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Posted

So I have pulled apart a spare early box that I got with my zed as the box in it is crunching quite badly. My intention was to rebuild this one and swap it in but that's not going to happen now as the... long story.

 

Anyways, I have everything apart and I have come to a bit of an impass with the synchros. I've dealt with brass ring based synchros before but I am not entirely sure how to check these warner type synchros.

 

I have a couple of manuals and they all have a rather vague description/picture of how to check for wear and I think I have it but I wanted to check with you guys first.

 

The link below has pictures of the coupler pressed on to the baulk ring, as far as I can tell I should be measuring the distance between the edge of the baulk ring and where the coupler pushed up onto it? I figure its like brass cones where if the coupler pushes up to far then it's worn.

 

(Please note: in the photo the feeler gauge isn't against the coupler - I know, I was in a rush - :P )

 

http://imgur.com/a/yYMxs#0

Posted

Hey Kodie

 

You've got the idea...the concept of the synchro is the same as for brass ones. As you may be aware, synchros can be a bit like can openers....ones that do work look the same as ones that don't! I have had synchros that meet the wear test but still don't work so great. As it is usually the 2nd and 3rd gear synchros that wear, you can always swap with the ones on 1st and 4th. If when you compare the clearance (as you have shown in your pictures) you notice a marked difference in the engagement and obvious wear present in the synchro/gear cone combination, then put the best ones on 2nd and 3rd, and replace any that just aren't good enough to go back in.

 

In the days when I rebuilt gearboxes for a job, I did see synchros that looked ok wear-wise, but still were prone to crunching...so there is more going on that just the physical wear...they seem to lose their condition or something, and don't create the same friction they did when new.

 

Cheers

 

 

Jamo

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