No spark at points - relays or kill switch?

[Zedsded]

So I have begun the cleanup of my newly acquired 260z 2+2, which is in much better nick than expected.  My wiring still seems pretty good and electricals appear to work fro most things.  Car is turning over nicely, but there is no spark to the points and I am trying to work out if it is a relay that I am not aware of.  I have replaced all of the fuses in the fuse panel as they had been in water.  I can hear click, like a relay under the cowl panel where the wiper motor is, behind the firweall when I turn the key to on. I don't seem to have any fuel pump or spark.  Does this sound like a hidden kill switch? or is there a relay or other fuse I should know about?

 

 

Thanks

 

Will post pics soon!

[benny]

hey mate,

 

where abouts in melbourne are you located??

 

Ben

[Gyra]

Hey mate, before you go looking for kill switches check if you're getting 12V at the coil when the ignition is turned on.

Is it a points or electronic distributor?

 

G

[Scoota G]

This sounds like the ebay one that was submerged? Am i correct?

 

There's a wealth of info here but a utube video could speak volumes!

 

Welcome anyways!!!

[benny]

depending on where you are in melb i could come give you a hand to sought it out!!

[Wayne G]

Ring the previous owner and ask about a kill switch, don't just assume that there is one.

[Zedsded]

Thanks for the replies.  I rang the previous owner, no kill switch.  I am intermittently getting 12v at the coil, but not constantly..I have a test light hooked up.

 

It is the same z from ebay that was submerged during the Qld floods.  I am in West Brunswick.

[zeds4ever]

  Sounds like your Ignition switch to me, could be faulty. Had a similar situation myself & found problem to be it. Also suggest you check out Ballast

        unit situated below coil sometimes these can collapse.

 

                                                          Regards: Alan. 

[Zedsded]

Thanks Alan, I think you may be right.  I just re-checked using the test light according to Dimitri's instruction under an old "no spark" post.  I have full light when I switched to ignition on position with + connected to + on coil and - connected to - at battery.  However, when I connect both light terminals to + and - on the coil and crank, the light only comes on occasionally not repeatedly.  I also noticed that by toggling the key in the ignition in the on position, sometimes the fuel pump stops and the guages don't register...so I thin there is an internal problem in the ignition barrell. 

 

I will try it again with a new ignition barrel...or I might rig a switch first before I buy a new barrell. Does anyone know what wires are what from the coloured wires on the plug at the rear of the switch?  ie acc, on, starter etc?

[zeds4ever]

If you remove the plastic shroud covering your Igntn switch etc, you can reach behind the igntn barrel & gently prise the connector case from the switch unit, should slide off without much trouble. This will enable you to do the following.The white /red wire is the active supply wire,from this wire run a temporary supply/loop wire to the blue/red - green/white-black/white wires this will give supply to car normally provided by Igntn switch when turned on. If you wish you can start car by using another temp wire from red/white main to black/yellow which activates starter motor, but I chose not to start mine by the latter method instead opting to use a small screw driver across main battery terminal cnctn at starter motor to black/yellow cnctn on throw out unit but be quick to move screw driver clear once car kicks over. Hope this works ok for you it did for me. By the way this is how a lot of Zeds are stolen that is why it is wise to have a kill switch or even better, a good "IMMOBILIZER" fitted.

 

                                                                  Regards: Alan. 

 

                                                           

[benny]

hey alan... hes got power at the ignition as his starter is working just the coil isn't.

[Ben]

Alan's right - bypass the ignition barrel and hard-wire it while testing (but make sure you only short the solenoid to the battery lug, not the block!.

You could also try some water dispersant in the plug, but the contact assembly is attached from the rear and not exposed to the key slot.

If the barrel is shot, then you can always use a couple of switches for ign and acc, while using the key for cranking.

[zeds4ever]

Yer darn tootin! i'm right . Been there & done it. LOL. No disrespect intended Ben & Benny.

 

                                            Regards :Alan. 

[Zedsded]

New coil and cleaned up ignition barrel did the trick!

 

I also put a set of round top (240z) carbies on and cleaned the engine up.  She fired up and runs nicely when I feed in fuel direct to the carbs.  Currently having trouble with the fuel tank and I think it is blocked.  I will post under th fuel heading about this.

 

Thanks for the help!