jalexquijano

Which switch?

I disconnected the female plug and the light when off. Bingo. You were right. How do i fix this then? Should i open the proportionate valve?

I am experiencing an issue with the emergency brake light at the dashboard. It does light up when i pull the emergency brake lever. However if the lever is down it lights up dimly on the dashboard. I already topped both of the master cylinder reservoirs with DOT4 fluid and the light is still showing up at the back very dim. I did notice that there is female cable connector attached to the terminal of the sensor underneath the master cylinder. Do i need to clean this sensor? something is not grounding properly i believe. Anyone??

Give me a better response.

Just changed the cap, rotor and Brand new ngk bp6es spark plugs on my 1972 240z. Cranked the car and after 20 minutes of idling spark plugs 3 and 4 are sooty matte black not oily. Is this normal??? how do i get rid of this. My compression test marked 180 psi for all 6 cylinders. The weird thing is that it only shows up on spark plug 3 which is fed by the front carb and spark plug 4 which is fed by the rear carb. Both of my carbs are 3 screws round top remanufactured by Z therapy in dec 2014. SPark plugs are NGK blue type and distributor is original Hitachi with pertronix ignitor module and ignitor flamethrower coil. Car accelerates and has no problem at high rpms.

Last saturday i decided to lift my car on an elevator and was wondering i should change the bushings on the rear control arms as shown. If so, what kit is recommended and which supplier in the US?

well it Works with my 1972 240z with 1.5 pertronix coil and ballast resistor. The problem is to try and figure out how to avoid the needle fluttering at idle.

The needle never flutter in the past. Really strange.

Last saturday i decided to install a pertronix ignitor 1761 module with 1.5 coil asides from replacing the 4 year old battery with a 12 volt 600 amp brand new battery. Even though i have cleaned and tightened all the female and male connectors at the coil, i am still experiencing some needle fluttering when the car is at idle. Is this normal or could it be fixed? Do i need to widen the gap between the ignitor sensor and the magnet Installed in the distributor? I read in one fórum that for single point distributors this is not needed. Anyway, i also noticed that when the engine is warming up the needle does remain steady at its idling rpm.

Took the car for a ride yesterday and had to dial both fuel mixture knobs to 4 turns clockwise. 3 or 3.5 turns simply dont work. Could this be attributable to the fact that my engine is not stock and has been modified to 2.6Liters with a Schneider 274F camshaft and pertronix ignitor module and coil? I would really like to set it to 2.5 or 2.75 turns clockwise but it becomes to lean and lacks power. I will test the car today without the airbox fastened to the carbs to ease the adjustments if necessary. Airtex 8012SX pump is only pushing 3.2 psi.

Well i tried using the sight glass method to set the gap between the float and float lid in the best possible way. I have posted pictures for your opinion on the levels. The first one is the rear carb and the last one is the front carb.

Im just asking for a recommendation on a good fuel pump.

well maybe the pump is crap!

Recently purchased a couple of Airtex 8012SX which advertise as 5.5 to 9 psi. Once plumbed into the fuel lines when measuring the PSI before the carbs, the fuel pressure gauge reads 3.2 psi. I guess this company must be going through quality control issues: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/ I was recommended a Carter 4070LP fuel pump: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/ Will this pump provide a steady 4 to 4.3 psi??? I just dont want to be wasting money and effort on cheap non feasible electric pumps.

I really need a steady 4 psi electric fuel pump. Is this carter 4070 any good? I read its noisy but will it give me the required 4 psi?

i already set it to 9/16 (.55 inch gap) from the bottom of the float to the edge of the float lid and i still have to turn the mixture knobs 4 turns clockwise when it was supposed to be 2.5 - 3 turns clockwise. Does the tang needs to be pushed a little bit more thus closing the gap less than .55 inches? Still dont understand the 1/16 inch below nozzle method at 2.5 turns.

Okay. So it doesnt matter if the gap is measured with the weight of the float closing the needle stem when the gap is .55 or 9/16 inch? Its really hard to accomplish this measurement blowing through the gas hole to keep the needle pin from depressing. I am using a wooden stick that measures .55 inches.

2 Questions: 1. Does the float needs to be parallel to the float lid when measuring the .55 inch gap or can it be bent or incline downward? 2. Is the measurement taken from the base of the lid to the bottom of the float or from the edge or rim or the float?

At the rear of the car. Besides the gas tank.

Front and rear carbs? Should i bend the tangs more??

Installed long needle valve and seat in front bowl and short in rear carb bowl, set the gap to .55 inches and tuned it to 2.5 turns clockwise. Engine stumble and falls. Increased to 3.5 turns clockwise and it backfires through intake. Could one of the neddle and seat fastened at the bowls be damaged?? This is not normal. My electric pump is brand new and is measuring 3 psi.

i thought 3 psi was still low. How can i verify that both the front and rear needle and seat are in working order? I ordered a new set from amazon.

How do you know if the needle and seat is damaged or not? I took one of them out of the float lid and blew some air and the stem was indeed working! Please advise.

What a beautiful engine!!!

Still cant understand why this pump has lost volume. Its the third time i replace this pump which initially dialed 4.2 psi and now due to leaving it running without cranking the engine diminishes to 3.2 psi