Sirpent

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My youngest son Marcus has decided he wants to start saving for a car and has started a small business, having done some wheeling and dealing he is selling genuine NBA caps. You can buy these on line for US$25.00 + US$50.00 postage, but he is willing to sell them to forum members for AU$35.00 including postage within Australia and will donate $5.00 from each sale to the forum in return. The pisc are of one of the actual caps he currently has, these are great quality. If anyone is interested PM me and I will pass on your details. Cheers John

LOL Seems to describe my life actually, dips and dives ! And you mention "Love The Beast", well I never actually met Eric Bana (Banadinovic) but we did hang out at the same places at one stage, at the time I had an XC Cobra and of course he had his XB Coupe, I totaled the Cobra on the Eastern Fwy and got the Zed a month later and have had it for 27 years, so yeah maybe one day I will get my aspiring son who is working towards film making to do a backyard film on his crazy old mans flight of fancy. Cheers John

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr what to say what to say :-\ "Ummm Is that your sister?"

I have to be honest and say that this was meant to help Sam and I was being sincere in my attempts to help him but some of the comments here have gone totally off topic.

As long as its a 260Z it will be fine, the weight rating will be used based on mine for the engine capacity and if Bens chassis is slightly weeker it will show my chassis to have a higher % rating at the end, all good

Pete, What ever way works for you, I take it you had some interesting dreams as a result?

Simon these are tried and proven trade remedies, nothing untoward here at all.

Magic ! Jus seems a shame to hide all this work at the end, then again the performance gains will always speak for the fine work you did Pete.

Mick read pages 19-21 of this thread for the long explanation. Basically acceptable engine capacity as far as a retro fit is determined by its aspiration, a formula exists for current laws which uses the vehicles TARE weight to determine the maximum capacity allowed, in the case of forced induction this dramatically restricts capacities, in my case 3.2 litres of super charged motor is at the max allowable. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf The torsion and beaming test determines the vehicles base OEM capabilities, inertial forces caused by torque translate to torsional stress on the superstructure and with 450 nM of torque it will basically twist itself apart under load, after the chassis is built and installed, another test is done to advise the registration authorities of the % increase in torsional rigidity so as to satisfy them that the thing will hold up under driving conditions. As far as being to stiff, I believe that he is referring to 2 matters for consideration here, first the fact that this chassis will not carry the suspension therefore effecting how the body reacts at these points to the solid mounted drivetrain and the second with respect to frontal impact, this is why he mentions the steering shaft and the capability of the car to fold and absorb impact forces, in an accident, if the body dosnt absorb the impact, the human driver will by being pushed into the steering wheel, equal and opposite effects of the structures characteristics. Vibration and fatigue issues, No I doubt it, simple reason being that the entire drive train is not reliant on the original body, suspension mount point fatigue, possible but remote, I don't plan to drive this on the track more than once or twice just to see how it performs, 90% will be normal road use when its used. Hope this helps. Cheers John

Yeah Peter Mac and I had a long discussion about this one night, the car should really feel tight as a result but then it will all come down to setting up the suspension correctly with the right spring rates and dampening so it will be interesting to see how it drives. Short answer is yes, I will be able to mount up the entire drive train on the chassis then wheel it in under the car and into position which will be a God send rather than trying to suspend everything in place and do it that way. As far as removal, the engine will unbolt as normal, but to get the box out i suspect I will have to release the motor then remove the box as the cross member will be a structural welded part of the chassis unless I make it a bolt on item, as far as the diff, just drop the control arms and unbolt the diff and let it down, pretty simple operation. Here is how the box will sit in the Zed, I Hijacked this off a build thread on Hybrid where the guy is using an LS1 and T56. Cheers John

Hey Ben You are a champ, but I have to warn you that he needs it for 2 days. Would that be a problem?

