scrumpy

Okay Paul. If no answer; leave an SMS with your contact no and I'll call you. I might not hear your call over the lawn mower. Z powered of course.

For sale is 1 litre of Datsun/Nissan engine enamel. I bought a brand new Nissan 1974 harmonic balancer from the USA. I had the paint computer colour matched. So if you are restoring or want the right colour; this is it. I cannot post it; but a courier might take it. You organize the pickup. Enough to paint several engines. A lot of mucking around to get this. Bargain $50 I live in Tullamarine/Melbourne. Matt Mobile: 0466 962 986 (SMS if you must)

Good condition. Located in Melbourne. Can post out at buyers cost. Can COD or electronic transfer of money. Don't PM me.

SOLD thanks VicZ again.

No thanks Lgee; for $100 I'd rather scrap 'em. Thanks for your interest. BTW you should convert to gas.

Humph! I thought these would move quickly. I know a lot of local cars are non original bitzas so maybe most want to put in some other motor. I sold my original survivor car to a collector thank god. To my knowledge a good number of the real nice 240/260 2 seaters were spirited away in original trim back to Japan by Lindsay D and another fellow. These motors are not junk. I bought them with a project in mind to preserve the value of my matching numbers car.

IMHO I reckon $50 is a good fair price. Put it this way you've got to make enough to cover wrapping; trip to P.O and retrun. If you don't then it really isn't worth quibling for chump change in a busy world. If I were a 20 something again in a crusty old 1600 I'd quible for 50c; old bones taught me to forgedit. Maybe ebay is a better choice to sell by setting and forgeting for 7 days and accept the outcome.

I have two virgin bore L28 short motors. F54 siamese blocks. 1 engine is flat top piston model and other is a dished piston. 1 engine is bolted into a steel frame with wheels I had made up. Alloy front timing covers are worth more than this. You can take both of them for $200. Buyer to collect. Save 'em from SIMS. Phone Matt on 0403 113 777 or email banana@aanet.com.au

I have various heads laying about. Most in okay nick but require reco. Engines DO NOT have heads on them. Most Datto specialists seem to want a fair bit for heads nowadays. I did have these engines listed for $400 but have reduced the pair to $300 and still no interest. Wished they were GMH red motors or Hemi 6's. Seems there's not much demand for them anymore. cheers.

I have two nice F54 L28 Z engines for sale. One is on a pallet and the other is bolted in a specially fabricated steel engine frame on wheels. One is a flat top piston engine and the other a standard dished piston model. Both on original bores. I recently sold my Z to a collector in Queensland. I bought these engines with the intent of building an all out screamer so I didn't source rubbish. No cylinder head on either engine. Perfect for an L28 build up or spare. As I found these engines are increasingly difficult to find. Most wreckers now realise their value in scrap metal recycling. I live in Melbourne and want to shift them as a pair for $250 the lot. I'd prefer you come and collect them with a trailer. I can assist loading. I nolonger have a Z and don't want them to go to waste. The buyer is responsible for freight.

SOLD for very very near my asking $16500 price. On its way to a collector in Queensland.

Here is a picture of my branched oil breather. I found if you tap it gently side to side with an rubber mallett it slides out. It's press fit. So I can stick a standard single pipe in it or rotate the one I have. Went to Nissan today to see if I could buy a new one. NLA Anyone got a spare standard undamaged single pipe for sale?

Scando. You could try getting a reground cam through WADE CAMS in Melbourne. You could also try CROW CAMS in Campbellfield Victoria. They may still have the last of a batch of blank billetts they got from the USA and grind to suit your specs. The L series 6 cylinder blank billets are done in batches at odd intervals in the USA; so their supply is intermittent. IMHO Crow provide excellent services; but if money is no object and you don't mind a bit of mismatching exchange rate action give MSA (California) a go or the arguabely overpriced KAMEARI stuff.

