Yo-Yo

I took out the booster, "a little bit awkward" is a bit of an understatement lol felt like a contortionist cramming myself into the footwell, naturally of course the most awkward bolt to get to was also rounded by some stroke of luck I was able to loosen it & take it off but not without swearing like a drunken sailor in the process hahaha Should get the new booster in the mail so fingers crossed no issues with that.

cheers mate, thought as much. I might just replace the booster myself for now as it seems pretty straight forward. I won't know for sure until I get the other booster in the mail but from the pics they actually look identical. Will be interesting once it arrives so I can compare..

Hey Andy, good luck with your project mate! I'm in western syd as well so if you ever need a hand with anything let me know Just FYI in future, I emailed the Techno Tuning guys & they said that their full coilover conversion kit will bolt straight up to the factory strut towers no welding required, they do sell a weld on kit for cheaper but I'll be getting the full bolt-on kit once I get my tax return sorted. Looking forward to seeing the progress. I'm in the process of getting my car rego'd too, just need to sort out my booster & the workshop will sign off on my blueslip. With a bit of luck should be done within a week or two (fingers crossed)

thanks mate, good to know. Lots of info out there but not as easy to filter what would be relevent in my situation. Co-incidentally I found out the dodgy booster might also be the reason for my rough idle when applying the brakes so hopefully it fixes two issues at once haha. How hard is it to remove the booster? Do I just undo the bolts on the master cylinder & the bolts on the brake pedal brackets? Any other steps or is there a how to posted online? Thanks again everyone

Hi Liesl, Welcome to the forums! This site is definitely full of knowledgeable and helpful people. I''m a newbie to Early Zeds & this site has helped me out a lot! Looking forward to seeing the pictures & progress

Got the engineer certificate after having the seatbelts changed to ADR complied belts. Took it to the blueslip inspection & had to get new tyres put on. I also need to get the brake booster fixed, but I'm buying a 280zx brake booster & 15/16 master cylinder from a member on here. I've done some googling & apparently it should be a direct fit as long as the booster is mounted upside down but I could only find a few posts, nothing concrete. My car is basically the same as an Aus delivered '76 260z. Can anyone confirm this or provide a link to someone who has had this done? I bought the bigger master cylinder as I am planning on getting 4 piston fronts & convert to rear discs so I may as well replace the current one with that rather than get it fixed I've attached photos of my brake booster Once the booster issue is fixed she'll be all road legal

I'll grab it, U have pm mate

mine idles at around 900-1krpm, drops to around 600 rpm when applying the brakes. I noticed when driving back from the engineer that it would drop to around 500rpm & the engine would shake like it was on the edge of stalling. It's only gotten that like once so far & that was on the road. I've been idling it in the driveway to test it every night after work & it seems fine for now

I'll be looking into an engine conversion later on, I like the look of big calipers & I'm a bit of a lead foot I went from a car with these: to these: The rear disc kits I posted up still use the stock handbrake with no mods which I like but there's about $300 price difference between the kits, anybody know why this would be the case?

Hi guys. I'll be getting my new 16" rims soon & will be looking into brake kits shortly after. I've found these conversion kits from the states & wanting to see your opinions. I've been reading up on hybridz & whatever comes up on google, some conversion kits use maxima calipers which aren't available here? I could still source brake pads easily enough? Front Conversion kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21k/24-5700 Rear disc conversion kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21m/24-5583 OR http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/brake-upgrades/240z-260z-280z-rear-brake-upgrade-disk-conversion-kit I'm open to suggestions. I'll be getting a proper brake workshop to put them in as I'm not confident doing the work myself Thanks everyone

damn I gotta be on here 24/7 hahaha, would've loved to grab the diff Oh well, next time good luck with sale mate

Ever since I replaced the air filter the car has been running smooth as, no misfire or anything. I won't know for sure until I take it out on the open road again when I take it back to the engineer. It only came up driving back from the engineer last weekend, it would misfire at about 2,000-3,000 rpm at accel & decel but it was intermittent. I noticed too my idle revs drop by about 500rpm when I am pressing on the brakes for eg. stopped at a red light, so I might need to check the grounding as I'm losing power when the brake lights are on

Yep pretty much what mike said, NSW no roadworthy cert but we have annual pink slip inspection. It's up to the buyer to make sure the car will pass a new pink slip inspection come rego time ie; condition of the tyres, brakes etc. The only thing I will add about stamp duty is the RMS will check the market value of the car as well, if the agreed purchase price written on the notice of sale is lower than the market price they go by the higher amount, this happened to a mate of mine when he bought an old pulsar as a daily driver & to park at the train station

I had a bit of a play with it but didn't want to go too far as I imagine trying to source a replacement is a pita. I was surprised to see a mitsubishi logo inside too, although I used to own a 2007 V36 skyline & that had airflow meters stamped nissan-Renault hahah. I'll open up the air flow meter next as it might need a clean, going by the air filter that came with the car there might be a bit of crap hiding in there. Speaking of the air filter bought a K&N filter to replace the filthy stock paper filter. It wasn't a direct fit in the airbox, I had to trim one of the rubber edges to get it to fit but it still makes a complete seal inside the airbox. All I can say is wow, what a difference a clean & high flowing filter makes to these old engines, the engine automatically felt stronger & much better throttle response. I put K&N filters in my old cars & it made a little bit of difference to throttle response but this is night & day. Had a closer look at my indicator switch, one of the wires is exposed. I could splice in a replacement wire but I might just get a whole new indicator assembly for better insurance down the track. I still technically have hi-beam functionality via the 'pass' button so hopefully it won't be an issue for my blueslip inspection.

