Daalp1 Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Gday fellas, Ive just got my first 240z, everything is all good except for the camoflage colour thing going on. Im a uni student so I dont have much dosh to spend on a proper painjob at the moment, hence if someone could tell me how to go about an effective 'backyard workshop' technique that will get me by. Please if you could tell me the kind of paints needed, tools required and procedure, it will be much appreciated. Cheers[/img] Quote
zedevan Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 i'd give the roller method a shot, saves having to buy alot of $$ in equipment to spray and turns out nearly as well as you can be bothered getting it to there's a thread on here about it http://www.viczcar.com/forums/about649-0.html the thread it all started from http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 and a pic of my test door goodluck! ur car looks like it sits nice and low at the back Quote
sid280 Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Painting a car can be done really cheap provided your willing to slave your ass off sanding. You can hire a spray gun for under $100 a day which is all you will need if you plan it right, and some decent automotive paint should be under $100 for 4L - dont use crap even if its a temp paint job because you will have to strip it all off later on. Pickup a can or 2 of a undercoat with some kind of filling agent in it, and spray a thick coat of that over any minor scratches then sand down flat, it should remove small scratches and marks without a problem and make the final paint job alot nicer with little cost / effort. On top of that it cant be picked up by a magnet unlike bog, so people cant accuse you of using bog anywhere Sand down all your patches with a 300 grit wet and dry sandpaper (wet) and give it a very light coat of undercoat followed by some 800-1000 grit also wet. You can do all this before you hire a spray gun and just do all the final work - 2 coats, over 1 sunny day. Make sure you use 1200 grit over the whole car before you spray the first top coat, and use 1200 again very lightly before the 2nd coat. If you still have time (and money) clean the spraygun and put a coat of clear over the whole lot. All the sanding gear should cost about $20 as you will only need a few sheets of each type of sandpaper and a rubber or cork block. I forked out another $100 in beer and had the whole thing done about 3 days with a Cortina Wagon with LOTS of dings. I have a spraygun at my parents house with an automotive nozzle, so if you want to meet up and do a spray job let me know because I need one too, and its easier to do 2 cars at once. Sid. Quote
Daalp1 Posted August 22, 2006 Author Posted August 22, 2006 Thanks guys, that was very helpful. I do have access to a spray gun and have a decent area to house the car, so I may aswell use these. Is there a certain type of paint I should be looking for (in respect to colour), and I heard that the clear coat at the end is very important to achieve a deep & vibrant colour; if this is true, how many coats is ideal? As for the sanding im happy to perform the laborious task -but how long can I take to sand the car down without it starting to corrode? or is there a way to prevent this? Thanks again PS: Ive got a terrible suroof going on at the moment, its the old pull back type -any ideas on what to do? eg: replace with a fixed, tinted glass or weld over a sheet of metal? Cheers Quote
sid280 Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 If you use your sandpaper wet, the area you are sanding will get smooth and you will feel it no longer needs to be sanded. If you actually go through the layer of paint you are sanding too hard, but with 1200 sandpaper it would take ages to cut through the top coat. The reason using more clear coat makes the paint job look deeper, is because it is! It might have upto 1mm of clear over the actual colour so it sits under the reflection and is more protected because if it. 2-3 coats is a standard kind of cover, but anywhere up to 10 coats is do-able, the more coats you do the lighter you make each coat. As for the sunroof it depends what you want to do with the car, if its a cruiser replace it with a fixed tinted glass (and an inside cover), if its a race car weld in a solid sheet for chassis rigidity. Colours - any decent automotive paint store will have most manufacturer's colours on file, the Z's might be a little old, so goto a car yard and get the colour code from under the bonnet of a car that you like the colour of and ask for that at the paint shop. Post if you have any more questions / problems... Quote
Daalp1 Posted August 23, 2006 Author Posted August 23, 2006 Okay let me know if I got this right: 1. Sand the car with a low grit sandpaper to get current paint off 2. Purchase and use an undercoat incorporating a filling agent -spraying a thick coat on problem areas and an even coat on rest :? 3. Sand down any patches with 300 grit wet/dry sandpaper, wet. :? 4. Apply another light coat of the undercoat, then sand down, progressing from 800 to 1200. :x 5. Apply first coat of chosen colour; once set, sand down again very lightly with the 1200 grit before appyling a second coat of colour. :wink: 6. Apply 2 or more coats of clear to achieve desired look. 7. Drink beer with mates :lol: Quote
Slow_Zed Posted August 23, 2006 Posted August 23, 2006 You can do it easier than that. yes get rid of the old stuff. Get some EPOTEC, as primer / undercoat, its fantastic, and build really well, give a guide coat and then dry sand with 240 and finish with 400 dry. Put on 3 coats of colour, allowing about 20 mins between coats for them to tack off. step back and smile..... :lol: use 2-pac, its easier to get a good finish, if you have a good area to spray in. Quote
JP240z Posted August 23, 2006 Posted August 23, 2006 Just had my roof replaced as I had the exact vynil sunroof ready to go onto my car. I would say the cost would be about $800, but it is impossible to fill the hole in with a glass sunroof. This was my plan but when I found out that it wasn't possible as the hole for the vynil sunroof is too big, I saw Lindsay at Zshop and am very happy with the results, even if he did break my brand new windscreen. I'm guessing this is not a viable option with your current funds, but glass sunroof is definately not possible. I suggest buying a new second hand roof for about $250 to keep the curve in the roof. Cheers, JP. Quote
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