Engine fan replacement?.

[zeds4ever]

Going to replace engine fan with 16" Thermal fan from a Nissan patrol, by cutting the shroud from around the Patrol unit I can fit it over the existing 260 shroud neatly. Intending to install control unit that I can regulate to suitable temp.

Can anyone please advise most suitable Temp setting that will suit 280z motor +60 Thou o/s. (Radiator is from a 280z.)

 

Also have a auto trnsmsn fld oil cooler from same Patrol which I intend to fit in front of car under existing cooler unit for A/C.

Should I fit another thermal fan in front of these or will the rear unit suffice. If one is required what setting should this be at.

Was thinking that if I alternated them so they both don't run at same time wont be a huge Amp drain.

                                              Thoughts please fella's.

                                                                                        Regards: Alan.  :-\

 

 

 

[ozconnection]

Alan, I have also installed a 16 inch thermo fan on my car.

 

The fan is switched on via a Jaycar electronics computer temperature switch which is normally open (NO) and has a temperature setting of 70 degrees celcius. It has a hysteresis of about 2 degrees either side. The temp switch is setup high on the radiator, away from the top hose and outside the shroud. I have used a laser temperature gun for locating the best spot on the radiator for the switch placement.

 

I have found this setup to be fantastic. As soon as the dump of hot water from the opened thermostat hits the temp sensor location, it turns the fan on. As the fan works to cool the water down, the switch turns the fan back off. It works just like a factory installed late model car does.

I've watched the temp sensor on my dash very closely since the mod and it never overheats. When I drive, the fan switches off. When I come to a stop, the fan will naturally switch on and cool the engine. Like I said....fantastic.

 

I don't see the need for an adjustable temperature switch....but.....you can add one if you wish. I might add that the temp. switch I use from Jaycar is less than 5 bucks!

 

Good luck. 

 

 

[zeds4ever]

  Many thanks for the sound advice. I'm up in Sydney, where abouts is "Jaycar" so that I can get in touch with them to get sender unit.

 

                        Regards :Alan

[ozconnection]

Alan, I got mine at Blacktown cause thats where I live. Look in the yellow pages or online. Jaycar Electronics.

 

The switch is used to help turn on the computer fans when the CPU gets above a certain temperature and as such is perfect for our application.

 

Look for the NO (normally open) version. Ask the assistant for help. Dont tell them what its really for...it just confuses/complicates things with them.

 

I Know!!

[zrevival]

I'd be interested in seeing a photo of your setup, and also some information about how you wired this to the fan setup.

As a newbie to engine electrics, this would be useful

 

Are you saying you have the switch mounted between the radiator fins as opposed to directly in the radiator itself?

 

 

 

 

 

[D.O.G]

  Many thanks for the sound advice. I'm up in Sydney, where abouts is Jayco so that I can get in touch with them to get sender unit.

 

                        Regards :Alan

Nearest Jaycar to the mountains is in Penrith.

[ozconnection]

I'd be interested in seeing a photo of your setup, and also some information about how you wired this to the fan setup.

As a newbie to engine electrics, this would be useful

 

Are you saying you have the switch mounted between the radiator fins as opposed to directly in the radiator itself?

 

Sure man, I'll need to take some photos and post em here for you.

 

The switch makes physical contact with the fins on the radiator. It has a metal ring on the base of the switch with two holes in it. These holes allow the switch to be mounted via nuts and bolts (or screws, but not in this application) to a "flat" surface, like the face of the radiator. I used two long (60mm) bolts and nylox nuts with flat washers so that the nuts wouldn't just pull through the back of the radiator fins. Very little clamping is required as the switch is very light and the nylox nuts don't come undone easily.

 

As far as the electrics go, I converted my externally regulated alternator to internally regulated. Since the voltage regulator was diconnected from the main wiring harness, I had power, earth, and swiched power points all available for use. I used a standard relay and wired it up with a 15 amp fuser. The most important part is to make sure that the fan earth wire is properly earthed at the point of installation. I thought the fan had died when in fact it was a poor earth that caused a problem early on after the install.

 

My car is not a Zed, but the principles are the same. You could do this without having to have an internally regulated alternator, but it sure does help. My alternator failed and at the time I had no option as to what I needed to get me back on the road, it was the "right" option anyway in retrospect.

 

Let me know if you need a wiring diagram for this, I guess I could write it down and scan it in. Let me know.

 

Cheers 

 

 

 

[lightmaster240z]

If you have any problem get one PM me. My neighbour own the local Jaycar store and I could put it in the post for you

Regrads

Bruce 

[zeds4ever]

Silly me Mark ,didn't check yor location , I tend to like a few wines while enjoying the Forum. I'm not that far away from Blacktown so i'll get my rse down there & get one. Thanks again & the Pics are more than helpful. Noted that u have a 240C, got a three core recndtd rdtr that has'nt been used you can have cheap if yer intrstd. No use to me.

 

                                                                                        Regards :Alan. 

[ozconnection]

Alan, check your personal messages. 

[zrevival]

Really useful photo's. if you did have a wiring diagram, that would be fantastic as well

[ozconnection]

Hey man, I don't know if your wiring colour codes are the same in your Datsun as they are in mine but here goes

 

The wires that meet at the voltage regulator connector are:

 

"W"  thick white wire, main power connected to the alternator and fusible link.

"WR" thin white wire with a red strip is the wire to the alt. light on the dash. It works with the yellow wire to keep the light off when the engine is running when a jumper wire is used between the two.

"B" Thick black wire is the earth wire for the car and wiring harness. It also earths the relay switch in this application.

"WB" wire is the trigger wire from the ign switch. A wire from here goes directly to one side of the temp. switch on the radiator.

 

Use a relay to hook it all up.

 

85 is earth, use the "B" wire

30 is the main power in line, use the "W" wire

87 is the power wire to the fan, use a 15 amp fuser in this line

86 is the relay trigger wire that returns from the temp switch, so it turns the fan on when the ign is on AND the temp of the radiator is high enough to close or complete the circuit.

 

Does this help? Use caution and use a multimeter to test everything so you don't accidentally fry your wiring.

 

Cheers. 

 

[zrevival]

cheers - that's really useful. Karma added