kolonelklink

common things to check: Establish if its rich or lean by reading plugs. check integrity of temperature sensor (this is separate to the temp meter sensor) check FP is stable. Check pump. check ignition coil. this sounds like an EFI problem... what has happened between the last time the car was running well and now? (what have you worked on?) Cheers, -p

Yeah me too, I've seen this on pyrmont, even stopped to compliment the owner ( i was driving my 260c 2door) Made it onto forums? -pete

honestly i dont know. my suspicion would be yes. just grab your old mc, go down to you local jap wrecker and ask nicely to look through thier "old nissan/datsun" brake bins untill you find something which matches the old mc flange pattern... you'll probably end up with an urvan mc with a remote res. i have now exhausted my knowledge on this topic. -pete

nissan urvan 15/16 m/c will work. go to a scrapyard. remove the remote resovoir and fit the ones from your current m/c. costs <30 bucks. -pete

out of curiousity what pad did you end up using with those calipers? did you have any clearance issues with the insulating spacers (as discussed)? -pete

looks great! i'm glad these calipers worked out for you

NICE. thank you very much for the visuals on our earlier discussions about ex. porting -a true artist doesn't hide his gifts! those look fantastic. -pete

the 23mm disc notch in the 12+8 caliper can be machined out to accept a 25mm rotor... am currently running these calipers with magna slotted rotors.

why do you need new injectors? will second hand ones do? You can get your old injectors serviced for a fraction of that cost + I have a bout a million used standard injectors at home if that might help you out? Also, never return to that mechanic for anything but dodgey pink slips (if they do them). Changing the injectors is a 30 minute job and the labour cost should reflect that. -pete

Pete this thing looks fantastic. big Kudos. -Peter

*sigh*

getting it idling then worry about the finer details... set timing at stock, idle screw conservative 800-1000 rpm You have 2 afm's yes? swap them and look for the same phenomenon... if it doesnt resolve with a different unit my instinct would be to start looking for vacuum leaks (sorry my knowledge on the AFM function is very limited). You might find it runs alot better after you work through undoing alot of the fiddling you've done trying to track down the earlier problem Is the cam stock? A aftermarket cam would make it "lumpy" or is it missing a cylinder? change your spark plugs and photograph them!!!!!! What colour is the smoke, how does it smell, how much is there? (basics basics basics) -pete

nws. If you're not sure about reading plugs swap in some brand new ones, run them for a bit (10 mins+?) and then pull them out and take a photo straight away, also note if they are wet (is it thick grimey wet with oil, liquidy and smells strongly of octane, or watery with a bit of green... dab it on paper if you have to) ... It will really help with troubleshooting if you know exactly what the problem is. Fuel plus spark plus air = bang... one of those is the problem so work out exactly which first then we can work backwards through EFI if nessecary. Although the normal instinct is to change things untill you find the problem it can stuff with you ability to locate problems by adding complexity... think about it like this: 1. If it was working and now isnt, something has changed. 2. It is probable that there is only one point of error 3. The probable source or error is the last thing that changed (what have you changed recently?) If you started fidling with wires and changing things stuff without following a logical process you may be introducing new errors - cables can come loose, short etc. The probability of finding two errors is exponentially greater than finding one because you only have one source of information output (does it work? - yes/no) I cannot recall the number of times i've changed a relay or wire and then had to adjust it afterwards because i'd let somehting sit loose or connected incorrectly. Without knowing is you've made a mistake you could potentially introduce a plethora of new problems Start from basics would be my strongest advice. -pete

No way... you couldn't pay me to take my MS off me. EFI is far superior to carbs in almost every aspect except simplicity for troubleshooting. Carbs are a metered leak, EFI gives superior atomization without the need for comprises in manifold air temperature, flow and port design required to maintain atomization in carburated systems. Don't blame EFI... the zx ecu is 30 years old and not built for user interface. That said, I don't think it sounds likely that the ecu is the source of failure, it would just be nicer if you could plug the laptop in and see the ECU readouts for troubleshooting like in a aftermarket system but that's how it goes. Keep us posted on progress... there are lots of simple tests you can use to track down the problem if you think about it logically. I also have HEAPS of zx efi spares that may help if you need. -Pete

+1 on cold start injector... I hear they a frequently dysfunctional in zx's... Clamp off the fuel if you have to (jammed open?) Test all injectors are firing? place a flathead screwdriver against the body of the injector and hold your ear to it.. listen for the "click click"... Check your plugs (are they black and wet?) Another thought: check your coolant temp sensor. A faulty sensor or bad connection will read VERY cold to the ECU which will rich-out to compensate. Good luck. -pete