Kirby

Hey Guys, When Otomoto were selling RB-R's I grabbed a set of two to test fit, when I had finished testing with the new brakes, otomoto were no longer selling rbrs. I need a set of 2x 16x8 RB-R in the 4mm offset, I'd be willing to buy a set of 4 as well. Please contact me through forum PM if you have a set you'd be interested in moving on. Cheers, Kirby Edit: Can a mod please move this to the correct forum, had to many windows open. Whoops.

Hey Guys, Sorry for the late reply. Dizzy and Engine went to a tarmac car here in Adel. Exhaust, Headers and Gearbox still available. Daedalus: I would have to cut it up if to ship the whole thing to ballarat. Someone I know drives over on a semi-regular basis. I could possibly organise delivery, and i will check this out for you!

Bump. Still all available.

Hi Guys, Time to clear out my shed and drum up some new funds for my project. Everything is located in storage at my farm shed, but I will bring it down to metro Adelaide if you want to inspect/pick up, freight available on *some* things, or negotiable...whatever you want to do. First Up: L28e Long Block and Head SOLD! 280zx Electronic Ignition Distributor SOLD! R30 EFI Setup All there: ECU, Harness, Rail, AFM (with filter, elbow and other bits and pieces), Resistor block and Manifold. I'll need to have a hunt for the injectors as they are in a ziploc somewhere but are included Also included is a VL inline fuel pump and rear bracket (it mounts behind the fuel tank) Was running in the car with no issues on above engine, using stock carby fuel lines, never had any issues with surge (that I can recall) Harness is showing its age around the injector/water temp connectors, but that is the case with all these harnesses, nothing some love, electrical tape or heatshrink wouldn't fix I can include the thermostat housing with the temp sensor and thermotime switch I can also provide you with wiring diagrams and all the information you need you'd require to put this in a carby car (there are 6 wires to connect to your stock harness and 2 relays you will need to install and run it) Make me an offer! 2.5" Exhaust with Perry Headers Came off the car above, sounded awesome Should bolt straight in and clear everything in a 260z/240z 2-Seater The headers were sandblasted after they came off the car and hit with Jet-Hot Paint Rear section has some rust, but looks more like surface rust $250 5-Speed Manual from same as above As far as I can measure by myself ratios are 3.6:1, 2.25:1, 1.5:1, 1:1, 0.9:1, R3.3:1 Passenger Filler Plug, Driver side breather and Speedo out, 2 Drivers side switches, one is reverse other is D/C Bearings seem free with no flat spots, throwout is fine too, never had any dramas with the syncros while I was driving the car Might need a top up of fluid as its been leaking a bit out the rear yoke Some ID confirmation would be nice $250 Thats it for now, I have a bunch of other parts to, feel free to enquire about: Halfshafts, Rear Brakes, Front Brakes, Driveshaft, Seats, etc. PM me on here and I'll try to be diligent with my responses. Cheers. EDITED 2/5/11 - UPDATES

I'm in Adelaide. I have a friend down here that gets first dibs if he can give me the right price, however.

Ok, here are some photos. Having a look, the filler is on the drivers side and the drain is on the passenger side. 260z box? Guess I should count 1st to make sure? so $400-$500 you reckon?

Hey Guys, I've been going through my parts shed and located my old 5-speed from my L28e. Someone I know is interested in buying it. My questions are: What are the variants, how do I know? What is the going price for these boxes (good condition, good syncro's etc)? Cheers

check these guys www.gkrtransport.com.au I just got a full half cut shipped from sydney to adelaide for $350. An engine on a pallet should be significantly cheaper.

I'm missing one of mine and 2-seater versions don't come up often enough. Where are you in brissy?

Buckled too early Lurch.. Give it a few weeks next time.

Front Upgrade: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/tokicoupgrade/tokicoinstallfront.htm Rear Upgrade: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html For one set I was looking at $900 or so all up. I need to research some more into what would yield the best deal.

