leonZ

srry ment to put 'not' before v8 i can drive the 3ltr l6 one though ya? just not the turbo or v8 model. even though it seems the 3ltr version is the rarest ones about, can the turbos be turned off on the 2.5ltr to make it leagal? or can i claim the v8 (with towbar) as my work car as ive started a business and need to move heavy vending machines arond each one weighs about 350kgs and the trailer holds 2 at a time. other cars ive been looking at are bmw 525 93-96, silvas and skylines but ive been told there all cop magnets if your on p's. is there anything thats fast and not cop bait lol

i might just do that, been stressing that hard about having a daily driver didn't even think to drift the 260 now shes off the road that or i could tarp her up until i can find a body cheap. getting a wee bit off topic here but i need a new car and im thinkin about a toyota soarer preff a v8 one. has any1 owned one or just have any opinoins?

yes but they reckon it would cost more then the $7000 it was insured for....

heres a few pics of the damage

hey guys i got into an accident on austraillia day in my 75 260z 2+2 and now its has been written off buy the shannons guy, i brought the wreck back so now i have a whole cars worth of parts (damage was to the rear and roof). im tossing up weather or not to strip the car and sell the parts or to sell it as is, it has new extractors and 2.25 pipe to tip (less then a month old), british 3 screw su's (have a rebuild kit for them too). apart from that its all pretty much standard. ill put some pics up soon if anybody is interested in anything or the whole car just let me know its located in werribee i paid $1000 for wreck back so anything above that would be ok

not good to hear at all. what is it with ppl and hitting Zs mine got bashed in on Australia day. the Shannon's person is coming tomorrow morning but Ive already been told its a right off by the panel beater so I'm prep'd for the worse. theres a crease in the rear drivers pillar and a dint lined up with that just behind the drivers door, rear bar is pushed in and been ripped to the left and shes leaking fuel and theres about 8mm difference in gaps either side of the hatch......

hey guys ive put a bid in for this motor http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140375100751 and given my past experiance with buying engines (rb20 sohc) i think i better ask you guys if you can spot anything stupid about me thinking this could be a good engine to buy to do up or just use the manifold on my current l26?

ya im going to give drift a miss atleast for now. i think ill just keep restoring/ daily drive until i got enough cash to get another car to destroy lol. getting a bit off topic but how much have people lowered there zeds for road use?

I'm really not sure now , thinking I'm probably better off getting a bomb to learn in first though. cash is a problem at the moment though as I'm still just restoring the old girl so i got a bit of time to think more on if it'll be worth while or if i should keep going with what I'm doing, which is a rolling restoration and my daily drive

hey guys I've been wanting to try drifting for a while now and want to know what kind of mods ill need to get the power I'm after, weather or not its going to cost a fortune and if ill have to change over to manual transmission. atm the car is fairly standard it has bell tops, electric dizzy, extractors into 2.25 exhaust. I'm taking the car to B and M fuel systems on Monday to get a dyno tune as iv only had backyard mechanics tune it by ear up till now . so what else should i do to have a chance at drifting the old girl. any thoughts are welcome

im getting an exhaust put in tommorro and the shop recomended 2.5inch for my stockish l26 only mods i know of are 240z carbs and an electric dizzy should i ask for 2.25inch for the best power results?

ive done about 8,000kms little less and have done 5 oil changes thats since august when i got her registered

hey guys just wondering if any1 has had the capacitor off of the bosch coil fry and short out there car, as mine did and was making a the whole cars electrics die, no power to the starter or fuel pump then after taking 3 hrs to figure out what was broke i just removed the capacitor from the coil now the car is running again. but im wondering if the capacitor did anything?, ive been told its only there to stop static playing on the radio when you rev the engine but not to sure myself. any thoughts are welcome as im stumped lol

im running 3 screw belltop su's. the cars running better then it ever has since ive owned it anyways. im thinking ill wait till i go through this tank of fuel then take off and check the filter for rust if theres any in there ill have to flush the tank, theres no holes (had half tank after sitting for years) so im hoping the tank is still in ok nick just a bit rusty

ok i cleaned out my carbies yesterday as i thort one of the jets might be blocked and just made problems worse so i sat and figured might be blocked fuel line checked and changed the fuel filter and there was about a shot glass of rust in the old one i havn't changed the fuel filter since ive had the car so the old filter could be as old as the hills. will draining the tank from the drain plug get most of the rust out? or am i goin to have to take the whole tank out? and can the rust do any damage to the car or is it just going to get caught in the filter until i get the same problem again?

