Additional Oil Pressure/temp Sensors

[Riceburner]

I'm adding some 52mm Kameari gauges for the new engine, I have oil temp and oil pressure that need to be fitted. Water temp is sorted with a new thermostat housing.

 

I'm thinking of two different options...

1) Fit new oil temp in sump drain plug position, would need to be removed for oil changes. Add a billet 'Y' piece to the block and fit new pressure sensor with the factory pressure sensor in the OEM position.

 

2) Fit a sandwhich plate, use the two holes for the new temp/pressure gauges.

 

What does everyone recommend? Will the sandwhich plate still allow normal oil flow if both outlets are blocked?

Edited October 7, 2015 by Gareth. J.

[Riceburner]

I found this sandwich plate for $34, it says it's specifically for fitting addition oil gauges. The guts of it look fully open, so to me it seems like it should be ok for the job and have no restrictions.

 

Is this a safe way to do it?

 

http://www.neon-technologies.com.au/products/silver-oil-sandwich-plate-for-installing-oil-gauge-sensors-universal-fit

[dat2kman]

Better to measure oil temp in a volume flow position, ie at a sandwich plate, or f running a oil cooler, a reading after oil has passed through the cooler.

 

Measuring at sump, will give higher readings due to incresded latent heat, as the bulk quantity of oil has just come down from engine internals, and will be at very high temp levels. ,( they get quite scary! Have seen 140deg C at sump sensors!)

[Riceburner]

Ok, so flow temps going into the motor are the best point to measure. Looks like I'll go with that sandwich plate to start off with then.

 

Not sure if I'll need an oil cooler yet, will depend on what the gauges say.

[CBR Jeff]

It's all relative but and its a big but. If you measure the temp going into the motor you are measuring the temp at the best point. If you measure it in the sump you measure it at its worst point. So put another way if you measure any fluid after its done its job that's the point it will indicate a problem first not after its had the heat removed or dissipated.

I could babble on about mass flow calculations delta temperatures and specific heat capacity of various oils but put simply you want to know two things with oil. That its lubricsting and has the desired flow rate against a defined resistance ie pressure and its helping remove heat of compression and the resultant load. This is represented by temperature difference. The leaving oil temp will better represent work done.

[Riceburner]

So Jeff are you saying it's better to measure the temp after it's gone through the engine in the sump?

 

The block will have a little grout filling so I anticipate more heat soak in the oil. No cooler at this stage but I believe I will need one.

[CBR Jeff]

Gareth

 

Yes I am saying that. If you start to get extra friction in the engine it will be indicated by extra heat output into the oil. So best place to monitor will be oil in the sump. Remembering the oil temp will vary directly proportional with the load.

Measuring the temp here will also show you very quickly if a cooler is needed.

 

Jeff.

Edited October 9, 2015 by CBR Jeff

[Riceburner]

I have a spare 280 sump that's has an extra port in the sump with a temp sensor in it, so I guess it makes sense if the factory did it that way too.

 

It's a 9.5ltr baffled sump, so it will be interesting to see how it all goes. I'll get the cheapo sandwich plate for the extra pressure sensor and then try the temp sensor in the sump plug as it seems to be the same size.

 

Thanks gents