Ball joint question

[G]

I'm currently rebuilding the whole front end of my 240 and have hit a snag regarding the ball joints.

 

I purchased the ball joints as part of an Energy Suspension kit of all rubbers, tie rod ends etc.

 

Anyway, the new ball joints are different to the old ones. The new ones are a sealed unit, rather than greased and come with a nylock rather than an pin and castle nut.

 

Everything else appears the same.

 

The old castle nut doesn't fit the new thread so I can't re-use it. When I go to tighten the nylock down, at the point where the thread hits the plastic inside the nut, the ball spins and the nut won't tighten down.

 

Additionally, it didn't seem that difficult to get the threaded part through the knuckle, despite the original needing a splitter to get it apart.

 

Any ideas what I'm doing wrong here?

 

 

[dat2kman]

Are you assembling the BJ to the strut?

And it still turns the BJ taper?

If so, try some light sandpaper in the hole, you could have a bit of crud there, or worse, a ridge, that will need a light file.

 

Are you sure the BJ is the correct taper?

Once belted up into place, the taper should hold firm enough for the nut.

 

Oh, and if not assembled, take the bj if it has a hole for a split pin, to a nut/bolt supply,  and get some castellated nuts. Ie a pisitive locking.

 

Yes, modern stuff these days are built to last less time, hence not greasable.

[NZeder]

You still get units that have castle nuts and grease hole (don't come with nipples just a small bolt filling the hole). These are 555 brand and will cost a lot more.

[G]

Hi Jason

 

I'm assembling the ball joint to the knuckle (not sure that that arm is referred to) and it just slides in, I don't need to force it. I'm referring to the arm which bolts up under the strut.

If I try to put the threaded taper in the wrong way it's definitely an interference fit so there is taper in the hole. Don't worry, I had it the correct way around!

 

I'm now wondering if I have the incorrect balljoint taper. I've taken some photos, but it isn't clear. The threaded part is definitely smaller in diameter.

 

Shame Moorabbin Auto Spares isn't open today as I know he has some 555 ones on the shelf!

 

Are you assembling the BJ to the strut?

And it still turns the BJ taper?

If so, try some light sandpaper in the hole, you could have a bit of crud there, or worse, a ridge, that will need a light file.

 

Are you sure the BJ is the correct taper?

Once belted up into place, the taper should hold firm enough for the nut.

 

Oh, and if not assembled, take the bj if it has a hole for a split pin, to a nut/bolt supply,  and get some castellated nuts. Ie a pisitive locking.

 

Yes, modern stuff these days are built to last less time, hence not greasable.

[adam]

What you could try is have the ball joint bolted to the lower control arm, put on the steering arm, and since you can't tighten that nut, leave it loose for the time being, reinstall your strut and get a jack to push the lower control up force the steering arm into the new ball joint. Take the strut back out and try tightening the nut on the ball joint now. It should be tight enough, if not you might need an impact/rattle gun to get it on.

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

 

Edit: Sorry, I only just realised now this was already suggested above..

[G]

OK, well it seems likes the driver's side joint is OK and I just need to force it up into the taper.

What do you guys use? Do you use the nut to push the knuckle down onto the taper, or do you give the base of the ball joint a whack?