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Posted

So I'm looking at doing a full rebuild on a L28.

Is going the stroker route that much more expensive?

I have an l24 with an E88 head in pieces and will be getting

a L28 F54/N42 combo from a member on here.

If I can get an LD28 crank and KA24 pistons should I just

go for the stroked option machine costs would be relativly the

same would they not? maybe extra cost in machine work off

the pistons to get the deck hight.

would like to get 200hp or more at the wheels. I see some of the

yanks get this with there L28's but I also think they are a bit optimistic

with there dyno's.

I need to rebuild an engine either way so what are people's thoughts

 

Luke

 

 

Posted

there is not a lot in it price wise , the crank will cost a bit more 600 or so + to get it ready for the job it will need a bit of work , close to 800 to make it ready

rods 133mm type are easy to get

pistons from MD spears in melb and your there  .

its not hard to get 200hp atw from L28  a good head and carbs with a cam like 74 76 ,,, you have to work hard to get to 250hpatw  ;; the stroker is great to drive lots of torque done low , but if you wont it to work you need air flow and port volume, bigger engine bigger port  this is why lots of stroker engines don't work, people don't work the head over proply

 

pss if you wont a real stroker i sell them, heheh if 3L is good 3.35 is better

Posted

So I can still get you to do the machine work and balancing

and things that I can't do?

Any idea how much it would cost to do the machine work and get the

rotating asembley balanced plus bore and hone and anything else?

I know it's a bad question as you can just keep spending, just trying

to gauge the cost. I'd like to do asembley my self not just to keep costs

down but for the fun

Posted

Set yourself a budget, then double that!

 

Easier to stick with L28 crank, clean it up, balance it, spend $ on longer rods short pin height decent pistons.

Biggest gains will come from head porting and cam selection. Big dollar cost will be induction.

 

Just remember, you cant take your money with you when you kark it, so, just spend your kids inheritance, they wont know!

Posted

Best to send Peter a PM or call him.

 

yeah hit post before I thought that

 

Set yourself a budget, then double that!

 

Easier to stick with L28 crank, clean it up, balance it, spend $ on longer rods short pin height decent pistons.

Biggest gains will come from head porting and cam selection. Big dollar cost will be induction.

 

Just remember, you cant take your money with you when you kark it, so, just spend your kids inheritance, they wont know!

 

I have thought about this too, but figured I could do the bottom

end now and build a good top end latter.

Posted

dat2kman is right  the best bang for buck is a good crank L28 with some 140mm rods some short comp height light pistons

and spend some time on a good head with some triples  and a good exhaust

Posted

I've got a head for sale that will get you to 280hp with the supporting components. I also have a set of 44 mikunis that will be set up for it full rebuilt too. Let me know if you are interested - all the power in an L is in the head as stated above. If you have a limited budget a good head and triples with a decent cam is the way to go 70% of the result with 30% of the cost.

Posted

Set yourself a budget, then double that!

 

Easier to stick with L28 crank, clean it up, balance it, spend $ on longer rods short pin height decent pistons.

Biggest gains will come from head porting and cam selection. Big dollar cost will be induction.

 

Just remember, you cant take your money with you when you kark it, so, just spend your kids inheritance, they wont know!

dat2kman is right  the best bang for buck is a good crank L28 with some 140mm rods some short comp height light pistons

and spend some time on a good head with some triples  and a good exhaust

 

So are the 140mm rods to get a better ratio or higher compression or both, and the pistons for lighter weight and oversize bore?

Would this be closer to a 3ltr with say an 89mm bore?

 

Sorry for the questions but Ive been reading heaps of info on all the usual sites on strokers and worked L28's

and now I have information overload. So many different ways to go, all with similar specs.

Posted

Rod centre to centre length to stroke ratio determines potential peak rpm, not necarsarily where peak hp is made, but close.

A stroker will pull that rpm figure back, as the rod lenght may be shorter.

Running short skirt low pin hieght pistons is always a compromise, ie it wont be a 100,000 km engine!

 

It all comes down to what various combinations of what items, the cost of, the availabilty of, the degree of difficulty of assembly and costs/time.

Better to buy something already worked on, ie decoy's head and carbs, you will get a better deal buying someone elses cast offs, than going fresh, but be prepared to compromise on the package.

 

I come at this on basis of i must use a control engine in a control car that has to comply with specifications ( CAMS Historic Production Sports Cars - Group S) and my engine is about as far as i can get it, i could spend say 3 to 5 k and chase a little more top end, smooth out my midrange stumble, but i drive it accordingly, i also have to run skinny stock rims, original brakes, and a control tyre..

Its a L28E with all factory spec items fitted, stroke is as produced, bore is extra 1.5 mm, allowed, rest of engine and gearbox INTERNALS are free, thats the bit i like.

 

1.54 lap times at Phillip Island, for what it is, bang for buck spent, compared to the Euro trash i run against, is quite satisfying!

 

My advice, just do it, you will learn plenty, make a few mistakes, but at end of day, you'll have a lot of fun!

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