PeterAllen Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 As the title suggest. I've fitted a new cable but seem to have run out of adjustment before the parking brake actuates? Wondering if I need a cable specific to the 240? Quote
600Z Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Might be a silly question Peter but I take it your using the original drum brakes? If so no doubt you have adjusted the drum it's self before the handbrake? Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 8, 2015 Author Posted April 8, 2015 I've modified the rear brakes a bit. I have Wilwoods with a modified version of WOZA's parking brake mount. Warren supplied the cables but I remember there was a need to open up the tunnel mounts as the cables were designed for 260 fittings. I'm just wondering if the cable lengths are the same for 240 and 260 2-seaters? Quote
600Z Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Ah no problem I have no idea if there the same length or not. The setup looks good, what stub axle are you running there? Quote
Scoota G Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 They are the same. I have one out of the car if you want me to measure it. Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 8, 2015 Author Posted April 8, 2015 Mark. I feel sure all WOZA's cables would be the same and the issue hasn't been raised before so i must be doing something wrong. Does this look correct? Justin - I'm using standard 260Z 27 spline stub axles. I'm only running 7" rear with narrow tyres. I'm pretty sure it will break traction before it breaks anything mechanical. Quote
Retro Z Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Yes they are the same. I have several that i have removed from 240-260z all identical Quote
Scoota G Posted April 8, 2015 Posted April 8, 2015 Mark. I feel sure all WOZA's cables would be the same and the issue hasn't been raised before so i must be doing something wrong. Does this look correct? Hey Peter, hope you are well. You may need to reclock the bracket for more adjustment, we had the same issue with the 2+2 V8 and Sam's car (for some reason my 2 seater was perfect. There are details on the interwebby on how to do this but basically it involves re positioning the second bracket for more "Pull" I can do a demo one and post pics if you like. Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 Hey Peter, hope you are well... You must be psychic, I had a ride in an ambulance yesterday but all is okay. ... You may need to re-clock the bracket for more adjustment,... I can do a demo one and post pics if you like. Thanks Mark. I understand what you are saying about re-clocking - was that with std. cables or WOSA's? I read where some pommies had made tube sleeves (about 35 mm long)to slip over the long rod and alter its lock nut position. It's simple enough so I think I'll try that first. Quote
Cozza Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Hi Peter Could you tap the thread further along the adjusting rod? I can see a sleeve would be very simple too. Great to see your car is getting closer, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting close now Mate Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 Mick. I ran a die nut over the existing thread as the rod was a little bent near the lock nut and I had straightened it, but I thought running if further might leave the new thread exposed to corrosion. Last Wednesday I sat in the car, started the engine, selected 2nd (it jumped out of 1st!), let the clutch out and drove it out of the shed. I believe it's the first time since 1998 that the car has moved under its own power. The doors are still causing headaches. Quote
Scoota G Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 You must be psychic, I had a ride in an ambulance yesterday but all is okay. No good buddy, glad you are ok! Try fitting a shorter secondary bolt and and winding back the longer one. Quote
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