Veloce

Yeah i don't know what the go is there, the high bidder has dissapeared from Ebay it seems but i don't really mind, i was looking at his feedback history out of curiosity and he had more than one recent "won item but did not pay" type feedback. So , anyone that bids please have the funds and read the ad at least two or three times!! Ask me any questions you have, view the cars if you can etc. I'm getting questions like "how much rego is on it"

To be honest i'm a bit surprised myself, i'm not sure why so many people bid so early in the auction? Not that i'm complaining of course. I get the impression that 240z's will be out of the 'affordable classic' price range in the next 5 years at this rate. If that's the case the chances i'll own another one are looking pretty slim

Let me be clear here, the black car will not easily go back on the road, well it could but it would never drive right, to fix the front end properly you would most likely need to do a cut and shut with a good front end. Hence why i called it a parts car only! The rear end and roof are good though, it would make a good rear-cut for someones rear-ended car.

I just listed my 240z project car for sale (two cars included - see ebay description). To be honest i have no idea what they are worth considering it's an unfinished project, so a no reserve auction with a $1 start and i'll let someone pay what they think they are worth. I'm going to loose a lot of money but hopefully someone can make a good car out of the two and make some money back selling all the extra parts. I'm not interested in offers at this stage (unless someone wants to give me 10k!), so i'll let the auction run it's course. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Datsun-240z-project-cars-1971-and-1973-/261574001308?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3ce706829c Any Q's please drop me a private message. Cheers, Mike

Why not take it to Broken Hill? Nice and dry so she ain't going to rust! All you need to do is bolt on a Weiand, strap a pair of 200L drums on the back and paint it black

I saw that last night and was tempted to send a reply asking if they wanted to buy my project 240z for $30k... bargain!!

Lookin' good, i assume your panel beater plug welded from the inside of the car (drilled holes in the floor plan where the rails sit and filled with weld)? I''m almost done my floors now so trying to decide if i should plug weld or stitch weld from the bottom... or both.... what's everyone else done?

I wish there were more Z suppliers in the UK, i used to get a lot of parts from the UK from several suppliers (non-datsun), shipping cost very little and parts would arrive in 3-4 days, often faster than local suppliers. The US on the other hand, shipping seems to take forever and the shipping prices are often over the top but what can you do, that's where the market is. I've had good dealings with Datsun Parts LLC. I ordered some bushings from MSA about 6 weeks ago and they still haven't turned up....

Good stuff, quality looks top notch. How long do you reckon until i can order a set? Any idea on pricing?

I agree, removing the rails completely would be best, mine look ok on the outside but on further inspection (when i was patching the floor on the weekend), the inside of the rails is full of surface rust. So i can imagine all that surface rust juice dripping down onto the new rails

Good stuff, i'll be after a set for sure. Will the ID of your rails allow welding over the existing rails or will the originals need to be removed?

How are the full length under floor rails coming along? I like the Bad Dog rails but as always, shipping from the states is a killer...

I think it's about time somebody built an RWB "style" zed, of course you would have to be an ace with fibreglass/carbon fibre moulds

Whoa sorry guys didn't mean to start a sh*t fight! I come to this conclusion; Original drawing - measurements after mirrors have been installed on car, including allowances for mirror mounting base. Modified drawing - measurements for installation purposes (centrepoint for hole saw drill). Conclusion: - Both drawings appear to be accurate and essentially take you to the same outcome (+/- 5mm), just different ways of going about it.

Fair call guys, but the problem appeared to be that it was not clear and concise if people have made mistakes mounting them, hence why i was attempting to make it more clear... and that is not a personal attack on you HS30-H or anyone else for that matter. Please ignore my childish response above Having said that, if you guys feel my interpretation of the set-out is more confusing than the original one, you guys want me to delete it? I have no problem with that.