hey guys i messed my car up again :'(, hit a gutter dodging a dog i was only doing 30km/h into a corner i go through regualy but ya the dog ran on the road i didn't think an braked so the car locked up and went straight into the corner. i didn't hit it very hard (front drivers wheel was the only part of the car off the road) but the damge seems to be done i think the part thats broken is called the transverse its been twisted back a bit and the wheel sits about an inch further back then its ment to. the car drove home but did want to pull to the right a bit. anyway dose anyone know where i can get this part from in vic? (werribee area preff) thanks

hey guys i was lucky this time lol the guy was kool about it. only cost $25 in the end. on another note i had the car fixed (tuned) today it turned out what i thought was a drivline problem was the carbs/spark plugs. the mixture screw was 13 turns to rich the front carb sucked more then the rear and the spark plugs where dirty as becouse of the mixture also got told i should get hotter spark plugs, made a massive differance to everything lol. note to self never let mates tune your car for you and yes i know im a idiot lol

yes im trying to pull out but it's up to him i offered to pay to have it re-listed and give him a few $ to forget about it but no reply as of yet.....maybe ill learn to look more closely next time.

is there any reason why a supercharger wouldn't work on this engine, also is there much of a weight difference between the 2 engines?? trying to make this work lol....

is this srtuff all correct? There were a variety of 2.0 L RB20 engines produced: RB20E - single-cam (96 to 110 kW (130 to 145 ps) @ 5600 rpm, 167 to 181 N·m (17 to 18,5 kgf·m) @ 4400 rpm) RB20ET - single-cam turbocharged (125 kW (170 PS) @ 6000 rpm, 206 N·m (21.0 kgf·m) @ 3200 rpm) RB20DE - twin-cam (110 to 114 kW (150 to 155 PS) @ 6400 rpm, 181 to 186 N·m (18.5 to 19 kgf·m) @ 5600 (and later with a NEO-Head 4400 rpm) RB20DET - twin-cam turbocharged (158 kW (215 PS) @ 6400 rpm, 265 N·m (27.0 kgf·m) @ 3200 rpm) RB20P - single-cam (94 PS @5600 rpm and 142 N·m @2400 rpm) RB20DET-R - twin-cam turbocharged (210 ps @6400 rpm and 245 N·m @4800 rpm and the one i got is the top one yes? and a l26 puts out 121KW so ya 11kw less thats if wiki is right tho... ps. im sure my l26 isnt that strong anymore though

wait........ can it be turbo'd???

lol im a fkin idiot....... ah well at least it was cheap might find a use for it

hey guys i just found this on ebay and jumped on it becouse i couldnt belive the price $245 heres the add NISSAN RB20 SOHC ENGINE THIS ENGINE IS SECOND HAND AND FULLY IMPORTED FROM JAPAN. IT WILL REPLACE THE NISSAN SKYLINE RB30 SOHC / VL COMMODORE RB30 ENGINE OR SUIT CONVERSION. PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE IS NO COMPUTER OR LOOM AND NO DIZZY. CAN ARRANGE FREIGHT AUSTRALIA WIDE.

i ended up putting the oil through the bleeder to see if no oil in the diff was the problem i got about 300ml in there and it hasn't done any good i think i might wave the white flag here and call a mechanic. i have no idea what it is making the trouble, but the car is now limited to 75-80km/h anything over that and it sounds like a truck and has no rev response at all also makes the whole car vibrate like it did before i changed the uni joint, i have looked under the car a few times now and the things Ive noticed are, theres no grease nipple at the back wheels and one of the ends off the joints at the back wheel is sunken in about 2mm not sure if either of these things matter though. all thoughts are welcome before i give up and dish out some cash to a local scam merchant to fix it lol at least when the uni busted i could see the problem

OK quick question guys do i need to take the bottom or to plug bolt off, the bottom one is a half inch ratchet plug and the top one is a square bolt which is 3 or 4cm off center and about the same higher then the first bolt