Hi Andy, did you end up getting your headlights sorted? I too will be looking into an engine conversion down the track, I'm fairly set on doing an L28 build but depending on availability of parts & suitable engines for this I might end up going an RB motor just due to the ease of finding parts both factory & aftermarket + I used to own R33's & R34's so I'm much more familiar working on them. If I do go RB It'll be some form of RB26/30 hybrid & keeping it NA we can compare notes in future

Just popped out to the garage to take some pics, I'll have a better look tomorrow during the day when it's not freezing hehe all the leads are fine, nothing fouled or broken at the connection

Bit of an update: Took the car to the engineer today for certification to state that the car meets the ADR's of 1976. As the car is imported from overseas this is required before I can go for a blueslip inspection which will allow me to rego the car in NSW. There are emissions requirement for 1976 period but as my car has factory efi running gear for emissions & basically bone stock the engineer wasn't concerned. If the car was modified then it might have made the inspection more complicated. All the car needs now for certification is ADR compliant seatbelts & a tyre placard in English. Driving it back home the engine was mis-firing periodically in the lower rev range & the idle was a bit rough but it seemed to go away as I got closer to home. I'll double check the gaps on the spark plugs I put in, for a stock L series motor should the gaps be 0.8? I bought NGK BP6ES. I might give the distributor cap a clean up. Anything else I should check? Also the window washer hose was hard as rock & the plastic t-piece was broken so I popped down to bunnings for new 5mm hosing. Had to find a new t-piece at Repco as bunnings didn't have anything suitable. If all goes to plan she should be road registered by next weekend

pretty much going for this look but I'll be getting 16" watanabes in black & no rear spoiler, I prefer the look without them

Cheers guys will do. Might have to dig out my old soldering iron, I know it's somewhere in the mess that is my shed

Thanks for sharing! It's an interesting watch

Guess who's got their headlights back It's the damndest thing... I was sitting in the car scratching my head about what to check next, just out of sheer co-incidence I played around with the indicator stalk. I bumped it backwards & the headlights came back on, when I pull it back towards me the lights cut out so something is still wrong but I'm just glad I have my headlights back! Fingers crossed no issues come up with blueslip but I'm confident it should be ok. Hopefully I will have it rego'd this weekend or next weekend at the latest!

found a much more simple diagram in another part of the fsm. so far I replaced all the fuses with new ones. Still no joy as per my previous post I played around with the fusible links, interchanged the cables to see if it was a dud cable but they all worked when swapping them in, all electrics are fine except the hi & low beams won't come on at all. I'll try cleaning up the spade terminals. My next step is to get myself a multimeter to check if voltage is getting to where it needs to go. Do I test for resistance with the DMM or is there a particular setting I need to have it on? Anything else I should try & troubleshoot before calling in an expert? Cheers for all the feedback & help so far, it's much appreciated!

Andy, sorry to hear you have been having electrical issues, but It gives me consolation I'm not the only one going through it at the moment hehehe I had a bit of a play around with the fusible links after work... took a better visual photo Black cable: okay being black cable I'm assuming it's just the earth/negative? When I pulled out the connector all the electrics turned off. I can still start the car but I'm assuming that's because there is still a bit of juice in the alternator? Brown cable next to the Black cable: If i yank this connector I lose the radio, the antenna no longer goes up or down & I can't crank the engine Brown cable next to the Green cable: I don't seem to lose anything when I pull the connector, could this be the headlights? Green cable: The engine cranks but won't start, the handbrake light goes off I tried swapping the connectors between the links, all the cables are working fine so I don't think it's the cables themselves. I found a pretty detailed wiring diagram in a 260z fsm but it's spread over 6 pages & really difficult to follow. So I'm still stuck at square one I have no idea if it's the fusible links, the switch or the headlight plugs (ruling the last one out as both side hi & low beam don't work). I'll invest in a multimeter next but I might have to get an auto sparky involved as I'm well & truly stumped photo evidence that the headlights were working when I first got the car hahah I was hoping to get this baby rego'd by the weekend but looks like it will need to be delayed a bit, I work monday to friday... really should chuck a sickie from work to get this sorted

I don't have a test light unfortunately. I only checked under the steering column so far. I'll get to the fusible links next. If still giving me grief I'll buy a multimeter for more troubleshooting. just popped out to the garage to take a photo of my fusible links next to the strut tower are these the ones I should be testing?

Thanks guys, Cozza I don't think there is unfortunately, you can get the inspection sheet from the auction house & if you have a good import broker they can get reports on the car & extra photos before making an offer so it's not without risks. As with all things research goes a long way to making an informed decision. I searched the import broker to see their reputation, before I made an offer on the car I got the inspection sheet & a lot of photos inside & under the car, I know photos don't always show everything but it helps. I took a photo, Jiggling about the switch didn't work I think the lights might have come off after I pressed the flash to pass button, both headlights & hi beams do not work. Should I take out the switch altogether? Which wires & connectors should I be checking? Thanks guys!