240zoom Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Hi guys, I did a bit of a history in the intro area about this nice little 73 I picked up and imported from Japan. It needs alot of work but nothing too serious. Without pulling the motor apart so far we know it has: Read LSD 3.5inch exhaust off the headers L28 EFI motor Chrome Molley flywheel Lumpy Cam Watanabe rims (not shown in pics on car) Bride driver racing seat A bit of surface rust but nothing serious Airconditioning (no pump anymore but will fix that!) Rear as been gusseted for strength Plans as follows: Engine rebuild (just for the hell of it and to see what's been done) Watanabes brought back to original Full respray new carpets Dash reskin (surprise surprise) New interior All new rubbers New front rotors It's really straight which is a bonus and the plan is to pretty much try and get it back into original shape more or less (without swapping motors etc...) Some pics to follow when resized Quote
240zoom Posted January 16, 2009 Author Posted January 16, 2009 Some photos. Here's my first stupid question. In the engine bay there is a bottle on the drivers side. I am not really sure what this is. Is it some kind of vacuum reservoir??? I am a bit of a dill on that kinda stuff. the engine is already out and being worked on Quote
NZeder Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Welcome to the site - sorry to be anal but you car is not a 240z but a S31 Fairlady Z the 240z is a HS30 and your is for sure a S31 - I can tell buy looking at the pics. Not that matters I have RS30 which is a 260z 2 seater and is the same body as your car. They have the 240z shape and that is all that matters Others like the 240z more but on this site you will find zed ownership is the key You can confirm what your car is by looking at the chassis code on the firewall just above the brake booster etc it will be S31-xxxxx if a Fairlady Z that left the factory with a L20aE and that is what the bottle you are asking about it is a vacuum/anti pollution thing.....you can remove it. The car will not be a 73 also - those taller strut towers in the rear were not released until the 75 model so you have 75 model at least and the chassis code will give you an idea of the true ID of the car ie Dad's old S31-005360 was infact a 76 car. I hope this helps Car looks nice and rust free from the pics - so excellent purchase I like these bodies better as they have all the strong parts, larger suspension struts, stronger struts towers, longer taller chassis rails, better seat mounting setup than a 240z, different dash, doors (non burstable locks) and door linings, lower radiator support panel (shown in your pics the 240z is almost straight across) for a larger radiator hole = better cooling, 2 gas struts on the rear hatch not one like the 240z....there is more but those are main ones. This is why I still have mine yes it does add extra weight but just add extra power Once again welcome to the site. Cheers Mike Quote
NZeder Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Cool still has the Fairlady Grill in it too guys have to pay big $$ for a look like that (if you want the original grill that is) Quote
dazzed Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 sorry didnt see the pics , your car is a 280z not 280zx it should have a cat convertor on it , but to answer your question the bottle is a vaccuum storage tank for the heater and ventilation system no cables here, dont go pulling any hoses off unless you have a problem it Quote
240zoom Posted January 16, 2009 Author Posted January 16, 2009 thanks for the information. The firewall chassis number is actually S3014315 which made me believe it was more like a 1973-74 build but happy for the information. It's the only stamped number I have to go off in order to work out what the car is. Is there a site anywhere which records the chassis numbers and gives a better insight to the true build date? Motor is definitely a L28 Quote
modular9 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Great looking car! Good luck with the rebuild. Oh and I live in QLD so got rid of the heater/ventilation bottle as well as the aircon. Aircon makes me feel sick and i liberated about 120 hp by not having it suck up rotational power. Joking about the 120 hp more like 118.3hp on the butt-dyno v 1.3 Keep us updated. Quote
NZeder Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 thanks for the information. The firewall chassis number is actually S3014315 which made me believe it was more like a 1973-74 build but happy for the information. It's the only stamped number I have to go off in order to work out what the car is. Is there a site anywhere which records the chassis numbers and gives a better insight to the true build date? Motor is definitely a L28 No for the JDM Fairlady Z that I know of - the chassis code of S30 (with no H or R in front does tell us it is a Fairlady Z and left the factory with a L20, 2000cc motor) however the body does look S31 but this might be a last of the S30 before the S31 were started. You can't go by the other markets chassis records for the date of the car as in Japan the sales were slower so S3014315 might be a 74/75 so you might have one of the last S30 built - but who knows you could write to Nissan in Japan and ask - I did with HS30-00016 and got told it was built in 70 but HLS30-x1000 (ish) were built in 69. So who know - looks to be a good car Quote
240zoom Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Thanks Nzeder for the wealth of information so far. I'm pretty stoked to get to the bottom of this. I am assuming being a Fairlady that I should be looking for standard 260Z interior panels etc... to suit rather than the 240z? When I look at blackdragon etc... It don't tell you which way to go and I lurvvv to buy toys for my car Quote
ZD44TT Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 any side pics of your car..........your avatar is killing me = ) Quote
240zoom Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 Here is a pic taken in Japan where it was parked. You can see the Watanabe's on it. the best part was there was another set in the boot so am setting the second set up with semi slicks as they are 2 x 14x7's and 2 x 14x7.5's Shame they weren't magnesium though Quote
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