RB 30 installation into a Z

[peter t]

Hi, I am looking at installing a RB30 and wondering if anyone that has done the job, can you give me some tips as to what I am looking at in regards to engineering, mods to mounts etc. Your help will be greatly appreciated . I have seen one installed but did not get the chance to talk to the owner. This was at the RACQ  show in Brissie and would love to hear from the owner of that car to help me with mine.

Cheers.

[Retro Z]

Look in the For sale section. There was someone selling a complete setup only a few days ago.. m sure he could answer most of your questions.

[Wayne G]

Hi Peter.  I have installed the RB25de, which is about 20mm shorted than the rb30e.  Castlemain Rod Shop sell a kit to bolt the engine and transmission in if you don't want to make them like I did, however mounting the engine is the easy part.  The EFI needs someone with a fair amount of wiring experience to integrate the engine management and fuel pump controls to the Z.  A NA motor could easily have a pump installed externally to the tank and then that would leave the exhaust and cooling, oh and drive shaft, speedo and gear stick. 

 

The mod plate is easy if RB30 NA.  Basically if it looks well done the inspector will grant the approval and charge about $150-$250 depending on who you get and if they come to you or not.

 

I guess the real question is, what are you looking to achieve?  You won't get a huge increase in power from RB30e over a solid L28, but may experience an improvement in fuel economy, drive-ability, start-ability both hot and cold and less time spent tuning carbs and setting points and timing.

 

Would installing a factory L28 efi system on your vehicle achieve your desired outcome?

 

 

[d3c0y]

Can't believe you want to rat rod your Z with a taxi motor 

[jamo240]

Hey Peter T...I have just completed an RB25DET installation, and did the packaging on a RB30DET installation before deciding not to do it and stay with the RB25 (it fits better if you are using the standard inlet manifold)...but you could get an RB30 in if that's your hearts desire. I did the wiring too, so let me know what you want help on, or if you're in Melbourne, you can look at mine and see how I did it...probably easier that trying to explain it all.

 

The engine installation is relatively straight forward, but I would advocate doing a custom arrangement for the rear mount (see my build thread for details and pics), as the aftermarket ones don't leave much room for exhaust, which can lead to a low spot right where you don't want it where the exhaust has to come down to go under the cross member mount. If you're smart about it, you can recess that left hand part of the mount up into the tunnel, and leave room for the exhaust to come through with minimal deviation.

 

CHeers

 

Jamo

[Scando]

I'm in the process of doing an RB30 conversion at the moment with an RB26 head.  I agree with Jamo about not using the Castlemaine gearbox mount.  I bought one from them and it needed a LOT of modification to fit.  I think it might be design for a 280Z (only sold in the US).  It doesn't work with the 240Z/260Z floorpan and rails.  I'm not sure about the Castlemaine engine mounts as I had them made to get the engine as low and as far back as I could.

 

Because I'm using the 26 head which has a forward facing plenum I have plenty of bonnet clearance to the cam covers.  If you use the factory RB30 inlet plenum it will be tight for room but you could always use an aftermarket forward facing plenum.

 

If you sit the engine about 30-40mm further forward than I have it, then you can use one section of an R33 skyline tailshaft with one of the flanges changed.  Another member on here has done it.

[jamo240]

Agree with Scando...there are more effective ways to do the rear mount. I set my engine up on standard L series crank centre line and rear face of block, so the RB is in a very similar position to the L series, and it is this location that allows you to use the standard front half of the R33 propeller shaft (Yes Shane, it was me who flagged that!!). Although a 25mm rearward location would be a better location for weight and balance and gearstick location, it would preclude using the standard propeller shaft, and clearances between the gearbox and tunnel would get that little bit tighter than they already are.  As Scando says, you can use the forward facing inlet manifolds, but I was keen to retain the long inlet runners of the standard manifold to achieve better torque.

[Scando]

I set my engine up on standard L series crank centre line and rear face of block, so the RB is in a very similar position to the L series, and it is this location that allows you to use the standard front half of the R33 propeller shaft (Yes Shane, it was me who flagged that!!)

 

Ahh, thought it was you but I wasn't sure.

 

You're right that it would be a nicer setup on a road car to retain the factory inlet plenum if it fits.

[FLEXZED]

Look in the For sale section. There was someone selling a complete setup only a few days ago.. m sure he could answer most of your questions.

 

That is me call me if you need any info

 

Loui 

[peter t]

Thanks for the replies to my query. This is something I may do in the future and as all Z owners would know  there is always something to do. :)

[Nobody]

Which sump works for this installation? There are 3 obvious choices - R31, Patrol and Commodore (if that one is different).

[jamo240]

Hey dj...R31 and Commodore won't fit (front bowl). Patrol and ZR200 are the only ones that fit.

 

Jamo

[Nobody]

Sweet action.