BobsYourUncle

+1 Are we talking cutting metal to make room?

I'm thinking it might be the floats after all - I quickly adjusted them (the carb on cylinder 5/6 in particular looked like it might not be closing the needle completely), and now it won't start, sounding like there's not enough fuel. I'll have to take the time to re-do them all again properly. I've got a small leak from the pressure regulator, which was making me think pressure too high, but now I think it's just a fitting not tightened properly. I have got a fairly significant leak from the mechanical pump somewhere though...

The regulator is new - maybe it's not working? I set the needles and floats up according to the Des Hammill book, but I'll double check them on the weekend.

Yes, the pump's working. Before, I had no return, and I had too much fuel pressure (carbs were flooding).

Ok, I put a 'T' inlet on the third carb, added a return line, and as expected, no start (no fuel pressure). What sort if restriction is needed?

I guess someone's got to be the first to buy one and see how it looks...

Something like this? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/350z01/50-1881 Although you'd need something that had pretty much no curvature for an S30...

What size/diameter restriction is usually used?

Resolved - it was the starter, all good now (well, it cranks and runs, but there's all sorts of other problems )

Got everything running again today with a new starter motor (thanks Matt/PZG302!). Fuel's going everywhere... Looks like I'm going to need a fuel return line afterall (current setup is just the mechanical pump through a regulator set at 3.5PSI, no return). The floats are moving freely, and the needles are all new and look fine. Without a fuel rail, how should I run the return line? Around the back of the engine, then back to the hardline at the front right?

They're the right size for a zed...

mtopxsecret6 - if you remove a rear wheel and drum, you should be able to tell pretty easily if these are the right type or not. I had the same problem as Pedro, I bought this type (n1339 is the part number I think), but my 74 2+2 needed the earlier n1350 shoes, which I couldn't find new, so I got my old ones re-lined.

Ok, with help from my lovely wife, I shorted the terminals on the solenoid, while monitoring the battery voltage. I got sparks on contact, but no cranking, and the battery was solid 12.5 - 13V. So I guess it's the starter motor. I'll try giving it a bash, but otherwise I think I'm up for a new starter.

There's only the one click from the relay, and I've tried a known good battery, so it shouldn't be that.

I'll give that a go tonight. That's bypassing the solenoid too, isn't it, so if it doesn't crank, it's definitely the starter motor? I've read somewhere that a VL/RB30 starter is a bolt-on swap, is that right? Might be more readily available...

My engine's decided to stop turning over - it's not just a flat battery, as I first suspected, nor is it the relay, as I've tried a new one (the car's been re-wired to use a relay rather than just through the ignition switch). The motor isn't seized, so I figure it has to be either the starter motor or the ignition switch. There was no gradual break down, one minute it was working, the next it wasn't. When I turn the key to start, the relay does click, so I'm leaning towards the starter motor. However I've heard that the ignition switch can die - I'm going to probe around with a multimeter tonight to see if it's making good contacts. How do you remove the ignition barrel from the steering column? It has two regular screws, but also two grub screws with no head, is there a trick, or do I need to drill them out? I guess I could cut a straight slot in them with the dremel... I've probed the connections to the started, it has 12V, GND, and a third connection that briefly gets some volts on it when I turn the key to start (less than a second, hard to measure). I'm guessing this is the signal that engages the solenoid? Shouldn't it be constant voltage when the key is at "start"?

I don't suppose anyone in the gold coast area has an engine crane that they're not currently using? I might need one next week, thought I'd ask if someone could lend me one before I go and but one...

Dellorto setup is as follows: chokes: 32mm main jets: 135 air correctors: 195 emmulsion tubes: 7772.6 idle jets: 50 pump jets: 35 And the air bleeds have been reduced to 0.9mm. The engine is an F54/N42 L28 with dished pistons (or so I believe, haven't checked), with extractors (standard ebay type) and 2.25 inch exhaust.

I don't know them off the top of my head, but I'll post them up when I get home tonight.

I've realised you can't really see in that video (don't know what the deal is with the funny aspect ratio???), but that's with the triples on. I've got them jetted correctly (or, at least, at what I decided was the best combo to start with), but the balance seems way off. I'll have to get a Synchrometer - they're supposed to be much more user-friendly than a unisyn, and they don't cost much more. Getting the engine running is definitely a very good feeling. Getting it to run well will be even better!

Looks like it could be a great buy, but the market is very slow at the moment, you might have to wait a while to find the right buyer.

Igor, it's alive!!!!! Horribly out of tune though. This wasn't the first start, as I didn't have a camera handy for that, but it did start first go (after a lot of cranking for the mechanical fuel pump to feed the carbs).

Do you know what the head/block versions are?

Wow this slipped to the 5th page... so slack. Brakes are all on and hooked up, and I got the hand brake working. Waiting for a kit to arrive to fix a leak in one of the rear calipers before I can bleed the system though. Came off my (push) bike the other week and busted my hands up a bit, which has slowed me down. I've spent the time doing lots of car research though, and I stumbled across a 200ZR sump and pick up at a very good price, so I'm thinking an RB25 conversion may be on the cards (even got approval from the other half!).

I really don't think it will do anything. We (the "western" world) just don't care about Africa. This Kony is just one man, what he's doing is happening all over central Africa, and it's not like it's a secret. Lurch's 2nd last picture (26 years too late) is very apt. If you want to help Africa, don't "like" some company's advertising video. Find an organisation that's actually doing something to help. Find someone doing research into nodding disease (how many people have even heard of that?), and give them some money. Or someone trying to provide safe sex education and AIDS information (or AIDS research). Stop buying diamonds. Actually do something! I saw a post on facebook that had a map of Africa, and asked you to click on Uganda. Could you do it? In the end, if this video does raise awareness of the huge problems faced in Africa, I guess it's doing some good. But please don't "like" the video, and think you've saved the world. Sorry for the rant, but this gets to me. The rest of the world's general ambivalence towards these issues is an absolute travesty.