luvemfast Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 After my trip to Winton over the weekend, I have decided that I need neg camber on the front of my car. So does anyone have some lower control arms that the are willing to part with from a 280ZX? I'm thinking of either modding them or making some billet 6061 alum units :-\ Quote
dat2kman Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 Hhhmmm, the old two pair into one pair trick,,,hey!! Got a set here in Brissy, if you cant get onto something local! Couple ways to go, the non Vicroads happy method was to cut off inner end and weld in with a solid block of pre drilled and tapped steel block, that would take a Heim /Rose joint end, that can screw in and out, will need couple of spacets on either side of it when it goes onto the bolt in cross member. Other way, work out how much longer they need to be, ie; say ?? 25 mm??, cut and shut the two pairs and reweld, usind some bits of 60 or 70 mm long solid up into the U for strength, with good welding, this method not so obvious, and the inspectors generally wont pick the mod, compared to adjustable Heim joints. Third way, will need bit of strength plating is to use a slip in/out method, ie overlay the U section, and have at least four nuts/bolts on slots so one can slide in other, not recommended or approved, as a hit on a gutter, or a kerb on a track can push them inwards thus stuffing up camber and toe instantly, not good! The modern R skylines use this method, but only on their upper camber arm, not that critical, as a hit on the rim wont " push"the slots in Quote
luvemfast Posted January 30, 2012 Author Posted January 30, 2012 Ideally, I'd just be using them for dimensional analysis to make Billet prototypes. But may cut and weld as you said, but would like them to be adjustable. Quote
Wayne G Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 I too have a set, but in Brisbane. Happy to post! PS. it is a PAS box system, not a rack! Quote
1600dave Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 For a rack & pinion steering model, or a steering box / draglink equipped one ? Not sure if the LCA's are the same between the two ? The steering box version uses identical LCA's to a 200B. Quote
luvemfast Posted January 31, 2012 Author Posted January 31, 2012 For a rack & pinion steering model, or a steering box / draglink equipped one ? Not sure if the LCA's are the same between the two ? The steering box version uses identical LCA's to a 200B. Wouldn't have even though about that one For the series 1, draglink version How much are you boys after? posted to 3138? thanks, Simon Quote
1600dave Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 I just cut and welded mine, then added a plate on the bottom and plug-welded a small section of square tube inside the "U" (which you can just see on the inner end in the pic below) for a bit of re-inforcement. I also went withJason's idea of making it "not so obvious" - all painted up and with the welds smoothed off, you can't really tell that they've been modified. Another thing to consider (depending how much you lengthen them by) is that you may run out of adjustment on the tie-rods. If you get stuck, I have a lathe and the correct left hand threaded tap (cost me a small fortune even at mate's rates) to make longer ones. I could knock up a pair for you if you want. Ignore the bit about 20mm in the pic below, that's just how much longer I needed when I put 30mm into the LCA's. Also ignore that they don't look quite like 280ZX ones - I have cut off uneccessary brackets (eg swaybar mount) and removed a little of the LCA sheetmetal as I'll be running a custom adjustable sway bar. Quote
dat2kman Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 Oooh yes! The set i have here are the rack and pinipn ones, i'll do a measure up and post to see if any differencesto the steer box/draglink ones! Simon, other thing to consider is re drilling the inner lca pivot bolt, holes, further outwards, and upwards, the guys with Dato 1600's would go out 15 mm and up 15 mm and weld on a large flat washer for extra strength to stop hole ripping out. This also helps bump steer, and keeps the outboard ends of the lca's angled downwards, on a lowered setup Quote
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