Bobby

I have a brand new unused brake master cylinder. After buying this one I decided to get my original one restored. It is standard 7/8" bore. Part No on the box is IBS-JB1133. I live in Newcastle NSW. I still have the original receipt for $137.50. I am happy to pay for post if I can get $100. Please note I will not be home from this Sunday 5th Feb through to the 3rd of March.

Hello Giles, Do you have an original radio that works?

Thanks GongZ, I have bought and fitted a rubber cap like you are referring to to the 3/4" outlet on the cold water return nozzle and also a 1/2" BSP brass plug in the rear of the head. So that was another job out of the way. You know I bought this car at the end of May and it was driven into my shed(under its own power) and hasn't moved since. And all I have been doing is tidying up the engine bay. And I am retired so I don't know how you would restore one if you worked. Ah well I am getting close to starting it again.

Hello Linton now you are confusing me. I have only ever seen the green listed as 40 and the black listed as 80 amps.(The website that GongZ had the link to plus others I have seen) So the fact that the brown wire is 0.3 sqmm (the smallest of the 3) you would expect it to be 25 or 30 as GongZ had suggested. At the end of the day the only time you should ever blow one of these would be through a major event such as a crash severing wires. The fuses are all designed to protect the individual circuits. Do you mind if I ask what you used to replace your fusible links? Thanks again for your time and patience with me.

Thanks to both Linton and GongZ. My car did not have a cover over the black and green and the one that should be brown just has a bit of blue wire soldered in. I feel you are both on the mark with the brown fusible link being 25 or 30 amps as it is the smallest wire. Everything I have read says the green is 40 and the black is 80.(whereas Linton says the black is 60) I wrote to ZCar Depot in America but they didn't seem to know as all they did was refer me to the fusible links they sell which do not have any amp rating.

Linton, thanks very much for that. Am I correct in saying the brown is 30amp, the green is 40 amp and the black is 60 amp? Where did you find that info?

After much searching on the internet I have found many conflicting figures for the correct amp ratings for my "fusible links." My workshop manual says I have three and the colours are Brown , Green and Black. My car still has the black and green ones but where the brown should be a piece of blue wire has been soldered in The workshop manual also gives the wire area as Black = 1.25 sq.mm, Green= 0.5 sq.mm Brown= 0.3 sq.mm I have seen where some people say that red and brown are the same but I have seen red listed as 0.69 sq.mm so they can't be the same. Does anyone know for sure(not guessing or told by a mate) what the correct amp ratings are for these fusible links? I wish to replace my ugly/distorted housing with the black and green links and put in three modern units with the correct rating fuses. Thanks.

Thanks to all those people who tried to help. Today I rang Stewart Wilkins and he said yes it is okay to fit a plug at the rear of the head and delete the hose. As I had said I thought and also "old retired Z fart" thought if the heater was not turned on there would be no flow into that fitting on the rear of the head. So Stewart has confirmed what we thought. I have noticed that ZCAR Depot in America sell a cap to plug off the 3/4" outlet on the cold water inlet into the engine.

Thanks for the feedback. My car has triple Webers and no heater so the sketch provided by Skipz doesn't really answer my situation. I have seen pictures of some cars with the heater valve half way along the hose I wish to remove so with these I would assume that if the heater was not on there would be no flow into that fitting on the back of the head. I was hoping someone has removed this hose on their car and can confirm it will not cause any damage. Thanks again to all who take the time to try and help an old fart.

The car I bought does not have a working heater and the previous owner had a hose running from the inlet that is just above the alternator to the fitting just below No6 spark plug. My question ---- is this hose necessary or can I fit a plug in the head and a cap where the 3/4" hose comes off the inlet just above the alternator. Thanks.

I am after the clip that holds the bonnet stay from rattling around when it is in the down position. I am not sure how they are normally attached to the radiator support panel as my car never had one when I bought it. If anyone has a spare one I would appreciate it. I need it posted to Maitland (near Newcastle) so need a price for item plus postage. Or if someone could tell me what else is normally used that looks reasonably factory looking and where to buy. Thanks.

Once again I must thank everyone for their valuable input. When I bought the car the previous owner commented how difficult it was to get the roll cage in so I said I would just cut it in half with a hacksaw to which he replied "don't do that it's worth $1500." So I went to a lot of trouble and cursing to get it out without damaging it or the car. So from his comment I assumed it was worth a fair bit so that is why I originally asked for some input on price as I had no idea. Also I did not intend to cause any trouble by not having a price and I apologize for that. This morning I put both the roll cage and seat belts on ebay but from all of the comments it looks like I am dreaming as I asked $500 for the cage.

Hello 44014. Thanks for the offer but to be honest I was hoping for more than that. The previous owner said he paid 15 times that.

I have for sale a Brown Davis aluminium roll cage that was in my 260Z when I bought it and also a pair of RPM racing harness's complete with all of the attachment eye bolts. Not sure what they are worth so if someone who is not interested in buying but knows what they are worth can suggest what I should be asking then I would appreciate the advice. I live near Newcastle in NSW.

Hello to all who tried to help me. I have bought a 1976 260Z. It is not a show car but was on club rego so it is something I can drive and fiddle with. It has a Brown Davis aluminium roll bar in the back that I would like to sell and also an oil catch can and a spoiler on the front that I would like to sell as well . Could someone explain step by step how do I put photos in this reply box so I can show what I have for sale.

To dat2Kman thanks very much for the offer of your fully restored 240 but I am not prepared to spend that much. I fully understand that you have probably spent that much or more but I am retired so have to be carefull.

Hello and thanks again for all the advice. GAV240Z above mentions three cars on Carsales. I have been watching Carsales probably twice/day looking. I did enquire about the Silver race car but it went very quickly and the others don't appeal to me. I also watch my105, Unique cars and Justauto and of course this website. I would like a matching number engine. I have noticed some adds that say it has a different engine but the original engine is included in the sale. That's okay. Also when I was at Issac Smiths place he had a nice original auto and I noticed on one of the data plates under the bonnet it said "automatic" so I do not want to convert an auto into a manual. My wife often tells me I am a pain so I guess you can see why.

Hello again. Thanks to everyone for advice. When I was at Issac Smiths place he had a couple of cars that were in need of a lot of attention. He admitted they were not the car for me. I am after something that is registered or could be with a little bit of work. I don't mind taking it off the road every now and then for work/repairs but I want to enjoy drives in it. Could someone tell me what The letters PM mean in replies to questions on forums? One of the replies above mentions I should state a price I am prepared to pay. That is difficult-I suppose it all depends. A couple of months ago there was a pretty neat looking red targa car in Adelaide for $40,000. That would have been as high as I would go. Only yesterday a silver and black racing car appeared on carsales for $29,000 but it has gone already.

Hello, My name is Robert from Newcastle. I am 66 and retired and after a car to tinker/fiddle/do up that when I eventually sell it then I will hopefully have not lost a lot. I can do all mechanical work myself but I can't cut out rust or do painting so am after a car with a fairly good body. I recently spent some time with Issac Smith in Sydney and he took me for a run in one of his cars. I was most impressed. I am after a two seater, manual car with the original engine and preferably still in the original colour. Does not matter if the motor/gearbox/diff. need work. I have a friend who has a 260Z that he has been working on for twelve years and it is still not on the road. I am not interested in doing that at my age.