Yes it is a bit of a worry. I suppose it could be cut off short back about an inch and a half out of the block if really necessary; but I don't want to cut it if possible. Will need to do a test fit of a head and the extractor pipes. To the best of my knowledge you CANNOT block off the sump breather pipe. The sump MUST breath I believe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Most photos of Z L series engines get a K&N breather or similar fitted to the end of the breather or it gets plumbed into the rocker cover breather. Anyone run with a blocked of breather. May well spew oil out of the dipstick hole and upset sump pressure. With the passage of time a lot of these engines have had lots of little changes made as they age and parts wear out. You really should take the head off to be sure; but you may also be able to take a peak through a spark plug hole to see if you can see a dish piston or not.

I was just browsing a thread called "L28et Turbo Distributor" in the Electrical Systems section. It was posted by "zzzzed" On that thread it has a photo of a distributor/oil pump drive shaft with the spider/gear end on it. It comes out of a 280ZX turbo engine or an L28ET engine if you like. They have their own special distributor and are used with 'megasquirt systems" or similar. Here's a photo of the shaft taken from the thread. Looks like I'll be doing a changeover of my distributor drive shaft to match the common L6 distributor. The L28ET distributor is quite rare and difficult to source parts for in Australia anyway. I will play it safe and stick with more common parts. I have sonverted a brand new ex USA 240Z distributor to crane electronic ignition and external multispark control module.

If you are going to buy a second hand distributor make sure the main shaft is not worn with too much free play. Depending on the condition of your points distributor it may be more prudent to fit optical ignition to your existing distributor if it is in good running order. Conversion is less than a couple of hundres dollars and BRAND NEW; not not 25 years old like 280 electronic distributors. I got a Crane ignition fitted to mine at a place called Performance Ignition in Nunawading Victoria. Only costs a phone call to find out how much. Good Luck.

RB30X is that from your own experience or from this thread? What sort of distributor goes on the spider/gear drive type oil pump/distributor drive? There must be a simple explanation for the two different types.

I suppose if I remove the oil pump the distributor drive will slide out. Of interest the "spider drive" shaft came in a late engine 7###### series L28. I have attached another photo of the sump breather tube which has a branch in it. I will be using this block and hope my MSA type ALLZPARTS extractors will clear it. Here's a photo.

Yes. That's why I gave the price and then posted actual photos of the spoilers.

Okay what's the difference in the spade drive and the gear drive? Is the spade the most common that you'd use with a 240Z distributor? Was it for different distributors? Like Patrol 2.8 etc

Hi I'm building an L28 engine. I have a new turbo oil pump to be fitted. Can anyone tell me the difference between the oil pump-distributor drives in the following two photos. Photo is of where distributor bolts on. One has a flat head screwdriver type top and the other has a spline type top. What's the difference? I have a new 240Z type distributor converted to electronic to fit in. Both photos are F54 L28 engines. The splined drive is on a flat top piston engine and the flat head screwdriver drive is on a dished piston engine. Any information appreciated from L engine expert/officionado so I supply the right one to the engine builder.

Alfa fibre glass sells a beautiful replica BRE "spook" front spoiler for $165

I'm hoping TFS176 will screw straight into the thermostat housing. I'm checked out a new 240 thermostat housing and see it only has two plug holes. One appears to be 16mm for the temp guage sensor and the other is only about 10mm - So no hole for the thermo switch. I also have a pollution model 260Z Thermostat housing with an extra hole in it for something. I'll have to dig it out to see the hole/thread size. I will also take a look at my US made triple core radiator to see if there are any plugs it may screw into. Availability is the usual Bursons; Repco; Auto 1 etc. Probably going to be around 60 bucks I would say.

I looked up a local company called TRIDON (as in hose clamps) who make thermo temperature switches for thermo fans. They list a thermo switch ref: TFS176 with an M16x1.5 thread. It has an ON temp 92C and an OFF temp of 82C This switch is listed for L24-26-28 in Z C and K Nissans. Anyone seen or used one for their thermo fans or is there a better switch available. I also have a new triple core radiator for my triple weber L28 + 2 x 10" thermo fans. By using an original type switch I don't have to invest in tacky hose probes or radiator fin probes from aftermarket guys like Davies Craig or Derale Spal etc. Any Advice welcome from someone who has already done it

BRE type small rear hatch spoiler is $144 BRE type front spoiler is $150 Excellent value compared to other local and OS sources.