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L series parts cleanout - 280ZX 5spd $400

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Scando:
Hi all,

I have a buyer for the L28ET setup in my Z and am going to move to an RB engine. As a result I'm going to clear out all of my L series parts. As I find parts kicking about the shed I'll update this post. I'm happy to send interstate at the buyers expense but for most of these parts it will make it uneconomical.  I will consider trades for RB parts.

To get things rolling:

Patrol L28 - F54 block, N42 head. I haven't seen this engine running but the previous owner said it was running fine when he removed it to put a 302 in his Patrol. $300 SOLD

280ZX 5 Spd - No noise, synchros feel fine. $400

Sprung centre button clutch and HD pressure plate - $100 SOLD

Bare L28 F54 block - $50 SOLD
L24 from R30 Skyline - Spun bearing, high k's, fuel injectors, rail and maybe a couple of other parts missing. $50 SOLD

PM me if interested in any of the above.

Cheers,
Shane

jamo240:
Hey Shane

Good to hear you're going the RB route...let me know if you want any tips on how to do it, as mine is 95% complete now.

Cheers

Jamo

Scando:
Hey Jamo,

It's funny you mention it.  I was reading your build thread yesterday and was really interested about what you had done with the tail shaft.  I'm sure you'll get some pm's from me once I get into it  ;)  Going to stiffen the front end up a bit while the engines out so it'll be a long term project.  I think I'm going to go for an RB26/30.

jamo240:
Hey Shane

No problem...happy to tell you what I've learned through doing the install. I'll sort out a ''rear face of block'' location for you so you can put the engine in the right spot to be able to use the std R33 prop shaft...I'm happy with where the engine is, as it puts the gear stick in exactly the right spot to exit through the std rubber gearbox boot in the right spot, although you could move it back about an inch further than where I put it for the ultimate in weight balance.

I have an RB30 short on the floor as I was also going to go that route, but didn't in the end for three main reasons:

- Couldn't package the std two piece RB25 inlet manifold...the RB30 block being taller puts the manifold too close to the hood (I wanted the std manifold because it has longer inlet runners and better torque than the shorter RB26 ''copies'' that most people fit). My engine is installed on the original crankshaft centreline, and the inlet manifold comes closest to the hood at the front (actually it's the duct going into the manifold that gets the closest...about 25mm clearance to the hood)...if you add the extra ~35mm RB30 deck height it fouls).
- Didn't want the extra weight of the RB30 block...being taller, it's heavier than the RB25, and RB installations are a battle against weight as everything you have to do to support the installation adds weight to the car.
- Didn't really think I needed all the complexity to get the combo to work (eg custom rods and pistons to get the right CR, changes to get the VVT working etc), given the VVT RB25 has mountains of performance potential. The 25/30 combo is all about tyre frying torque or drag racing outputs, which i just didn't need for a strong roadcar.

Just some things to think about, as an RB26/30 combo will be about the heaviest/most complex configuration you could come up with (heavy block, twin turbos etc)....BUT...it would look cool and if it was sorted out would pull the road right out of the ground!

Jamo

Scando:
Sco_Aus sent me a pic yesterday of where his engine sits using 200ZR mounts and I reckon that's the way I'll go.  Would have been nice to be able to use the standard R33 tail shaft with no modifications as yours looks like a great setup but I need to get the engine very close to the firewall for weight distribution.

I've got a couple of friends that I race against running RB30DET's and they seem to make massive power with minimum effort which is why I'm keen on building one.

The inlet manifold is the main reason I'm leaning towards an RB26 head.  If I use an RB25 head I would need to buy an aftermarket forward facing plenum to make it fit and I'd want a bigger throttle body too.  So in the end it should work out about the same as buying an Rb26 head which already has the forward facing plenum and ITB's.

Whichever engine I built I would be going forged pistons and rods so the overall cost won't be much different whether I build an RB25 or 30 bottom end.

I'll run the single GT3540R I had on my L28.  I was running a .63 exhaust housing on that which was too small.  I've just purchased a .82 exhaust housing (thanks Vindicare  :) ) which should be perfect.  I plan to run minimum 9:1 compression (maybe more like 9.5:1) on E85.  I want about 300-350rwkw without running too much boost or reving it too hard.  With the extra capacity, high compression, and lowish boost it should make the power delivery nice and smooth.  If it does come on too hard I'll run the boost control through the Haltech and stage it.  If it makes strong power from 3500-7000 rpm then that will be a plenty wide enough range.

This setup should also allow me to make much more power in the future if I can get the car setup well enough to use it and if I can afford a drivetrain strong enough to take it.

Good point about the weight.  I might do some research into the weight of the bigger block and crank.  If there's a big difference then I might consider an RB26 bottom end.

Thanks for all of the info, it's very much appreciated.  I'm still getting it all together in my brain and trying to work out what will be the best way to go for what I'm after  :)  I don't want to re-invent the wheel, just copy what people smarter than me have done well  ;D

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