fly-s30

still for sale

Hi Starting this thread as I'm about to go down the road of looking for an engineer for the SR/Z conversion What i would like to know from those of you who have used an engineer is: What engine was your conversion done with? Box? Diff? What items did you want to include in the build, but told you couldn't? i.e aftermarket computer, top mount turbo, structural welding, coil overs? Was suspension modified?What was done? How was it treated by them? Your limits to wheel sizes? Where there any structural modifications granted? i.e rails modified, custom mounts, x member, rad support reinforced Most importantly, who where the engineers, and would you recommend them to anyone else? Post up links to your build, and the relevant pages Thanks a lot already! Cheers Darius

I can recommend the Kemppi brand, having used a variety of their machines over the years, from stick, mig and tig. For their entry level tigs, there is the MiniArc Tig, in single phase 15A DC up to the recently available 220amp current. Is switchable from MMAW (Arc, stick) to GTAW (Tig) and has great stable current. It has individual power boards for either stick or tig, so your not left stuck with a dead and expensive circuit board blowout. Comes programable and has flexibility in pre/post gas flow and comes in H/F or scratch starts. Around $2500 new plus acc. For the Higher level is the MasterTig range in AC/DC single phase 15A configuration, and 3 phase. Delivering 230amp current. Again this can also be used as either stick or tig setup, and has excellent stable arc, with heaps of flexibility in programming settings comes in H/F or scratch starts. Around $5600 new plus acc. Does this help at all?

Any updates on this topic? Still 100% for f/g with pods!

Nizmozed In answer to your question, all fabrication will be done by us. Electronics are going to be outsourced. This is a good start. Cheers I will start looking at different options with engine and gearbox power v weight figures...3sge, ijzgte + r145, Sr20-z32 box, rb25. D3coy ill have a look, though it would be good to see what is currently going on localy and relatively recently due to pricing differences the earlier or later a build is done.

Hey all. I'm starting this thread to gauge what an engine conversion including engineering ends up costing at todays prices. Seeing prices of Sr20's being similar to rb's, the question needed to be asked. Open to all users and all engine swaps to post up. What was involved? What did you source? bit and pieces? Half cut? Full car? What conversion was in your opinion worth the cost? What did the engineer deem to be necessary alongside the swap? Any swaps worth a look into that arnt mainstream? Why is it worth it? Thanks in advance Darius

Let's see pics up!

Hey all have a set of headers on here for a l28. Unsure if out of 260z or 240k Make an offer. Vic only, and pick up only due to size. Pm for details.

Down for fibreglass, with speaker pods!

Hey everyone, wondering what struts would take minimum mods to fit in place of the standard struts. If possible what would be the mods need to be? By going down this road, the wheel sizes standard to those struts can be used with no probs & a free brake upgrade to boot! IIRC cutting and welding of suspension is frowned up come time to engineering. asking this as i dont have access to get a tape measure to my struts from the 260z...buried deep behind junk in the shed atm. Found this on a search before....full on mods to get you thinking. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1525949-project-steezee-1973-datsun-240z-lq9-v8-build.html

With what handsandwhich said, the hand controls are good if you are moving, but you can forget fine control in a hurry. Pedal is better for that one.

is zfactory the old zworx?

Second part of the trolley build. Once drawn and decided on heights it was mig welded together, and completed in about 6-7 hours with breaks. The pictures speak for themselves. The only thing needed is a support at the back of the block, as the mounts are rather far forward on the L28. With a bit of creative thinking this engine trolley/cradle can be made to suit any motor with engine mount.

Hey everyone! Seeing how long a rebuild can take on any car, storage is always essential. Faced with the same problem myself, I decided something had to be done. Though this is a little intricate, it was necessary as I needed maximum space savings in the garage. What I decided to do was build a low cost, simple and highly effective engine cradle/trolley for spare L28 that was inefficiently taking up heaps of room on a "temporary" generic trolley. What you will need are: Castor wheels, 4x 65kg capacity, free spinning- $16 from bunnings Tape measure and rafter square. Lengths of scrap steel tube and 2 bits of flat plate I had lying around. Drill and bits. Welder. Grinder and cut off wheel/saw. Angle finder/bevel square. Basically you need to determine a few things: 1: Overall height of block including sump. 2: Dimensions between engine mount bolt centres width and height off of lowest part of sump. 3: Clearance required. 4: Castor size 5: Tube size Here is what happened: Pics 1&2 Got motor out from its "temporary" hiding spot. Pics 3 Spent a couple of hours drawing up dimensions of, width, height, length, mounting bolt centres, mount angles and most overall dimensions from the block. Researched weight of long block...160-180kg? Pics 4 Found scrap tube, bought castors to suit weight, and drew up base frame to suit desired sump to floor clearance, and the irregular offcuts that was going to be used.

Damn! Clean and simple but modern. The new headlights give the front end a sparkle. Im taking notes for what to do and parts in need. 3M is pretty dependable stuff. Not topic related, but is that a diff and chassis rail mod? Is it engineered?

All very good points. Thanks for posting! This is by far the best forum full of facts with no attitudes. And its all from local fellas. Couldn't have asked for a better group!

That looks great! Can you recommend your blaster? Mix and match like what you did sounds like the way to go. Epoxy/POR How long ago did the primer go on? Is the car driving? If so, how well did the underbody treatment fare to road use?

PM sent.

Are there any shops that can be recommended to do chassis straightening in Melbourne? The car is on a rotisserie atm so everything is accessible. Anticipated costs? Are there other ways to do this?...cost effectively? Read: At home! I was reading a Unique cars magazine about 5-6 months back, and there was this guy Australian in Malaysia who was restoring mustangs for the aussie market. He had a rolling frame with wheels, and IIRC, the chassis was mounted to the chassis on all-thread which could move the chassis at those points...like a jig. Would this work if the structure/cowls/rails were removed then re-welded to correct dimensional checks? Would it re-twist?

This IS a primer, which is sandable. This is not a top coat. You might have misunderstood. Does that change anything?

Yeah lucky for the shop! Most of the repairs are done, so anything that will come up will be minimal rust wise, other than bogged areas. No opinions on the powdercoat as yet? If it etches in to the steel like a polymer, wouldnt it be a superior coating to the polymer, being that its zinc? And zinc is exactly what is used in hot dip galvanising. We have all seen structural steel popping up on houses in beachy areas and it shows no sign of corrosion. After blast, any protective coat would need to be applied quick smart to reduce the chance of corrosion, and the product is only as good as its coverage. From memory, powder coating is electrostatic? Ferrari uses that system on its body's Powdercoating Pros: Covers well, Baked in- no moisture, bakes hard, easy to sand Cons: Bakes hard, cant do it at home- higher costs, unknow long term results? Does this sound correct? Oh yeah and FYI this is from Comet powdercoating in Dandenong opposite Mikes gym/ Dohertys

Merry Xmas to you all. 3 cheers to a safe and productive 2013 that is now possible due to the fact the world has not ended ...yet. Yep ebay is still open today!

So what are your opinions on the options above reverend? Epoxy? POR? Powdercoat?

Great link! Got "how to make your car handle" & "tune to win" in santas sack so all is well for summer reading. Thanks again!

Any ideas on controlling rust in areas such as the pillars, and front quarter structure, inner rocker, door internals? Pillars have no access and some areas need protection but cant get a spray gun in there.What to do in these instances?