relocating battery

[luvemfast]

I've worked out my charging issue. Its actually due to using dud batteries. So I'm in the market for a new battery, smaller & lighter of course. And I got thinking that if I'm doing it, may as well do it right!

I'd like to put a smaller battery in one of the cabin boxes behind the passenger seat. (remember, I've got a 280ZX 2 seater) Thinking that an isolation switch inline within reach of the driver would be a good idea too.

 

So what do I need?

New battery. What type will give me best bang for buck? How many CCA will I need?

0 gauge wire red & black.

Battery cable lugs.

Isolation switch.

 

Do I need to put a battery in a box if its in the cabin? I know it needs to be clamped down. How will this go through scrutineering?

[PZG302]

Simon, personally I would keep the battery in the engine compartment. I did this with my 240 and when I went into the wall at Lakeside was glad i did. I didn't wear any of the battery. I am not a fan of having anything but the bare essentials in the car when on the track, and the new car won't be having an extinguisher fitted with the new cams requirements, plus I will only ever wear a full face helmet for any event where a helmet is required. As a fire marshal at all events from state level to the GP I have seen what happens when things snot you in the face in a car wearing an open face helmet.

 

In a previous car, a Turner Sports 1300, I had a bad crash at Amaroo when the suspension broke and I snotted the wall at a genuine 120mph at the top of Bitupave Hill. The battery was small racing type, but still lead acid, and located in the passenger space bolted to the frame next to the fuel tank, but with an aluminium firewall between to cover and islolate them both. In the aftermath of the crash and looking at the resultant wreck once I was able to move freely, I was shocked to see how close I had come to getting an acid bath. I know the Z is a different type of car, but there is real no benefit in moving the weight, a Z is not a small sports car where 5kg moved from the engine bay to the cabin will make that much difference, where there is an increased risk of injury, no matter how small.

[neRok]

Take a look at one of these batteries. Nice and safe in the cabin.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9908.0.html

I got one months ago, even though I was a little skeptical of its starting ability due to size. Used the battery for the first time on the weekend. Hooked it up to 350 chev and had to crank it over for a good while to get fuel to it, battery coped awesome! Didnt even slow down, just kept cranking. I am a fan!

[luvemfast]

That's actually the set-up I was considering. But was not convinced 230CCA would be enough.

Thanks for the info.

It will also fit nicely inside the box and would actually be in a sealed off, seperate area.

That way its safe to have in the cabin 

 

[Scando]

Yes, the battery has to be in a sealed compartment if it's in the cabin.  Mine is in a custom made aluminium box with the box bolted to the floor in the rear and battery strapped into the box.  The lid also bolts down with a thin layer of foam to give it a good seal.

 

As PZG302 said, be very carefull what you have in your cabin.  My dad's boss had his fuel lines running through the cabin in his sports sedan.  The tailshaft broke and went through the fuel and brake lines resulting in a cabin full of fuel and a 200km/h fireball that he had to spin into a tyrewall to stop.  He was lucky to make it out alive.

[luvemfast]

Crap, now you're all just scaring me...... might just leave it under the bonnet  :-\

 

Maybe some pics would help, so........

Show us ya box! 

[Zedman240®]

Only the lead/acid types have to be in a box, the gel cell type like what Ash is selling don't have to be as the electrolyte is a gel rather than a liquid. I'm using a small type like that and it's only around the 200ish CCA rating and it starts my 240 no problems. Its mounted behind the passenger seat and braced to the body in all planes and its not under the bonnet as heat kills everything electrical/electronic quickly. Install an isolation switch as it's handy as a theft deterrent and if you need to do any electrical work, just switch it off! I recommend the isolation switches with the extra switch that's mounted on the back to kill the alternator as well as disconnecting the main positive. If you just isolate the main +, the engine will keep running while the ignition is off.

[PZG302]

To be CAMS complient the switches have to stop the motor within 8 revolutions and must isolate ALL circuits from the battery. So spend the few extra dollars to get the good ones.

 

I saw plenty of Group A and V8 cars at Bathurst where when we pulled the switch, the cameras would still keep on working.

[Scando]

Maybe some pics would help, so........

Show us ya box! 

 

You're so forward.  I don't normally send people photos like this but......I guess as long as you promise not to show them to anyone else 

 

One shows inside the box and the other shows the underside of the lid so you can see how it seals.

[handsandwhich]

Hey that looks very similar to my box.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Scando]

Hey that looks very similar to my box.

 

Reminds me of the scene out of knocked up where the obstetrician says "you do look like your sister"

[Scando]

Did you get this sorted?  I found this while I was doing a big cleanout yesterday.  I use a full size battery and it was 30mm to short but it would be fine for a smaller race type battery.  It would need a lid made up.  Let me know if you're interested.