Clockwork

Huh.. Glad mine is well oiled.. I thought AC was fairly common on 260's?

Humm. I thought a cab chassis option was just a modern thing to let the customer decide which option they would like (tub/flat tray). Most utes can have either can't they? Unbolt the tub, stick a tray on. I dunno tho. I'll stick with my D21 till it dies, which should be never.

ah well, times change.

I really dislike that tv car ads are starting to refer to their vehicles as 'trucks' now instead of 'utes'. thats all..

I own matching: 07/1974 L26-093763 GRS30-000718

Ok, I only saw one 260z manual (haynes), but wasnt in particularly good condition, so probably best to buy one new, but there is a service manual for 260c and L23(?!) But for other Datsuns and makes and models, I just found a huge stash at an antique store (hundreds of manuals). Here are a couple of pics. If you are after something in particular let me know and i can have a look - Only charge will be price of manual (seem to be between $15-45) + postage. sorry for the pics, phone camera has 'issues' focusing..

My 1/4 normal/deep Stanley set has been a life saver on a few occasions (up to 14mm). Repco is good if no sales on and you have an RAC card (at least in tas) save 20%. Nubco. Markets are the best. Especially for all good second hand landscaping hand tools.

Ah not to my knowledge. He was great to deal with earlier when I rang him. Very helpful for my own su questions. For needle issues I still think the wogsrus post with the google doc is the best ('help identify my/these carbs' thread)

The one I mentioned your looking at anywhere up to about $280 per carb depending on what's wrong (butterflies/shafts/kit only). Also has stopped getting them set for the car, too much work for the price.

I think this is the guy who has been recommended to me by a number or people as being a very good su rebuilder/tuner. Not sure on prices. Only 2 mechanics mentioned to me in Tassie as being such gurus and I'm pretty sure this is one (claims of being able to just plug carbs back on and require no tuning from a couple of people). http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/invermay/automotive/pro-carb-tasmania/1005355966 https://m.facebook.com/pages/Pro-Carb-Tasmania/255282818003372

Awesome. Thanks. Now I just need to learn how to weld. And get a welder

They do quote for a 280c (l28, l28e), i forgot to ask when I talked to them today. the kits are the same for the L24, L26, with a Hitachi system, to replace points with part number GH203 - cost is $132 plus GST ($145.20) plus postage. I reckon I'll get one, because im always checking, regapping and replacing points, and I kinda wanna keep as many original parts. I dunno how that compares to the price of getting a 280zx dizzy, and how they compare in terms of output, but meh. attached is the pdf of makes and models. all prices are pretty similar I think (I got quotes for my navara (z24) and corolla (4k) also - only $8 in it. that was just the points replacement and not the coil with it - the ebay store looks like you would add ~$100 http://stores.ebay.com.au/Pertronix-Australia/Pertronix-Ignitors-/_i.html?_fsub=3437130011&_sid=777022241&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 46864_73f9a1dd96dbf1c691064844e1e4c656888fb082.pdf

Let us know how it goes - mine are rooted too

I saw Scoota G mentioned a pertronix ignition system to replace mechanical breakers. I cant find any other mention on the forum so just wondering if anyone has installed this in their Z (or other car) and what you think.? Cheers.

Brilliant! +1 to the 260z

Humm, I was just comparing your needle tests (SM, BAX, BCH) to the needles currently in my l26 - HS6's with BBK needles. Im not totally sure what to make of the comparison, considering the differences in engines, however, Mine start leaning out at about station 7, which is probably having a negative impact at higher revs. I just replaced my sparks, which to my inexperienced eyes looks to be either quite normal or maybe a bit of high speed glazing (according to that picture scale in the haynes manual and posted on this site in colour). This is the part that confuses me somewhat, as the car is running quite rich (smell and sound), yet seems to drop power at high accel, but the plugs dont appear to be burning overly hot (NGK BP6ES). Who else has some SU HS6 Carbs on a stock l26, and what needles are you running? I also cleaned my carbs up somewhat a few days ago, turns out my rear dashpot cover is a "front" cover (turned 90 degrees to make screw holes line up) - doesnt seem to be an issue as it doesnt really do much, unless it affects suction. biggest issue I found is that my springs are different lengths, which is the reason my rear piston falls back more slowly (carby cleaner has fixed this somewhat though, it was sticking a bit).

Hehe the xj is the only jag I don't like.. tho id still take one over the cedric

Makes me think of that classic aussie movie - The Big Steal

wow, this is very inspirational, and what a shed!

Looking for some straps for Edit: 0. One of mine is a little bit frayed and I don't think it will pass roadworthy. In tassie, can't really collect unless close by but postage fees no issues Cheers Joel Edit: seems I mqy have found all the parts I need :-) time to start a journal page perhaps. And to donate to keep this great resource going!

Where are you getting needkes from WogsRus?

*bump* Curious about this thread, did you work out a solution in the end Lee?

erm, sorry, if you meant what bushes im chasing, im thinking I will have to do the works, from what i've seen under the car most of the rubber is in some stage of perishing, so i figure it will be best to do the lot in one sitting

Nah, im just seeing whats out there. Its going to be a second daily drive for a while before I put special interest plates back on. Im not wishing to spend a fortune on it atm, just need to get it back on the road (stupid tassie road laws), at a later date I will be stripping it right back and building it up again, but no time soon.

Thanks for the replies. Noltec = Whiteline yeah? Comparing Nolathane and Whiteline, Whiteline seems to have more range - Nolathane didnt show any rear bushings. Thanks for the link to Online Performance, though looking at the kit they offer, it seems to be same price I was quoted at Bursons for Supapro gear. ($240 Full - $125 for rear kit) i'll do a bit more research n see where I end up