Zeddophile

Sulio - does a 240 door fit onto a 260 2 seater, do you know? I definitely need a full RH door/skin, so I'm interested. (rust in mine is around mirror bolts, and a very dodgy lower repair (arc welded badly!) renders the rest of the door skin useless....

I thought the same with mine. about the seal on the shock, so I just chucked my Konis in as they were..... Planning to upgrade to yellow konis now anyway, with strut mods, so may yet fit boots, but I dunno.

well, if you part it, I'd be interested in the diff and possibly the L28, depending on price - I'd be using the L28 to build an L31, so it wouldn't matter if its a bit buggered..... Get some photos up, I might be able to help you panel beat it out yourself if you want (have a bit of useful gear, and some practice ), depends how bad it is - how'd you crash into your house?

awesome - that'd be really helpful for me to decide on the paint details

$150 sounds pretty damn good.... can't stuff a couple of cranks in your suitcase on the way over, by any chance?

The flares need to be black, and the bumpers not black (silver?) and it would look pretty good..... Can't find me a white zed with a black bonnet can you?

I reckon cable ties are better for those boots than the steel clips anyway..... can get them tighter, with some pliers, and easy to replace

was thinking about doing the same thing on my zed - white base colour, with a black bonnet...... Either that or having it white, but with a big black Z on the bonnet. Bonnet pins are rather pointless I think, since Targa Tasmania regs state that a front hinged bonnet doesn't require bonnet pins to be fitted.

Well, mine runs, and is perfectly driveable (except for no exhaust past extractors), but yeah, no seats, half the panels off - its driving me mad too.... I haven't even gotten to drive it on the road yet!

NR240, are you running carbies or efi? I've put a VL commodore fuel pump in mine, but I'm running an L28E - Cost me $50 for the pump, secondhand, then a couple of bits of hose + clamps..... I ran a power wire from the pump (next to the tank) all the way through the body on the RH side, along the existing loom, using the same retaining clamps as it, then followed the loom across the firewall, behind the dash to the LH side where my ecu is, and my earth wire is bolted to the subframe right next to the pump. But I've got all the trim and carpet out of mine, and my centre console isn't bolted in, so.... If you are running carbies though, you need a lower fuel pressure, so ensure the pump you get runs at carbie pressure.

due to the work in fitting an RB, I'd say they'll make you get an engineers certificate.... As far as the fuel tank goes, its not easy to tell a carby fuel tank from an efi tank in most cars, however if you plan to drive hard an efi tank or custom job would be better, due to the extra baffles. As far as an L26/28 swap, you don't ask, you just rock up with it in. They're unlikely to cause hassles, due to the fact it is the same external dimensions, appearance, and bolts straight in with no modifications.

Found out by accident, trying to check Z-Shop for cars for sale.... http://www.zspares.com/catalog/ Some interesting stuff there, mostly expensive though...

I wasn't very happy with the low king springs i had on the front - looked good, but I only had about 20mm of shock travel...... back to standard, planning to modify the strut tower and run z31 externally adjustable Konis... Anyone want a full set of brand new Koni Reds, unused on the road? Only fitted to my 260, rears will also fit a 240 (fronts have had the cartridge modified)

Get rid of the Holley. They are shocking carbies, pretty much without exception. You can usually get them tuned well within about a 1,000rpm range, anything outside that they'll run like a dog. Good for sitting on top of a boat engine thats running flatout constantly, not much else. At the very least, it sounds like the carb is massively too big for the engine anyways - Notice any streams of black smoke when you give it a boot down the road? Like Gav said, go for an early set of 240 SU carbs if you can get them, else look for a pair (or even 3! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: ) of mikunis/webers. Have a look on www.ozdat.com, there are normally a couple of sets of zed carbies with manifolds at any given time. If you are really desperate, I have a pair of working Hitachi carbs with manifold sitting on the L26 I pulled out of my 260, but they aren't particularly fantastic either.... *QUICK BROWSE OF OZDAT* "260Z manifold with Round top Pre Poll SU-Hitachi Carbs fitted $200, 240Z Carb set up Orig carbs with orig colour Red Air Box $600 bird_davidj@hotmail.com Dave 039802 5806 M 0400 343301 Location: Burwood Vic Vic Contact: Dave Email: bird_davidj@hotmail.com Phone: 039802 5806 " **** There you go - they've been up for a little while, both decent options - obviously the 240Z carbs would be preferable (Not least since they have an airbox which you'll probably need!) But the round SU copies should be fine too, I think - I can maybe supply an airbox for those, if you need it. **** "twin solex mikunis Twin 40mm solex carbs on redline manifold can test on running car $250. Price: from $80 Location: daylesford Vic Contact: lauree Phone: 0408 519746" Manifold is for a 1600, but the carbies should be okay on a stock L26 - my alfa was a 2 litre that run rich on twin 40mm dellortos (stock).

When you say some extractors, which ones in particular? I have 6 into 1 headers into a 2.25 collector, i was told at one stage they are copies of works extractors..... My zed is still a garage queen, so hasn't troubled me yet - although i got it to rev to 7,000 no worries after fitting them - thats on an efi l28 too...

Well, firstly, check the the bleed nipples on all your calipers are at the TOP. If you've had your calipers right off, its possible to swap them from side to side by accident on some cars, which puts the bleed nipples on the bottom, making it impossible to remove all the air. Failing that, try just slightly cracking open a fitting on the master cylinder, pedal down, tighten, pedal up, until flow looks constant, then repeat at the other fitting.... It sounds like not all the air is being bled out, since you say its leak free. If you can't find either a leak or a reason why the air isn't all getting out (Possibly a twisted flexible hose?), then I'd start looking at your master cylinder again.....