UPDATE for those interested My certifying engineer, Paul Bottomley emailed me a short time ago followed by a chat over the phone about some of his remarks and concerns (See notes in main email body) I have the green light to go ahead with the chassis design as I drew it up, so as soon as the motor lands, I will be calling on a few favours from some of the Lads on the forum to come down for a build weekend. As it stands, if or when the Companion Chassis I have come up with is certified, it will be available as a stop gap alternative for those that may be looking at upgrading to some high output power plants and minimising the amount or need for drastic chassis welded reinforcements. I now need a standard more or less car loaned to me so as Paul can do a beam test, this will not cause any structural damage or stress to the car, so if someone can assist please email me, unfortunately my car in bare form cannot be used. Not mentioned here but also relayed in my conversation post the email was that the diff and cradle design I have come up with isn't a problem and he likes the thinking behind disassociating the suspension and diff action from each other as per the original OEM design, I wont have to use the rear diff mount of the diff hat at all to mount it, just the 2 side mounts with bushings, and the diff can be hung from the companion chassis as opposed to being mounted from beneath. I have also decided to tie in the rear inner cabin suspension towers into the build with a removable tower floor brace (see attached) which will bolt through the rear floor to the companion chassis. This is Paul's email response with supplementary comments from our later phone conversation. Hi John, Well done on your work so far, I know what is involved in developing designs. All looks good and do-able in principal. I ref our earlier correspondence re tare mass – you need to be above 1100kg for this to work. (The car comes in over this weight requirement) We still need to show that 260Z was >1100 TARE, RTA NSW may have data on this. Another thing that comes to mind is ADR10 steering column collapse and intrusion into the cabin, altering anything in front of the rack/box is often difficult especially with SRS cars but we are well before that ! (I will still be using the original cross member for the rack albeit less the engine mount points so this wont be a problem) You are stiffening the structure which is probably directionally correct, however we may look at adding some crumple areas to at minimum maintain or improve the OE crash-worthyness, stiffer is not always better. (The companion chassis will need a number or crumple zones built into them, this will mean in a few key areas the rails may need to narrow to a smaller surface area so as they are capable of colasping in on themselves in case of a VERY hard hit) M600 is only appropriate for pre 1976 vehicles unless we do a drive cycle test. (This is emissions related, however as my car is a 05/75 vehicle this wont apply, basically using a latter motor in a retrofit requires the use of the OEM management system for any car post 1976) The first step after the tare issue is to do a torsion and beaming test on an std OE vehicle as a baseline, then a follow up using your companion arrangement. We need to show that we have not introduced stress raisers or areas of great change in stiffness, I believe you have that covered well, fairly uniform structure and extending beyond the wheelbase. Any questions please ask, if you gather questions from other members interested in doing the same I would be pleased to respond next week or I could come along to a meeting at a later date if that would be helpful and appropriate. Paul Bottomley Director Automotive Performance Solutions Factory 1, 29 Hanrahan St, Thomastown 3074 Victoria, Australia. Ph : (61 3) 9466 4222 Fax : (61 3) 9466 4822

Sam did it all work?

I used to use a desert spoon of yogurt, close each eye and just scoop it on, but you need the firm type like "Jalna" that way its not runny

Well put Alan Sam, off to bed with you, get those Vas gloves on and dont rub your eyes. Night sam

Sam You may have had fibres there which would have scratched the lenses, same thing happens with steel shards, even after they are gone there is pain due to these abbrasions, but you dont know what pain is till you have MIG flash burns and your eyes feel and ache like someone chucked buckets of sand in your eyes. Its like sunburn and the pain and grit feeling is the eyes actually losing a layer of membrane as a result.

Seriously Sam The Vas does work, Spamaster (Bruce) used to make fibreglass Spa baths, even he will tell you it does. The vas will soften the pours in your hands and allow the fibres to work themselves out while you sleep. Isnt that right Bruce?

Think Bro Flexzed has first dibs he offered $200 a few weeks ago.

Sam Old panel beaters trick for you. Get some latex gloves and fill them with Vaseline, then tonight put them on when you go to bed and tape the tops around your wrists. By the morning it should have released any fibreglass resin and material off. Cheers John

Lurch is right, ask Maygrz about his before it was blasted, didn't look that bad, if someone else has had a crack at it with multiple tins of Bog you are better off stripping it totally back first before committing to discovering hidden rust and repair spots as you go along, its like death by a 1000 cuts. And as everyone will say, doubt you will find anyone quicker and more precise than Lurch for this kind of work outside of an actual body shop who specialise in these cars.

OOOOOOOOOOOUCH !

Nice work Buddy Any word on how it drives or did refrain attempting to due to the pulley ?

Damn David, Talk about a Blitz Krieg of effort and updates ! Always a pleasure to see your work, well done !