pauly_adams Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 hey im currently having trouble with my z. my z will not fire over and is makeing this awfull sucking noise. about 3 days ago it was running perfectly fine had no problems what so ever then i removed dash to fix my heater and now it just wont turn over. ive pluged in all the gauges etc the dash itself is not in the car though due to this problem. my L26 has always been very strong and never realy had a problem starting before. in the past 6 months i have replaced the head, plugs, leads, all parts of dizzy, and alternator with a reco from a L28. can some one please help as i cant figure it out ist a if its not sparking but sometimes kicks over then dies. cheers pauly Quote
George Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 where is that sucking noise coming from precisely? Quote
Scoota G Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 Is the sucking noise there when you turn it over? Wjere does it originate from? It sounds like the booster Vaccuum tube. There are some bolt to undo the dash in the engine bay me thinks so you could have split disturbed the Brake Booster line then. The starting problem sounds like a Negative Earth problem. Check that all your Electricals are workin (light, horn, heater) and have them on when you try to start it. Just suggestions till we get more info. :-\ Quote
pauly_adams Posted May 22, 2008 Author Posted May 22, 2008 the sucking noise sounds like its coming from the front of my engine alos i have a 350 holley not twin sus, as for the eletrics they all work. but the z just wont start and cant figure out y. its as if it has no spark but it did start just ran like a dog backfired then died. i thortit may be fuel so i put more in but the problem is still there hope this helps the diognossis cheers pauly Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted May 22, 2008 Moderators Posted May 22, 2008 Hey Pauly, go back to the basics....make sure you have a good strong consistent spark, make sure the fuel pump is giving you fuel by taking off the fuel line and cranking, but first make sure you have a good strong battery! if the cranking voltage goes below 10V, it ain't gonna start! Also remove your plugs and make sure it's not flooded or plugs are fouled. Quote
fufu Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 Hey Pauly, go back to the basics....make sure you have a good strong consistent spark, make sure the fuel pump is giving you fuel by taking off the fuel line and cranking, but first make sure you have a good strong battery! if the cranking voltage goes below 10V, it ain't gonna start! Also remove your plugs and make sure it's not flooded or plugs are fouled. To test the spark as mentioned above... remove the ignition cable at the distributor (one in the centre of the distributor cap, more specifically the ballast coil (cylinder electrical thing) connects to the distributor by this ignition cable)... and ground it to the chassis and watch the spark jump from the metal tip of the cable to the chassis(grounded metal), when your cranking of-course. There has to be a constant spark and a constant rhythm. Just clarifying as we don't know what level technical you are. *edit* I forgot to mention... once this has been checked its an even safer bet for you to test each plug... so that the spark is followed through all the way to the combustion chamber. How to do this... remove 1 spark plug at a time... hook it back up into its corresponding ignition cable... point the end tip of the spark plug to the chassis and crank. If you see and hear the spark for that specific spark plug then onto the next one, they should spark the same, eg. sound and look, unless you got dirty spark inconsistent plugs. Regardless if you have 1 plug not working... your engine should still run but on 1 less cylinder and you will backfire and it will feel jerky and lots of power loss. Then you need to diagnose whether its the plug or the distributor. Just switch the spark plugs around, one you know is working... if same problem persists then switch a ignition cable to check it isn't the cable... its a distributor problem. (*hint, don't jumble your cables, if you jumble they won't fire your spark plugs right and you will have non-working cylinders and backfiring, better yet take a photo before you remove more then 1 ignition cable) Thats my little writeup for testing spark and distributor. Quote
chris240 Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 didnt you have a starting prob about 3-4 months ago ? or am I confusing this with another thread... anyway, check to see that a vacuum hose hasnt dropped off somewhere. That #*$^!! holley of yours must have 100 hoses coming off it. had you been tinkering with anything just prior to this happening other than the dash...maybe dizzy, carby ?? Quote
pauly_adams Posted May 22, 2008 Author Posted May 22, 2008 thats just the thing the only thing i have done is removed the dash before that it was running sweet. the fuel pump is fine, im starting to think it may be the coil. is there anything under the dash which could cause this problem. i also know what its like to be down a cylender as i had a lead come off a couple of weeks back. as for the starting problem a few months back i had my cam timing out but soon realised what went wrong. cheers pauly Quote
Scoota G Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 I had a car that through one wire not being earthed properly under the dash all Hell had broken loose in the electrical system.Do you have an Earth Strap to the engine and the Battery? I just fixed a ford that needed only an earth strap to the Chassis to start and run correctly. Unfortunate problem with your car is that it will probably be a process of elimination. But keep an open mind as the problem might not be where you think it is. But it looks like you have a lot of support anyways. Quote
pauly_adams Posted May 23, 2008 Author Posted May 23, 2008 i only have the one eart wire coming from my valve cover, im about to go check to make sure no bolts have come loose off my manifolds then comes the carbie only time will tell thanks for the help and ill let u know how it went cheers pauly Quote
pauly_adams Posted May 23, 2008 Author Posted May 23, 2008 ok i think ive narrowed it down to the coil or carbie but my bets on the coil ill c how things go tomorow cheers pauly Quote
pauly_adams Posted June 6, 2008 Author Posted June 6, 2008 ok i finaly got my zd o start after 2 weeks it worked out to be a combo of things. i ended up replacing my points, plugs again and one lead i thort was a but suss ,turned out to be fine though. now all i have to do is change the needle in my holley and should be running sweet again. thanks for all the input. cheers pauly Quote
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