dalee Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 tacho has been fine up until i did the GOR run. Only happens at 5,000 rpm, the needle just goes spastic and bounces from 0 to 8k. Everything below that it all works fine, Pulling the heater core out this weekend and will probably pull the whole dash, get it plastic welded up and tidy up all those wires, so will have more of a look then but I have no idea when it comes to elec stuff. Any ideas! Quote
zedrally Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 Might be your ballast resisitor going open circuit. Not costly to replace, it will either fix it or you're going to be looking for a new tacho. Good luck and let us know the outcome. (FWIW, my tacho was intermitant like this and I blamed a solder joint inside the tach. The problem was a *********ed resistor!) Quote
nat0_240_chevZ Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 Had a similar prob in the ms' gemmy. replaced the dizzy, problem gone!! think it was either the points arcing out or the capacitor/condensor going nuts. FWIW nato Quote
dalee Posted May 30, 2007 Author Posted May 30, 2007 Thanks guys, looks like the parts car will lose a resistor That tacho worked fine all the to 7,000 Quote
dalee Posted July 17, 2007 Author Posted July 17, 2007 Dash back in and the tacho worked, took it out, put it back and spent the next 2 1/2 hrs trying to work out why it will not go. Its not the tacho its self, i resorted to pulling the one out of a z that works, plugged it in and nothing! All up i have tried 3 seperate tachos, 2 are perfect and one plays up above 5000rpm I have tried to find the resistor zedrally mentioned but i am not really clued up when it comes to elecs, and don't have any idea what I am looking for. Could you guys tell me where to look (more sprecific the better), and what to look for! So I can at least rule the resistor out. Cheers from the snow fields in Ballarat Quote
Rod F Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 They're usually white and made from ceramic material, rectangular in shape about as long as your finger. Disconnect it and check for continuity, or unscrew it and look underneath for the resistance coil inside to see if it's broken. Quote
mayhem Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 it wont seem to have a fault with it ... if it the spring looking thing in the ceramic block is not broken it probably wouldn't run it converts 13-14 volt down to around 7-8 volts for your coil at idle ... have you noticed a change in performance? does it have points in the dizzy of those things?? ive got a rb so im a bit blarzey with them ..your local auto elec should be able to sort it out for a reasonable price just don't go hooking wires up ass about and stuff had a bloke with a 4x4 who did that was cheaper to by a another car ive been an auto elec for 8 years and hating every day of it ha ha ha got family in ballafat go down a lot .. it will cost ya a couple of coldies if i looked at it ... let us know Quote
tattoo_ink Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 now thats the kinda hourly rate you like to hear about ! Quote
mayhem Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 God reading that i did have to many coldies i had a thought on it ... it more than likely is your point gap it sounds like its time for new ones $5 at the most from some where like repco.. when it gets to a certain rev the points don't colaps the coil for long enough.... thats why your tacho cant read whats going on but thats just a guess ive seen a few reasons why it wouldnt work ...any way a couple of bucks for new points is a good investment will run better regardless Quote
dalee Posted July 19, 2007 Author Posted July 19, 2007 Thanks Guys Checked the resistor and its alright, the car has electronic ignition (learnt something last night) so it can't be the points. So back to square one with no tacho. Does anyone know what the purpose of the small bridging clip is on the back of the tacho? All mine have a white wire that just does a loop back to the connector, and a small plastic spacer under the bridging clip which the white wire runs through. White does not connect to bridging clip it just appears to be some sorta retainer the keep the wire neat. Any other ideas would be much appreciated, Taking the car down to Flemington for a show-n-shine on Sunday so if anyone else is coming down look out for the red zed and say g'day, most probably I will be parked next to my mates red R31 GST2. Its $12 entry and $12 entry for spectators so if you are looking for something to do let me know. Dale Quote
zedrally Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Now you tell us you've got electronic ignition, bugger me why didn't you mention it in the first place. Zed tacho's don't like electronic ignition, you'll need to build or buy some type of converter to make it work....or go back to points. Quote
sexual_sushi Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Now you tell us you've got electronic ignition, bugger me why didn't you mention it in the first place. Zed tacho's don't like electronic ignition, you'll need to build or buy some type of converter to make it work....or go back to points. i'm guessing he didn't mention it because he said he only learnt that it had electronic ignition last night? my car has electronic ignition and the tach works fine (but i bought it this way so im not sure what nigel has done to make it work ) i remember seeing instructions on www.zcar.com on how to wire up the tach with early z cars and electronic ignition. i have the link saved somewhere at home but it could take a while to find. also there is alot of info in the zcar.com forums about tachs so it might be a lil hard to find but make sure you search first cause they hate it when they get the same q's asked over there!! Quote
mayhem Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 an electronic dizzy shouldn't have a resistor in place at all for a start Quote
PZG302 Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Electronic Dizzys and original are no problems if you follow the many diagrams available from most Z sites, as mentioned earlier. My race car runs electronic dizzy with no problems other than the poor accuracy up top, shows about 6800 whan actually doing around 7100, but no dramas as I drive by the note anyway. An L series motor will tell you when it's time to change up a gear Quote
George Posted July 20, 2007 Posted July 20, 2007 Thanks guys, looks like the parts car will lose a resistor *sniff* that parts car wouldn't happen to be my old car would it? say it aint so. say she's gone to z heaven and not reduced to a parts whore...? Quote
dalee Posted July 20, 2007 Author Posted July 20, 2007 Sorry George At the moment, um er, yes. :-[its a bit of a mess, havt taken to much so its still complete, only missing - dash is out cause i wanted the heater core - brakes - front & rear struts - fuel tank - all interior - centre console & radio - coil, hoses, wheels, rubbers, b/bars, tail light surround.......... GOOD news is engine & transmission are good (mind you I can't start it) and its being kept in a dry garage. Quote
George Posted July 20, 2007 Posted July 20, 2007 so it's a shell with engine and tranny. how bad is the body? i mean, is there no way to repair it? Quote
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