Mooa42

Just saw this 2 seater 260z for sale in Sydney on bmsc rally website. No idea of condition but look straight enough in the pics? http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/rally-cars-sale/32625-260z-rally-car.html

Here's some pics of the bonnet. Feel free to make an offer.

I have a stripped straight one with some minor rust in the front edge in Bendigo Vic. Has been stripped many years ago and now covered in surface rust but straight and apart from the small rust it is pretty good. Let me know if it is of interest and I can get some pictures of it. Tony

Yes, mine was built by a friend but may not suit your other requirements, unless you make up some sort of temporary floor. The open mesh is good for tying the car on and good for cleaning a muddy rally car too. It's a bit hard to see in the photo but the trailer tilts from the back of the A-frame which means you can use shorter lighter ramps and still get low cars on. Also has the two pipes on the front where I slide my winch in if and when I need it. Plus the wheel stop is removable if you have a low spoiler or different length car. Cheers Tony

I can give the thumbs up for the H6, I used a 2008 3.0R spec B wagon for a while and it tows well. My trailer is a a lightweight rocker arm with a bed 1700 wide and just 4m long (the bed), I think it weighs 285kg? or maybe it was 385kg. Only advice I can give with the Liberty is to get as smaller trailer as you need as it help keeps the weight down and it is easier to tow with the smaller car.

Some might say they didn't want it to fall off, I like to think it was to stop the ute rolling away.

I'd think long and hard before doing your own, the difference between a good cage and a bad cage is as much about the fit as it is the design and welding. One wrong bend in the main hoop could loose you any cost savings you were hoping to achieve. At least if you try it yourself you will appreciate why people charge so much:) A good cage design and fit will have minimal if no gaps between hoops and body, I've seen a bond cage fitting so well that the front legs could be welded straight to the A pillars, (in a WRX) and I've seen so called professional jobs so badly done that I could fit my wrist between the A pillar and the front legs. You don't have much room in a Z so a good design is paramount, especially around your head/helmet area. If you want to get really serious you can actually design your own cage outside the parameters of the CAMS manual provided you provide the proper engineering to prove it will still withstand the forces required by the FIA. (As you might guess, this is an expensive process) There are some good cage builders in SA too so ask around locally. The last cage I had done came from the UK (not a Z ) and I had it tig welded in here in Vic through Peter at Freak Motorsport Fabrications. I can't recommend his work highly enough.(He's on facebook) Bond bolt in's are a good thing and I've seen many of these fitted but nothing like a Bond weld in, you get what you pay for.

Just brought a set of these. Our local Toyota dealer had four boxes in stock, Still $110 for a box (1 pair) came with globes too.

If you couldn't afford a 1600, you got a 180B and if you were mad you got a 240k for the reasons PZG302 stated. Here's some 240k in-car from SA in 2011. It is scary to watch even before he crashes; both were sore but okay. 1 less 240k.

Haven't got around to mounting these yet but I have got a price ... Retail expected to be $3,900 I got mine through the Bendigo Tyre Centre, They haven't received any feedback on the rear setup question yet but they can reline the rear shoes in similar material.

I have asked about retail price and rear setup, although I assume if a rear setup was available he would have ordered it too. As you said you can get your rear brake shoes relined with the Project U (mu) material and I have had this done on another car (not a z) and been very happy with their performance. Hopefully I'll have some answers before the weekend. Cheers Tony

I’ve been meaning to (and I will get around to) posting a build thread for our Z but these turned up for it today and I got excited and thought a few of you might have been interested. A friend, who is a project mu dealer, saw that they had released a direct bolt up kit for Z’s and ordered it for me. Probably overkill for what our car will be used for but very nice looking kit. Comes with 2 piece 300 x 28mm rotors and high carbon discs, 4 pot callipers that bolt up to the original mounts, pads and braided lines. Size wise it fitted into the 15” wheel he had at his shop but I suspect it may not suit all 15” wheels as the calliper comes out almost flush with the wheel mounting surface. Rough calcs had it needing about 320mm of room for disc and calliper but the wheel we used had 340mm and I don't think you'd want it much closer. When I get the car back from the panel beaters, (it's painted just needs the grill and mirrors done) I'll bolt these on and let you know how they go. I haven’t got the invoice yet but I’m expecting between $2 to $3k

Guys I have heard back from the Z store and Drift monkys kit has been sent, (not sure when) so it will hopefully turn up soon if it hasn't already but he is waiting on conformation from D3cOy and St_Mok. Can you guys shoot me an e-mail if this is not the case and I will follow it up? Cheers Tony

Let me know what date you placed the order and I'll follow it up. the process for me was; 1. they contacted me, I went online and filled in the order and my credit card details 2. In the comments field I filled in a quote number given to me by the Z store via e-mail 3. I then received an e-mail confirming the cost with postage 4. 6 days later I get a huge box of rubbers 5. Me happy Anyway let me know and I'll follow it up. Tony

Just thought I'd let you know that my rubber kit with glue and rivets arrived this morning. The package left their depot on Friday the 14th arrived at my office on the Thursday the 20th; NICE