benv

Update: I have been quite busy, cleaned and reinstalled center tunnel fuel and brake lines. Stripped the main body to bare metal and uncovered the worst bondo surprises, Jeff CBR and I should have a competition for the most unexpected find underneath bondo. I suspect his bonnet may win though. I also moved the lca holes (+19,+6) in the front cross member to correct bump steer. Some general pics to follow soon. It is hard to keep these build threads interesting as restoring zeds seems to be a well defined science and most of us go through a similar process. Anyway I did rebuild my early proportioning/delay valve: The rebuild kit includes one o-ring and two seals. The hardest part is removing the tiny cir-clip in the chamber holding the spring and plunger in place. I used two small watchmalkers screw drivers. I used brake fluid for cleaning the parts and for lubrication. When reinserting the circlip one needs to make sure it is in the lower groove, not just below the bolt threads

Looks Excellent! For a moment I thought you were going to POR15 the engine bay.

Hi Jeff Long story short. I bought quite a bit of POR for the project. I did my inner front fenders with POR15. 3 step process as you do after stripping to bare metal ,I washed, metal prep and POR. During my work on stripping the engine bay I managed to bump/chip 3 areas where the POR was painted. All three these areas was clean fresh metal,wit no previous rust. So I lost confidence. From then on I rather used my DeBeer epoxy primer (very tuff) and then 2K on stripped chassis areas, interior and my engine bay which I am very happy with. The Lizard skin is exactly like a bed liner and sits on 2 coats of Epoxy primer, it is hard to keep clean though and needs a top coat. So I am using a very expensive topcoat called POR15. It is clear that POR is excellent on rusty metal but I have no way to tell after metal prep that the POR will bond well enough. Apologies for the lengthy explanation.

New floors epoxy primed underneath and then sprayed with Lizard skin. This creates a very similar under body textured look compared to the original coating. (Lizard skin is quite easy to spray) Then will be coated with POR which I am using on my entire chassis. Its the first time I am using POR and the jury is still out....

Engine bay - what a job at least 3 days stripping, wire brushing, dremel etc. So hard to get in underneath battery tray. Epoxy primed and then 2K single stage 904 Datsun White. In the oven for baking. All the tabs holding wire harness was rusted underneath the factory rubber coating. Had to remove all the rubber bits. Got some good advice from Jeff on recreating protective rubber coating on tabs using heat-shrink. Will try the double wall type, maybe two layers.

Yes, I am having to search for and buy almost every rubber weatherstrip item individually on yahoo to get nos items.

Mossy Yes, out of stock everywhere, but on closer inspection mine still looks remarkably good. So I will probably replace all my other bushes and leave these intact.

Hi The floors come with some tabs cut already, they are far from a good fit on the tunnel side and requires a lot of work. In retrospect I would have welded my tabs up before bonding the floor in place. There are no rivets in the floor panels, what you see is short m4 button head stainless screws with washers and nuts. I could remove them if I wanted too.

dat240z The car is a K1 Attack from Prague , they were initially produced in limited quantities with V6 Ford engines and revived again in 2012 as a space frame and body part kit. Factory and pricing here: http://www.b-racing.cz/en/ My build here: https://www.facebook.com/K1AttackTaketwo/ Most Attacks are build with Honda engines today, mine is a 2grfe Toyota V6, strangely I have never heard of Nissan powered one, it would be perfect for an SR,RB or VQ build. Judging by the skills of the guys on this forum, most zed owners will be able to build one.

Lets move on to Frame Rails and other cavities rusting from the inside out. I think these structural elements are often overlooked, even with all the bare metal restores I look at, If rockers or frame rails are not replaced they still may have rust inside. My attempt/approach is as follows: Clean all the loose material through the frame rail access/drain holes with bottle type brush (if possible), compressed air, thin tube vacuum. Very time consuming. Then I spray with the following product which comes with a nifty nozzle which can be pushed right up into the front and rear rails, rockers, doglegs etc.

I was contemplating beforehand whether I should post on this forum as I expected some reaction. Floors are bonded with Fusor panel adhesive. The screws you see are stainless m4 flanged button heads used for clamping. and are now seam sealed. New rails were attached with Mig plug welds. Hi Jeff I have been following your build with interest, good work. At the moment I actually work in Canberra in the week and commute back to Brisbane weekends. Guys Its 2017 and technology has moved on. 3M and Fusor Panel adhesives are used to bond roofs, floors, quarter panels etc in most new production vehicles. Often stronger than welds in tests. I build this car last year. Build thread here: https://www.facebook.com/K1AttackTaketwo/ In this case the entire floor (a carbon fibre composite sandwich) is bonded to the space frame with structural epoxy. The frame and floor was then subjected to a beam and torsion test as required by the ADR's for compliance and passed with ease.

lol Gareth yes, if I could find an intake manifold, second option is rb20det

ZF Flares, bought mine from RHD Japan and they fit perfectly. This is not for the faint hearted and a difficult task. Marking and cutting is ok, but folding the inner fender back to create a lip again to the outer fender is not simple. Then doing a good weld to restore the integrity and strength of the body on thin stretched steel is tough. at least I could rust treat the entire inner fender area. I still need to epoxy prime and seam seal the new fender lip. These cars seem to all rust in different places? My battery holder and radiator cross bar is perfect. Both floors rusted out, horisontal plate between rear quarter below fuel filler rusted out. Rust below sound deadening inside. Rhs outer rocker front rusted out. Cowl Panel rusted in side. Toolbox/storage area rust holes in bottom.

Both Floors needed replacing so I ordered floors and rails from Z-Findings. Floors are bonded with Fusior panel adhesive. The screws you see are stainless m4 flanged button heads used for clamping. and are now seam sealed. New rails were attached with Mig welded plug welds. Main reason being I have seen very few neat butt welds on new floors on the thin and fragile centre tunnel steel. I was going to re-use the original seat brackets but the exact place where strength is needed, the bottom seat of the brackets were very thin from rust. So I had to order a set from Bad dog in the US.

I have a very limited work area so am always moving project cars around to make space. Here some pics of the stripping process. Drilling small pilot holes in hinges for re-positioning one day.

Bought a rust free white 240z in Sydney about 8 weeks ago (paid far too much) and had it transported to Brisbane. Then spend the next 8 weeks fixing & removing rust! I really cannot complain to much if I look at the size of the repairs others had to endure in the past. The goal is to build a similar car to the Fugu Zed built a few years ago in California.

Guys Still after a pair of new nos mustache rubber bar bushes? Any ideas appreciated.

Hi happy to take the whole bar if bushes are new and the bar is same as 240z bar. Ben (0419154471)

Please a pair of oem bushes if somebody has some. Ben (Brisbane)

No, the floors are bonded with Fusior panel adhesive. The screws you see are stainless m4 flanged button heads used for clamping. and are now seam sealed. Main reason being I have seen very few neat buttwelds on new floors on the thin and fragile centre tunnel steel.

Look who's back! (The white car) . Well I bought it about 6 weeks ago. Paid $7000 to much I think. In the end it was not rust free (lol), I have just replaced both floors with ones from Z-findings and have quite a bit of rust to fix. Anyway no turning back now.

Thanks gav, I saw those. Unfortunately I want to cover in black leather. Wish we could find someone who needs Brown and I will buy their old seats.

Hi I am after a pair of seats from 240z or 260z. I wull recover them if they are torn regards Ben (Brisbane)