the idea of a bit of old school approach to the repair - if that makes any sense what-so-ever?

 

 

[fly-s30]

Thanks guys yeah I'm thinking of giving it a go. I'm not at that stage yet, but will get there.

Very good question there Gav regarding the roof, as that area is of a delicate shape, and I'm guessing prone to movement due to sunlight/ heat.

Seeing the steel is really thin and there is no support offered in the centre, and after warpage from welding, would really need a lot of attention to correct any distortion.

 

How about a sunroof repair and smoothing out to give that concave shape to it? I was told you could use a form of glue or adhesive (I know modern cars are literally glued together these days) to prevent warpage of the roof panel etc.. but I like the idea of a bit of old school approach to the repair - if that makes any sense what-so-ever?

 

 

[Ledge]

Easiest way to get the shape is cut a section from another

car, doesn't even need to be a Z. But a bus roof would be

similar.  Once cut close to size get someone to hold it

on you roof and mark the other side through the sunroof hole.

 

Then oxy that thing in. Bit of a hammer on the weld line.  Jobs done

 

cheers

[EVIL_denver]

i have only used lead where the factory stress / flex points are (eg. roof to rear quarter). The quality of fillers these days is amazing, and like any else its the prep work that sets the difference. Look at it from a ethical point of view. Lets say you have a few door dings... buy the time you have preped the panel, melted the lead and filed it down it would have been much easier and quicker to use a slapper / dolly and panel file. Also a much cleaner job.

[fluegel]

I have used lead for years, I am not good at applying it but if you get enough thickness on the panel it will cut back very easily with a sharp body file and you sweep up the filings to remelt. It is important to pre- tin the panel ,which must be really clean and bright, with 50/50 (or 60/40) solder using bakers fluid as a flux, the body lead will not stick on its own to steel. You spread it when it goes pasty with a block of wood and some sort of lubricant such a sterine. I think you can build up thicker layers than bog without it falling off, it is my experience that it is very permanent. If you make your own alloy it is 70% lead and 30 % tin you can make it using 50/50 solder adding lead to the melt. you need to calculate the quantities. Crash supplies in Adelaide also sell it in sticks.

 

Richard