marty

In reply to original question and nothing else. Keep the your stick welder, and buy some TIG gear. TIG is the best for body work, it adds the least heat so will not distort the panel, it is also the most forgiving for this kind of stuff, you will still need to rent a bottle, but you will be able to do a quality job. MIG is the easiest to use in general, but its not the best for THIS job. Don't be put off by people saying it is hard to use, it is just like stick but you use two hands so the transition is easy. A shat TIG job will be much better then a shat MIG job for this kind of stuff, likewise for a good job, so you can't lose. I would suggest that you spend a bit more and get a triggered arc though, it will cost a bit more but you will not have to strike it, very handy in tight spots and it means you can start exactly where you want to. Use the TIG you already have it and it is the proper thing, I know I might be upsetting alot of people as everyone seems to be loyal to there MIG, but comeon, it should have been TIG from the start. As far as mild or stainless, try to stick with the parent metal all the time, so mild in your case.

I drove from makey to Wollongong, to get mine back home afterbuying it. Could not wipe the smile off my face the hole way. The only problem I had was when my friend accidently kicked loose some wires for the rely. that was about 1800km drive

Before you get a new alternator check to see if the alternator light has blown, I bought a modified Z thinking they got rid of it (the alternator light) , it took me a week before I relised they just moved it.

Spectrum auto rubber is ok and very fast!! Though I have only ordered stuff for an old hilux from there, not sure if they have z stuff, the z shop isn't to bad either.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-Nissan-260z-260-2-seater_W0QQitemZ180329346487QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item180329346487&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Doesn't look like a two seater to me!

rightyo, i'l give that a try thanks!

I think I need to replce the contacts, it doesnot have enough emff to engauge the starter moter properly, the battery seems to be in good nick and I have tried with a spare just in case, but still no luck, however if jumped from another car it goes just fine.

G'day does anybody know if it is possible to take the selinoid apart, i can't firure it out Cheers

Sorry if i'm asking obious questions, or if askin them in the wrong place but, ok here is my delema, in nsw 1976 260 though have a 74 in the shed so I could say its a 74, its fitted with a rb20 of the 1990's do i need to comply with these ADR or not, including blowoff valves, pod filter and width of tires? or where can i find the rules any help would be GREATLY appretiated

Question for nizm0zed, why can you vent to the attmosphere? Is that a ACT thing or because of the age of the car? Cheers

is there a second fuel filter in the fuel tank? Asking as I have an axillary electric fuel pump that keeps overheating then stops. Hoping that the only problem is a bloked filter. It is a bit hard to test because it takes a while to happen (about 30min of solid driving) and has no rego and neibours have been complaining about the noise. Any guesses as to what the cause is would be welcome. Thanks

Do you cut a hole for the arrial or not?

Hi all. Does anybody have any opions on which car cover I should buy. Car is under a carport so im looking for one that doesn't scratch the paint when the wind blows. Thanks

No, I was talking to the bloke who owned it previously about October 2007 and was thinking of selling it, but I had problems with my own car but didn't so I decided to wait, a mouth turned into 10 and I was just hopping he still had it. At the time he said I cold have it for 14500 without even negotiating!!!!!! REALLY KICKING MYSELF NOW I just do my homework on cars before I do anything else. Cryin Shame Just the set up I wanted too Don't know were it is now. If anybody knows of any 260/240's for sale in good nick at a good price I am interested!

This car got in a crash a while back and the rear was smashed up pretty bad. It is from Gosford I was hoping on buying it before the crash. In answer to what gearbox is behind it 5 speed nissan from 300zx.

That was the plan I had my heart set on the one with the Vg and was going to get it at a really good price, however I had to wait a little longer than I wanted to and got back to the guy after a very long time only to find out that it got in a crash, got sold as a wreak and it is now on that site was on posted on this site. Guess I will think a little harder on the RB since it is more likely to be straight.

I guess even though I hate to admit it a daily driver would be most suitable, but I don't want a car that is easy to drive either I want to be able to feel it twitch. The rb20det apparently has 210kW at the rears and the Vg30det 198kW so would the rb's fuel consumption gone though the roof?

Looking for some advice as to what is better a quad cam VG30 single T3/4 turbo or a RB20DET with a Garrett GT3076 Turbo. 5 speed nissan from 300zx or a VL Turbo Gearbox R200 LSD diff 3.9 or a 300ZX Differential Opinions bast on performance AND reliability would be appreciated. thanks

What are the detail's on the weather kit? Thanks

Does anybody know how hard it is to get club rego or vintage rego (I think the RTA says the car ONLY has to br 30 years or older) in NSW? Does it cost more? Thanks

A friend of mine is thinking about selling his 260z and was wondering what the LOWEST price he should give it up for. It has: VG30 DET with rebuilt T3/4 turbo EMS computer 5 speed nissan from 300zx (jap) R200 LSD diff 3.9 1/2 cage 3 inch exhaust lge aluminium radiator(4 row 600*400) and intercooler(600*350*85mm) This was all completed in 5/2001 and travelled 16000km since Has 300zx TT front rotors with landcruiser 4 spot calipers front and skyline rear discs and calipers i PS this is all fully engineered Suspension tokino adjustable shocks Whiteline heavy duty adjustable sway bars Simmons 16 inch by 7 in rims The interior needs replacing, including the dash. It needs a new exhaust starting from the manifold to the end of the car. Paint work needs sum attention Minor rust Needs a new alternator/generator or whateva it has. Just wondering what you guys think it is worth. Thanks Martin

I would like to spend about $8k on the engine, box and diff. Mainly for track use but able to get rego. I don't care if its straight or a V, which ever would give me the best power to weight ratio, reliable easy to maintain and price. If all was equal i would go straight 6. What kind of power does the average rb20det put out? Also if its not to hard a question how hard it it to stiffen the chassis? Thanks Martin

I would be using it for track. I would consider any engine that will improve performance, but have seen a quad cam VG30 single T3/4 turbo and a gearbox from a 300zx and would consider it as a starting point. Thanks Martin

How much would it cost to change the engine, gearbox and LSD in a 260z and what engine, gearbox and LSD would be best to use? Also if anyone knows of any 240z or 260z for sale could they let me Know. Thanks Martin