(Spoke to Gav about this: at this point it the forum doesn't have a problem with it) Hi Guys, I'm gauging interest in a possible Tokico Illumina group buy from the US: The parts are: 240Z Tokico part# BZ3015 2 Fronts - BZ3016 2 Rears 260Z Tokico part# BZ3012 2 Fronts - BZ3013 2 Rears I would be looking at getting a large batch in to combine shipping. Post in this thread to indicate interest. Thanks.

They aren't HID's, they are standard halogen H4's. Not to mention they are 5 3/4" which means they won't fit. You want 7" Round.

Is it possible to get 16x8 +4 on the front with 225 50, if you are running 2.5" Springs? Or would the recommendation be for 16x7 with 205 55?

Do you have the 16x8's? I just want one to take to my workshop and try on.

Some new 4-pots and a 300x25mm rotor. Just want to make sure they clear the new caliper.

Hey Guys! Does anyone in SA have a set of these in 16x8? I need to see if they will clear my new brakes. Beer for anyone that would let me borrow one for a few hours.

Anyone tried this crew? http://www.ausclassics.com.au/carpets.html

Can someone please get a photo of the tyre placard from the glovebox? I'm pretty sure its a little silver sticker.

QUT or UQ?

:'( I know. All my money is in Canadian Dollars at the moment. I was about to buy all my US stuff when it was around 1:1. Then i had to change jobs, so I delayed and the dollar went to the crapper (Canadian is almost as bad as AUD). I figure I'll leave a few grand in my Canadian bank account. When the bottom finally falls out of the barrel that is the US economy. I will strike while the iron is hot.

Studying my Bachelor of Mechanical Engineering. Currently on a work term as a research associate at an university doing Mech. Design, CAD, Drafting and Machining. Thats kinda what I thought. I don't think I'd ever take them to a track tho :-\! on the topic of control arms. I do like MM's RCA's http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=68. Mainly because they use bushings the same size as your stock RCA's. I still can't figure out if the adjustability makes them illegal. Any thoughts? I think I could make them for under $600USD however.

Scott, Good Luck! I'd be interested to see what they say. Are those AZC camber plates on your car? If not they are very similar. Have you spoken to your engineer about them? This is the one thing I have yet to find out about my planned setup. When it doubt, swap it out! I actually have a question RE: AZC rear control arms. With the "mounting shaft" seen here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/q4531b.jpg (the gold coloured part). What is to stop it rotating around its axis. If you understand what I am saying...

Hey Woza, You seem fairly proficient at cad, have you considered doing a quick and dirty FEA (COSMOS or ANSYS) to determine if the bracket will hold up to a static load. (e.g. car parked on a steep hill). I'd be happy to do this if you want. I have some spare time at work. Off-topic but important, In your gallery I see you are using the AZC control arms, front and rear, I understood these were VERY illegal in all states of Australia for road use due to the use of rod-ends (often called rose-joints). I thought ADR and vehicle modification rules are very clear that any suspension pivot/joint other than ball joints, must be bushed. Bushings must be non-solid. e.g. non-metal. Have you spoken to a Cert. Engineer about this?

check your charging/voltage regulator, they have varying quality on the windings on the relays inside, if they burn out they can sink to ground and cause strange and unidentifiable electrical gremlins. the ultimate upgrade is to switch to a more modern, internally regulated alternator (solid-state regulation for the win) and shunt out the connector where your old regulator is. Benefits are a newer more powerful alternator, and no more regulation woes. the details of the swap can be seen here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Edit: Hum could be your amperage dropping low enough that the coils in one of the relay (just above the fusebox) rapidly switching on and off. due to an oscillating current. which if the case is sever because that is mA required to drive a relay coil, but possible. essentially the coil has enough current to engage, but as it engages there is a sudden increase in current draw (through the relay). there is no longer enough available current to hold the relay engaged, so it disengages, as this happens the current draw drops and it has enough power to engage again. repeat infinitum. sounds strange but it happens, it can sound like a hum when its happening many times a second. suggest you check your current draw through your battery when the car is running.