L31 Stroker - what should I expect to pay?

Hi guys,

Just doing some research.  So going to straight to the source.

Wanting to know what I should expect to pay for an L28 Stroker?  I have read other posts and I am aware of the pro's and con's.

Also appreciate that there is the V8, RB30, RB25 route than can also be taken.

So the stroker...I can get my hands on one - no intake or clutch though - for a touch under 5K.  Brand new - fresh build.  N42 head, performance cam etc.

Would need to add another $350 for a decent clutch.

Price is getting up there a little...

Then there is the intake.....a little undecided on that right now though.  I see some Zeders go for injection....dunno.  Triples...also worth considering.

I know the stroker v's other discussion has been had.  This is more a "cost" related investigation.

Cheers.

Some advice - you will never get a decent clutch for $350 for a stroker you want a twin or triple plate really and that is closer to $1000. Yes you could run a large heavier than ........ (insert your fav choice word) and when you kill your 3rd $350 clutch in as many months you will see that dropping $1000 from the start is a good way to go.

To build a good stroker (without doing any work your self) and by good I mean over 240RWHP (300+ flywheel) you will need a budget of $15K at least

Yep the stroker is the least bang per buck, ie the most expensive option for hp that could be achieved more cheaply with a different motor, or a turbo L series. But it does have the coolness factor of still being an L series under the bonnet.

If your on a tight budget, then spend the $5000 on another motor.

5K for fresh built stroker?!?!?!? I would be asking a lot of questions and pulling it down again to find out what is actually in the motor and the full details of what has been done unless you know who exactly built it and why it's going so cheap. There are only a handful of engine builders in Aus. that I would trust to build a good stroker, and of those I would have my preferences and they would be charging a lot more than $5k to build one.

Fora example, what performace cam??? My stroker runs a 74 degree grind as I use injection with the standard turbo log, the 76 degree cam didn't work, where it probably will on triples. The cam I have produces plenty of torque from 3500 and makes maximum power around 6800 with maximum revs used 7200.

My freshen up for my stroker has ended up blowing out from about $2.5k for rings and bearings to I have know idea, but have spent $3k so far on bits and machining. I would expect the final bill to be in the $6-8k range.

As for clutch, I use a single plate button clutch, but in 1998 it still cost a lot more than $350. The latest big single plate clutch I had made for my Charger project, looking at around 320-350hp at the wheels was over $700 at better than mate's rates, being put together by the exedy rep in Queensland as a special favour.

Induction: you have the choice of either triples or injection, both done properly will set you back a good amount of cash, again, I have recently done triples for my Charger, and the bill was for $3k for the carbies, manifold and linkages, then I have the cost of tuning them on the dyno. This could be done cheaper, but you will not be getting good quality bits and you don't want to skimp on costs for a decent motor.

Injection will cost a similar amount to do simply with standard manifold and a reasonable after market computer plus tuning.

In summary look at spending at least another $5k on top of the purchase price of the long motor.

People here in NZ have purchased motors in the past that are meant to be this or that (some claimed to be strokers) but when they were installed the performance was not as expected.

After a strip down the truth is always found. Sad thing is you see these guys part with some good cash for nothing special.

As stated if you get the engine for $5K and it is a stroker then I would expect nothing special for that amount of $$ good head work with new valves, welding, guides etc would cost $3+K and that is what is required for the extra cc and real power gains.

Anyway what car is the engine going in? What about the rest of the drive train? Gearbox up to the torque of a stroker? Diff?

It will all add up

Good luck and let's hope it is a good engine

I have been looking into something similar and the only stroker I would buy complete would be the Rebello race engines. I have have an itemised quote from them and the work they do to the engine is extensive and apparently top notch.  Not cheap ($15,000 USD) but I don't know of anyone getting 360hp at the flywheel from any stroker and this is totally complete with headers, ignition and choice of webers or $1000 extra for ITB's dyno tuned.  This is for the 3.2L engine at 11.1 compression so may be overkill for the street. 

There is a guy on ebay-US selling complete stroker long motors for only $3500, but he claims to not balance the engines because they don't need it (WTF?)  I wouldn't trust him as people on the US chat rooms have warned to stay away from him.

Both have quoted $1000 for shipping to Australia.  Then exhaust upgrades and maybe clutch / diff etc,  it adds up, but the benefit is no need to jump through hoops to get it engineered and registered, keep the L-series factor and they sound bloody amazing.  You tube has a guy driving around the street in a Rebello stroker of some kind and it is awesome. 

There is a guy on ebay-US selling complete stroker long motors for only $3500, but he claims to not balance the engines because they don't need it (WTF?)

Should have seen how much they took off my crank to balance it. It's in my Gallery.

Yeah - saw that guy in the states as well.  Fair point about the balancing....

After a lot more thought and based on the comments I have read - will skip going down the stroker path.  Might be more trouble than it is worth.

I start another post regarding the RB30 engines and already people have thrown me further options to consider.

Think I am narrowing it down though....

RB30, RB25DET or maybe the simplest option - L28ET.

See other post to continue discussion... 

Cheers for the advice guys.

Shan

Shan, a well built L28 will give you anything up to 200hp at the wheels and can still be made very streetable and give you good bang for your bucks. You should be able to get change out of $10k for a smartly built motor by someone who knows how to get a lot out of them. They are a different beast to build than the old red 202, or hemi 265.

Depending on final spec, you could build a L28 out to around 2.9 litres, depending on how much of an overbore the block will take, use a standard crank, the longer 133mm rods, some custom pistons and some head work, all of this will pretty much all need to be done anyway if you go down the L28ET route.

The advantage of the L series route is you don't need to spend money on the hardware for the RB swap.

My only preference would be to use EFI with a good after market computer, for mine either Haltech or Motech.

Thanks for the advice guys.

L28 is most likely the way I will go.

Just got to find someone decent to build one for me.

Suggestions?