Bled Brakes... came back a few days later and no pedal at all??

[PZG302]

If you haven't yet, bleed the front brakes, odds on this is your problem because of the weeping block letting air into the system. It doesn't take much.

 

Any time you do something to the brakes check the obvious first. Make sure everything is tight and doesn't leak. Then bleed all the brakes. And if you still have problems then you look for other faults.

 

[benny]

If you haven't yet, bleed the front brakes, odds on this is your problem because of the weeping block letting air into the system. It doesn't take much.

 

Any time you do something to the brakes check the obvious first. Make sure everything is tight and doesn't leak. Then bleed all the brakes. And if you still have problems then you look for other faults.

 

 

will definitely give this a go as soon as i have time!!

 

 

[benny]

and its fixed!! was a combination of things.

 

 

1. "New Master" was leaking internally

 

 

2. Previous workshop had mixed lines up on firewall meaning that the front circuit was operating 1 front calliper and the two rear and the rear circuit was powering one drivers calliper, simply swapped these back.

 

 

3. I Failed to check that the front callipers were on the correct side (they were upside down) so they were full of air. I also moved the rear callipers around while bleeding.

 

 

4. I built my own pressure bleeder... so worth it cost about $30 to build and makes it a true one man job. I will put together a post about this later.

 

 

So relieved this is now solved!!

[nizm0zed]

excellent news!!

Always good when you get to the bottom of a problem.

[Riceburner]

Nice one Ben, had me stumped for sure. Look forward to the "build your own pressure bleeder" thread, it'll be very handy for many people here including me.

[C.A.R.]

Nice one Ben, had me stumped for sure. Look forward to the "build your own pressure bleeder" thread, it'll be very handy for many people here including me.

 

THIS! ^

 

Tutorial or BAN!

[dat2kman]

One of my cars has a set of tyre valve fittings attached to the screw on lids on the master cylinders, it runs balance bar, so two cylinders, two caps, two threaded tyre inflating valves.

There is a hydraulic handbrake in rear line,

 

By using a bicycle pump, i can put approx 3psi, ie one pump, into the half filled large master reservior.

When i crack the bleed nipples, fluid comes fair shooting out.

 

There is no need to have anyone sitting in car pumping pedal X3, hold, crack/bleed, ,,, repeat etc.

[bryan3976]

im having the exactly the same issue my master was rebuilt aswell. thanks for this will try the  things listed out hopefully it works

 

[red76z]

I just spent 2 hours to get a good peddle with the rear working but the front didn't want to play the game. I eventually got under the dash and removed the peddle bump stop allowing the peddle to move back a couple of millimetres and this instantly got the air and sponge feeling out of the system.  This causes the piston inside the master cylinder to get the full stroke and pass any galleries inside the master. Try this trick on your next brake bleeding mission.

[dat2kman]

I just spent 2 hours to get a good peddle with the rear working but the front didn't want to play the game. I eventually got under the dash and removed the peddle bump stop allowing the peddle to move back a couple of millimetres and this instantly got the air and sponge feeling out of the system.  This causes the piston inside the master cylinder to get the full stroke and pass any galleries inside the master. Try this trick on your next brake bleeding mission.

Your pedal adjuster rod was incorrectly adjusted, not allowing full piston retraction.