PeterAllen

I didn't get one with my car and I'm just wondering if anyone has found a simple alternative item and where it is mounted? Thanks

Comprende?

IIRC splines are measured by their number and PCD. You need to use roller needles on opposite splines and measure across the needles and then substract the thickness of one needle. I forget how you calculate what dia needles to use in the first place. As has been suggested you are best to use the mating part as your guide.

Thanks - I'm installing a Vintage Air a/c system as well so I think I can just ignore it.

After inspecting ever square centimetre (I thought) of the shell in all the time I've had it I just discovered this cavity in the scuttle/cowl. Does anyone know it's purpose? I'm trying to work out a new placement of the fuses, relays, etc on the firewall above the passenger's feet.

see PM

Vince - Thanks again for putting me in touch with Stepher Fryer, as you can see I now spend have my time and half my Super there!

Loui - I would like to be there all three official days, plus private practice on Thursday, but domestic duties call so it looks like just Friday and Sunday. Sir Jack - Yes that's me and not a professional male model. Black Jack's book (by Doug Nye) is available on eBay for $15 + $5 postage - you should get a copy and have him sign it. Also, it's a fresh Cosworth in the 49 and it sounds sweeter than ever.

I'll be there all weekend. Just been putting the finishing touched to the Lotus 49 Smithy will be driving - it's the ex Graham Hill car.

Apologies for hijacking the thread. six-shooter - I'll contact you via PM.

We speak and write the Queen's English down here, it's "mould", not some American bastardisation... Ewes Canucks should no that! Thanks - Good fibreglassing information. I'm about to start some serious fibreglassing and I wonder if you could explain if the wax is primarily to smooth off the surface of the 'buck' and a PVA release agent should always be used, or, is it an alternative release agent? Thanks.

Cable - How are the extractors (headers) coming along? (Boy from Oz)

Seat included, if you need it.

Scott - If you are really up the creek (and believe you me, you will be after the wedding - permanently!) I can lend you some but I will need them back. Someone would have to come to Marulan to get them.

Thanks to all for the input, it's look like 100mm is somewhere to start. I spoke with an engineer at the RTA and he said the roads are designed for 100mm (in good condition) and it has an historical basis of being able to clear silent cops (3" one assumes). That's what I wanted to know. The exhaust is costing my wife a small fortune and I didn't want to lose it first time out.

I know this was discussed not so long ago but I can't find the thread - apologies. We are having a fair bit of trouble keeping the primaries and collectors tucked up around the sump and bellhousing on the LS1 install. We still have good ground clearance but it just looks a bit unusual. The NSW regs state you must have 100mm ground clearance and we can achieve that easily. I'm just wondering if this is something I should be aiming for or is it too low for comfortable everyday driving?

My car in a 3/72 build. It came with no motor or gearbox but a few boxes of assorted items. This looks like the gearbox cross-member (Edit: This is the early 240z auto transmission cross member) and I've included a photo of the body mounts before I cut them off.

Thanks chaps but unfortunately the application I have requires the common narrow style. I've noticed Boston, Hoist and Tridon brands and the Blackwoods cattledog has quite a range of tightening designs just to add to the options. i might have a wander around an engineering supply place and see what's there. Thanks.

Is there a recognised leading brand of hose clamps I should be trying to buy?

Gee... an S30/LSx that actually goes... I am envious. I'm curious as to what you are running with that belt and whether it is the original GM belt. With the dollar so good I've bought a 98-02 Firebird/Camaro alternator which is sufficiently different to the Holden one that it should rectify a John's Cars Inc (JCI) engine mount clearance problem. I have also purchased a Sanden 508 a/c compressor and JCI mount for it. The information I have is that replacing the power steering pump with the a/c compressor I should still be able to run the original GM belt. My concern is that the Firebird/Camaro alternator might be closer to the block (but hopefully it's just a casing issue) and I might end up with the Holden belt being a little oversize - just as yours appears to be. The good news is you have given me a quick and ready fix.

I tried to go the r230 route myself but found the same problem and it could never be road registered with that mod - except as an ICV. I ended up fitting a Holden IRS diff which has the added benefit of various ratio options. Keep up the good work.

Peter - Did you have to modify the rear cross-member (the one the moustache bar attaches to) to install the r230?

I'm trying to fit a GM brake booster and I'm at the stage of having to shorten the plunger rod. It doesn't appear to be retained by a circlip (like a master cylinder) but rather a press-fit sleeve. The only Google reference I can find is from a 40 year old car which suggest I have to prise the rod out, forcing the sleeve out at the same time. Does anyone know if this is how it's still done? http://www.corvette-restoration.com/restoration/body_and_interior/070603_power_brake_booster_removal.htm

Don't "mate" me you.... you... you red and white scumbag. How much did your lot pay that referee?

What about this! http://alteredz.com/exhaust.htm Loui - I'm a little depressed, the car left on Friday and my Tigers went down by one point last night. How much can a Koala bear.