Has anyone bought these injectors from eBay?

[steady88]

My injectors in my 79 280zx need replacing after the car has been sitting for 6 years.

 

I'm thinking of buying these from eBay as they seem like pretty good value. Has anyone heard of these or have bought them? I'm not looking for any performance upgrade. I just want to get the car running.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6x-New-STANDARD-USA-HOLDEN-VL-RB30E-NISSAN-280C-280ZX-300ZX-Fuel-Injector-/120845176557?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c22ef0eed&_uhb=1#ht_1946wt_1413

 

Cheers,

 

steady88

[PZG302]

Mate, I've got a set of standard 280 injectors here in brissie off my pld race motor, will need a clean and testing bt for $100 take them away, or add postage and i can send them to you.

[dat2kman]

That ebay price is cheap for brand new ones, but, they are not NipponDenso or Bosch.

No doubt made in PRC. Buyer beware, at least with pzg302's set they are oem factory and there are plenty of mobile van guys around doing cleans and checking for flow rates.

About 188 cc is the max duty flow rate, or as close too.

[steady88]

Mate, I've got a set of standard 280 injectors here in brissie off my pld race motor, will need a clean and testing bt for $100 take them away, or add postage and i can send them to you.

 

Thanks for the offer! I still have the injectors (JECS Brand) from my 280 that I could get cleaned and tested. I guess part of me thinks it's better to replace rather than repair or clean as they appear to be pretty old. I am new to this world and am learning everyday!

[PZG302]

I would clean and test yours first, depending on cost, and if they come up all good then you are giggling.

 

The offer is there and always good to have spares floating around just in case.

[steady88]

I would clean and test yours first, depending on cost, and if they come up all good then you are giggling.

 

The offer is there and always good to have spares floating around just in case.

 

I've been quoted $264 to have them cleaned which is not too far off half the cost of brand new genuine ones.

[PZG302]

I've been quoted $264 to have them cleaned which is not too far off half the cost of brand new genuine ones.

 

And the clened injectors, if serviceable will be as good as new ones with volume, spray and pattern all checked for you so still cheaper than new.

[dat2kman]

264 is a bit steep

Ring around the mobile guys, ask them which garages they are booked into to do other cars, find out times, get there before they do, and be patient.

$80 cashy, for six last time i did this.

 

If they make a special trip to just ypu, you pay for it.

Other option, try under fuel systems in yellow pages, yes, i know a big book full of that funny stuff called paper, in there will be some shops that offer the service.

[steady88]

Well, good news. It definitely was the injectors and the car is now running!

 

My next problem is that it has a rough erratic idle, but revs up okay. Also, it has no power under load and if I was to put it in drive and put my foot to the floor, it will only rev up to about 1500 rpm and move slowly.

 

Also, after revving the motor while stationary, if I take my foot off the accerlator fast, the car will stall. The only way to stop it from stalling is to slowly take my foot off. It tends to idle at about 400 - 600 after giving it a few revs.

 

My research suggests that the air flow meter is not working correctly... It does look like it has been opened and siliconed back together a few times... But could also be a vac leak or one of the many sensors not working....

 

 

 

 

[pauly_adams]

its yout throttle position sensor, get some WD40 and blast it with that on the pins then mop up any excess, it happens to mine every time it gets moisture in it.

[steady88]

its yout throttle position sensor, get some WD40 and blast it with that on the pins then mop up any excess, it happens to mine every time it gets moisture in it.

 

Thanks for the advice! Well, I unplugged the connector and discovered it was pretty corroded. So I cleaned it out with WD40, started the car up and it did appear to idle a lot smoother. But, it still wanted to stall after revving and had no power when accelerating.

 

Also, when idling, the car just stopped, just like turning it off which I thought was a little odd. Might be unrelated..

 

 

 

 

[Agno]

I have had this happen to a couple of my cars. One was fixed after cleaning the throttle body until I could eat off it and the second was fixed by changing the fuel filter and cleaning the filter attached to the fuel pump in the tank. Neither of them were Datsuns admittedly but worth mentioning I guess

[luvemfast]

The only time I had issues with the filter in the pump, was halfway up the straight at Calder Park. When I'd run out of fuel 

It would have to be crazy blocked to stop the car at idle or just with a squirt of the loud pedal.

I'm assuming you've checked all the connectors on the injectors too?

Aldi's were selling ultrasonics for a whil for $30. Get something like that and clean them yourself!

[pauly_adams]

i still think its the TPS how much corrosion is there, i had the same issue and was tearing my hair out for months and it was corrosion on my TPS use some CLR on the plug then clean it with contact cleaner, ben the pins in a little on the plug so they for a bit of a V then plug back in and try it again, if its still playing up riggle it wires a bit.

[steady88]

Yeah, well it made some difference to the idling.

 

Tomorrow I'm going to clean every connector and see how I go.

 

 

[steady88]

Well, after cleaning the TPS, AFM, and the connector going to the distributer and the other going to a valve on top of the throttle. The car seems to be idling just a little bit better.

 

Unplugging the TPS makes no difference to the way the car runs though. Perhaps this in itself indicates a problem?

 

[steady88]

Well, I gave all of the connectors a good clean and still no luck. I have noticed that the car stalls when it warms up and will not start again until it cools down. In fact, if I do manage to keep the car running, it runs really bad once it warms up to operating temperature.

 

[Agno]

I would be checking your crank angle sensor to see if it is faulty

[Zedman240®]

Sounds like an electronic issue.. when it heats up, try getting a rag soaked in cold water, and cool off the ignition module on the side of the distributor (little black box with the two wires) and try starting again when you have cooled it off. Just a thought.

[dat2kman]

You have an issue with the air temp sensor inside the Airflow Meter unit, and the water temp sensor or signal back to ECU.

 

The cold face washer on the ignitor module on side of dizzy can work, to check this, but not relable.

I prize off the plastic covers, and use "freeze spray" in a can.

 

I have fried three ECU's by trying to tell them "false" signals from sensors in order to get the ECU to do what i want it to do.

 

You'll need to get a hold of the section in the manual, and go through each components operation, it is all measurable using multi meter and test lights.

 

PITA but thats 30 plus year old injection for you.