jalexquijano

I have seen many people upgrading their rear drum brakes to brake discs on their 240z. Is this really worth? I just use the cars during weekends but sometimes feel i do race it a lot and want more control during stops. Is it really worth for this application? If so which kit and Brand is the best?

This is a picture of the 6 spark plugs in the following order of cylinders 6-5-4-3-2-1. This ishow they came out after long idle time during traffoc jam last saturday. I have already lowered the mixture knobs on both carba to 2.5 turns and have installed new spark plugs to test.

Do you have pictures of your engine bay to see how you solve this issue???

Any other opinions asides from adding more heat shield or wrap? How come some users do not suffer from this issue.

1600 Dave, Thanks for your kind advice. I already insulated the metal fuel rail with header wrap and besides of the stock metal heat shield that is fastened to the intake, i added additional heat shield extensións that covered the 3 screws Su Carburetors fuel bowls. However, the problem persists, ngk bp6es spark plugs get fouled in traffic and once fouled car acceleration becomes sluggish and misfires. Please find attached pictures of my engine with the shields and the wrapped fuel line. THis problem needs to be solved in someway. I am using an AIRTEX 8012S fuel pump and my cam is a Schneider 274F. Motor has been overhauled to 2.6L with oversized pistons.

Just installed a coolant reservoir tank to my champion 3 row radiator. It´s working better now. Anyway, the car is still presenting some sluggish acceleration when stuck on a 5 to 10 mins short traffic. Can someone explain to me why if i pull out all the NGK BP6ES spark plugs and brush the carbón off, the car accelerates fine? I have both of my carbs set to 3 turns clockwise. If i lower it more, i start loosing power at 1st gear.

Should i trust my stock fuel temperature gauge Reading during traffic jams for long periods? It is dialing 3/4 of the gauge!! and 160°F with a laser heat gun! Anything to worry? Also when you accelerate the acceleration becomes sluggish and the car misfires.

I am tired of having to adjust my rpm to 1200 in order to use my Air Conditioner on my 1972 240z. I dont want to mess with the Vacuum and would prefer an electrical idle raise solenoid that kicks in when the compressor is turned on. Which one is recommended and how do i wire and install it?

what is the size of this overflow bottle? i bought one that is 2 X 13" same type as yours and it does not fit. It touches the bottom of the engine frame. i have a champion 3 row radiator.

my engine and carbs have been already tuned up! I installed a set of NGK BP6ES and have gap them to 0.031. If using a pertronix ignitor module and pertronix flamethrower kit should i gap them to .034? I guess i need more spark at idle.

I just remember that i bought this car it used to have the MSA TWICE PIPES set up and it never caused any deceleration backfire popping. Now with this one whenever i reléase the gas pedal on 2nd and 3rd gear i am experiencing a pop pop pop sound at the muffler. this MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST KIT comes with an Xcelerator Turbo Muffler: http://www.a-1performance.com/XLerator_mufflers/ This is the one i had before: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/spring02a/15-6031 Now do this additional information can help solve the puzzle? Will adding a resonator or glasspack in the middle cancel the deceleration popping at the exhaust?

Just installed a coolant reservoir tank to my champion 3 row radiator. It´s working better now. Anyway, the car is still presenting some sluggish acceleration when stuck on a 5 to 10 mins short traffic. As advised previously my car engine is modified to 2.6 with oversized pistons and i was wondering if using a hotter plug such as NGK BP5ES will solve the problem when coming out of idle in order to obtain a smooth acceleration or this has nothing to do at all?

thanks!

Any picture of a correctly burned spark plug? I have dialed both fuel mixture / jet adjustment knobs to 4 turns clockwise and set timing to 12 BTDC Should i also race the car for 10 mins and suddenly shut the engine down before taking the plugs number 2 and 5 to verify if they are both burning dark Brown

Buy the airtex 8012S 5.5 to 9 psi electric fuel pump! It should work fine!

i read that the gap that ztherapy had originally set was 9/16

Have watched the Ztherapy´s SU CARBURETOR TUNING video several times. Even though i have adjusted the idle speed on both su carbs and balanced them, i still cannot get a precise Air Fuel Mixture as the video does not explain how many turns clockwise should you turn after the initial setting of 2.5 turns clockwise. I am at 3. 5 turns on both carbs. Any other more precise method than the gunson colortune? Should i race the car for 10 mins and suddenly shut the engine down before taking the plugs number 2 and 5 to verify if they are both burning dark Brown??

My car has no mechanical pump. Only the Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump besides the gas tank which is pushing 3 psi. Anyway, I was wondering if replacing this stock manifold with a ceramic coated header will solve my fuel percolation issues? How much difference in temperature between the stock manifold and the ceramic coat headers? Any pros and cons? How about issues during traffic jams? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19c/15-6012CH This one looks amazing! Maybe it could radiate less heat than the stock manifold. Any cons???

I am experiencing an issue with the emergency brake light at the dashboard. It does light up when i pull the emergency brake lever. However if the lever is down it lights up dimly on the dashboard. I already topped both of the master cylinder reservoirs with DOT4 fluid and the light is still showing up at the back very dim. I did notice that there is female cable connector attached to the terminal of the sensor underneath the master cylinder. Do i need to clean this sensor? something is not grounding properly i believe. Anyone?? My car is a US model 1972 240z.

I had to fully remove my stock manifold in order to replace the 3 studs that bolt to the downpipe of the MSA Exhaust kit, as one of them was broken. Anyhow, during the reinstallation process I was wondering if replacing this stock manifold with a ceramic coated header will solve my fuel percolation issues? How much difference in temperature between the stock manifold and the ceramic coat headers? Any pros and cons? How about issues during traffic jams? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19c/15-6012CH This one looks amazing! Maybe it could radiate less heat than the stock manifold. Any cons??? Whats your opinión?? Just received that 280zx blower fan and it does not blow enough air to push the heat from the manifold away!

Which needles do you recommend?

Buy a Sanden 508 compressor. My 1972 240z has one and Works perfectly!

Do you guys remove the pre-heater tube that is fastened to the block under the su carbs? Maybe this is also a source of heat and removing it may help with the fuel percolation issues!

Well ill increase the gas mixture to 3.5 turns clockwise to see if there is any effect on get the plugs richer. By the way, my coil is a pertronic 1.5 ohm flamethrower coil compatible with the petronix 1761 ignitor module.

Just bought a 12 X 24 heat barrier adhesive sheet to paste to the stainless Steel heat shield extensions. Should i only cover the part that faces the manifold or should i also cover the one the faces the SU CARBS Fuel Bowls? https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K